If they are Cheerfulness: they prefer a deep and even heavy soil that holds cool and damp over the summer. They also tend to 'dig deep' with their bulbs and the bulbs grow to a fair size. They are well-insulated against above ground temperatures by this depth. Agree with calistoga - no chilling required. They quite like the occasional topdressing of old compost with some added blood and bone, or bone-dust (If you don't have wandering creatures such as dogs) and the clumps can stay undivided for years, unlike some others. They usually start into root growth in late summer, though they won't show above ground for a while to come. The leaves are usually a dark green, rather than the blue-green of many of the other types, and they last for much longer (probably until your May-June) but are usually gone before the worst heat of summer. Can you give them a half day of sun - preferably morning? If your spring season tends be be short and you're into full summer fury before the leaves have gone you could give them a touch of shade by moving a container to cast shade or using a sun sail, or similar. It would be worth the experiment to see how well they actually can cope with summer temps while they're still in leaf before you provide protection. The other thing you could try is to feed them with tomato food while they're in full leaf as the extra potash might be what they need to set the coming season's flower buds deep in the bulb. And check your soil's pH level. They are tolerant of fairly acidic soil but may appreciate a touch of lime.

The roots of the lilac may well be alive. I'd remove all the honeysuckle and cut back the lilac. Keep it watered and throw down some lime, which they love. Fertilize in the spring--it's a little late now. Be vigilant about the honeysuckle returning and I bet your lilac throws out new growth. These are hard to kill.

1. No, it's not too late. I'm in zone 5b and I just started my slow-to-germinate Bhut Jolokias a couple of days ago. I'll start all of my annuum varieties in another couple of weeks. 2. Get your soil tested. If putting stuff in the ground is the start of your problems, them getting the soil tested is the start of your solution. In my area, I send my soil samples up to University of Connecticut (Go Huskies!) and they charge $8 per sample. Well worth it. Most soil test labs also tell you what to add and how much. 3. Don't put the peppers in the ground too early. Night temperatures should be above 50F (10C) before you set them out. It also helps a LOT to warm the soil by putting down plastic mulch. Peppers can take care of themselves pretty well, but they hate cold or wet feet. 4. If you are industrious, you can extend the season by building a little hoop house over your plants. This also gives them a great head start. I built one about 20 feet long and 4 fet high for less than $40. One of these days, I'll write up the plans and offer them for free on this site.

justin_linker , OK don't anyone throw toms at me :-)) I would try it. Take your tom and pepper seeds and put them in a glass of warm water 24 hours. Then put the seeds on wet paper towel in a zip bag. Keep them warm. If you have a gas stove with a pilot light in the oven keep them in there with a BIG note on the door so you do not cook them. Check them everyday for roots. When you see roots put them in very moist seed starting mix (NOT jiffy pellets) -- keep the seed mix moist but not wet. Put the whole thing back in the oven and check every day until you see green sprouts as soon as you see sprouts put them under lights or in a really sunny window. I just did this with Jimmy Nardello pepper seeds and from start to seedling leaf stage took me 8 days. I used seed starting heat mat not gas oven. I do have them under shoplights on seed starting heat mat. I keep the seed heat mat on 24/7 and the lights on 16 hours a day. I expect to plant them out in a protected 2-liter soda bottle greenhouse in 2 weeks. Will it work?? Do not know never did this before. *Why no jiffy pellets?? I find seedling leaf are better able to sprout in seed starting mix and that may save you several days IMHO. *No gas oven with pilot light?? Put them on top of the fridge if it is warm up there. The seeds on wet paper in zip bag must be kept at least 70 degrees IMHO. *Protected soda bottle - cut bottom from a green 2-liter soda bottle and punch the entire bottle with holes for air. Put this over plant and keep in a slightly shaded area for few days until plant is large enough to uncover. As we do not know what part of North Carolina you are in - can't really tell if you will have enough time. I am in Central Virginia and I fully expect Jimmy Nardello peppers in August my first frost is usually not until first part of Novermber. If you are in Central or Southern NC you should give it a try - it is only May 16 today! DL (who likes to experiment)