Who knew it's this hard to be an organic fruit grower?! (Home garden)
7 years ago
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What Dissuades Or Discourages New Fruit Growers
Comments (42)I wish I could be so optimistic. I have driven and ridden scores of thousands of miles in SC's countryside for nearly a third-century and all the while with more than a casual interest in fruiting plants. This was all over the state with only a few exceptions. Added to the rural through-roads and side roads, of the past two years I have driven an intensive few thousand miles on small country roads and dirt roads. I also deal with rural people not rarely (regarding unrelated problems) and I talk to county agents or staff in several counties or regions. I see some muscadines and figs, some scattered pears, occasional blueberries and plums, and the rare apple (probably far more common in the mountains and higher piedmont). Pecans are pretty plentiful though, and very occasionally a chestnut is seen. I probably wouldn't notice scattered blackberries, but would see a row. I might miss a small plot of strawberries. Big rural yards often have their fruit bushes and trees in the wide front or side expanses where it is possible for me to see them. City people are more backyard oriented. Commercially I see peaches, pecans, muscadines, apples (upstate only),strawberries, blueberries, pecans, and even one chestnut grove and one kiwi vineyard. The evidence that these can be grown here is there for all to see. A few people make jelly from the ornamental jelly plam (Butia), many banana plants are grown for ornamentals but few for fruit, loquat fruit from the common ornamentals are eaten by some, as are ginkgo nuts. I could hardly miss Japanese persimmons when fruiting in the fall but these are so rarely seen I off hand can't remember a one but my own. And what could be easier and more trouble-free to grow? I have seen fruiting cold hardy citrus, but very few. They may however be far more common near the coast. I just don't see the interest directly. The only counter-argument that is starkly obvious is that thousands of fruit plants are sold each year by the various nurseries and some of them actually are appropriate and have a reasonable chance to live (muscadines, rabbiteye blueberries, figs, a few of the pear selections, a few plums, pecans including rarely a good selection, and blackberries). Most others are doomed. Doomed peaches probably kill a lot of potential later interest....See MoreHow hard is it to grow fruit trees organically?
Comments (6)'m not sure where on GW to post this... so I'll start here since my hope to is to do my yard 100% organic. Then do it. I have read your posts here and on the container forum so I get where you are coming from. I can't say I completely agree with you in terms of your priorities, but that really doesn't matter. Your priorities are yours and mine are mine and there is no sense in quarrelling over them. Anyway, after some preliminary searches here, there's so much talk about footies and bugs and critters and molds and funguses and so on... I'm not sure i'm up for it all yet. LOL The problems get a lot of attention. Those who have success stories don't. You mentioned that you used to have a plum tree that did well with no interference from you. If you search the forums you will find posts by others growing plums that have experienced every kind of problem known to human kind. Problems get more attention and can skew your understanding of what it takes to do well with a plant if you place too much attention on those problems. I am not saying to ignore sound horticultural knowledge, just that on the net there are too many postings, many of them painting dire pictures of all sorts of problems to take seriously. Pears are one of the easiest fruit trees for me to grow without chemicals, but that is largely because they have only a few really serious problems that would make a life or death difference in my area. You kind of have to get to know your area to know what will work and what will not given the limitations you are imposing upon yourself. If fire blight is a real problem then you have one set of considerations and if it isn't then you don't have to worry about them. There are a number of serious pests/diseases regardless of where you are. Living in Wisconsin I can't do much to help you grow stuff in your area. All I can do is tell you to not worry about any of it until you see it....See MoreInteresting info. for organic rose growers
Comments (15)When I checked the Roses Forum under "protect while spraying" I found these info: "From Henry Kuska, grower of over 1,000 roses from Ohio: Title: Combined exposure to endocrine disrupting pesticides impairs parturition, causes pup mortality and affects sexual differentiation in rats. Another one from Henry: "Retinal degeneration was two times more common in applicators who had used fungicides. Results were similar in North Carolina and Iowa." More from Henry: "It appears that the "hot U.S. fungicide spray of the month" is Bayer Advanced Disease Control for Roses - This is a tebuconazole based fungicide. It is being phased out in Europe, banned in the state of New York, and not available for garden use in Canada. The concern is especially directed towards fetuses and infants as they are particular susceptible to endocrine disrupting substances." I posted a thread entitled "Pics of fungal growth, corn meal, and Austin roses" in the Rose Forum detailing how I dusted my corn meal. Refined corn meal from Walmart did not work, throwing at the base of the bush did not work. Someone posted a good question "if corn meal is a good fungicide, would it harm the beneficial Mycorrhizal fungi?" For that reason I kept the corn meal on the leaves, rather than in the ground. For fungi control in the ground, I posted a thread "Suppression of pathogens and pests by soil bacteria" in the rose forum. It detailed how black spot fungi is suppressed by normal soil bacteria plus flora in horse manure. In contrast, mulching with tree bark in a wet climate encourages black spots, with 25 different varieties of fungi in decayed wood, particularly artillery fungus, or shotgun fungus. Since WHOLE-GRAIN corn meal works best with the fat in the germ layer, I used a flour sifter to dust the lower 1/3 of the bush. I dusted August 1, September 1, September 17 (after 20+ hours of rain), and again in September in the midst of 5 days of rain. Only 4 dusting to get zero black spots on 10 Austins. Our first frost is soon to come in October, they keep all their leaves. The feed store doesn't sell corn meal, only cracked corn $5 for a giant bag (enough for a decade!). I used Nutrimill flour grinder to grind to dust. You can buy Arrowhead Mills or Bob's Mill whole-grain corn meal at the grocery store for $2 to $3 per bag. Health food stores have it....See MoreOrganic Insect Control in the Home Landscape
Comments (2)Hi Dawna, Thanks for the kind words. I just wanted to put together a little info sheet for everyone because the pests are so bad this year, and everyone has had a lot of questions. It sure has been raining a lot up your way. I hope all is well there. At least we aren't having to worry about wildfires or a hay shortage this year. Flooding, however, may be this summer's big issue. Dawn...See More- 7 years ago
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