There is/was nothing heated in anything I said, and our debates/discussions have nothing to do with how I feel about you as a person. What I'm saying now is in a purely conversational tone. I've always been able to remain focused on a topic w/o making it a personal issue. I simply often find you in error on many of the more technical subjects you choose to freely offer advice on, and on many other issues as well, though I never comment or disagree unless I feel the advice offered has the potential to diminish some one's growing experience should they pursue the course you advise, or unless I think it will mislead them into believing something that isn't so. I always offer a very thorough and polite explanation of why I don't agree and offer an alternate approach that I feel IS sound and backed by science and sound horticultural information and techniques. Instead of always pointing the finger at me, as though it was my fault a disagreement arose, it could easily be made a nonissue if you would openly discuss the issues at hand when you or your advice are questioned. I'm always ready to explain the hows and whys of ANY advice or observations I offer, and whenever I press you on an issue we disagree on, you always introduce a wide variety of other topics that have no bearing on the subject. I try very hard to pin you down to one topic, so the people listening in can fairly consider the advice and evaluate it, but it never works. Personally, I hold myself to the standard that if I'm not thoroughly familiar with the topic being discussed and cannot back everything I say with facts and science, I choose to remain silent. I don't question you because I find it fun, or because I have an ax to grind, I question you because some of the things you say don't fit with what we know to be horticulturally sound. I'm really sorry about that, but I think we have an obligation to directly address the issues when others question us, and to provide reliable information. You have to be fair and admit that what one person thinks is reliable may not actually be reliable. It's how you/we/I support what we say that helps others determine that. If I offer something that doesn't agree with what you said, and you simply restate the same information you initially stated without offering additional support, or try to offer information that doesn't really support your position, it perpetuates the disagreement. For myself, I've found that always operating within the limits of my knowledge saves a lot of disagreements, so that's how I operate. I know that if I stray beyond the bounds of my knowledge, I'm going to get called on it. That's one of the reasons I usually refrain from discussing or trying to identify specific insect infestations. I realize there are others on the forum who are much better qualified, and I defer to them instead of arguing with them. There is a lesson to be learned in that. If we are not qualified to discuss a topic in depth, or if we're unable to field the questions put to us because others doubt, and someone who is familiar with the topic happens to disagree with something we said, before we reply we should examine closely if we have our ducks in a row. If we don't, the wisest course is silence or deference. You mentioned our discussions going back years. I remember them, and they arose for the same reasons almost all our discussions presently arise. I have a good memory, Toni, and I see you today, offering advice on a regular basis that we argued vehemently about years ago, and I'm not the one who has changed my perspectives. No one wants to rob anyone of the right to offer an opinion, but opinions don't come with credibility included. That has to be earned and it comes as a result of how we demonstrate a command of the topic at hand. I invite anyone who wishes to question anything I say to disagree or challenge it, directly, and I'll answer directly to the best of my ability and let the chips fall where they might; but if all I were to do is obfuscate and try to cover my tracks, I'd be destroying my credibility, and I can't blame that on anyone. I'm perfectly willing to let the pH thing go. I think I made a case that demonstrates that I know what I'm talking about, and I answered JJs questions. I didn't have to look anything up because I understand the relationship between pH, alkalinity, nutrient availability ..... and how to manage pH in containers (I've been helping people manage pH on the container forum for years), so I'm well-able to portend tomorrow's effects based on today's advice in this area. I really don't mind if you still wish to debate. No one has been uncivil, and others can learn much from disagreement. All I would ask, if you choose to continue the debate, is that you remain on topic, which I think is always a fair request. Al

I don't think the cuttings will root. I am not positive, for absolute sure they won't, so you could try rooting them. Recut the stems, dip in hormone powder, and stick in a medium of your choice. I would probably use peat/perlite/ and a little sand, kept damp. And I would think you would want to keep it warm. (I am not sure of that either.) I really do not think they will root, but if they do, I would appreciate you letting us know about it. I am always happy to learn. Good luck. Janie

Fire prevention : Although heat from bulbs aren't the best fire starting culprits ( they don't flash enough heat fast enough) the heat from them is better controlled with the use of a low speed fan. I follow a simple idea of if the lights are on the fan is on it allows no worries for as long as 16 hours of burning time from bulbs home or not (and no house fire to date) fan(s), timer(s), three plug to one plug divider(s), one or more surge protecting power strips are things to have on hand) Also note that for the amount of time(s) bulbs need to burn for most succulents such constant heat would result in nothing more than burnt plants and show false watering tells with out any fan at all. No air plus all heat = rotted burnt plant over at the very least dried shriveled leaves Pet idea ( not that I have any pets to help me with my plants but) If your using shelving & inside you can also rig up a form of a pet guide to help keep pets from being the kind helpers that they are. IE Secure a mesh sun screen with solid wire to hold it in place or a more solid chicken wire (or something of that nature) to the outer sides of racking to provide a small barrier / deterrent.

Looking good there. Just remember the non cacti/succs will need more frequent watering/feeding than if they were in regular compost, but as I've only ever used it for c/s I can't really comment other than that. Gill UK