Vine Borer?
7 years ago
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- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
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Squash Vine Borer Emergence for Cincinnati Ohio
Comments (21)Went to a seminar last year held at the Ohio State University's agricultural dept, and they shared the local (Columbus) results of a statewide study of SVB using row cover vs non-cover on standard zucchini planted successively several weeks apart. Results were that 100% of vines were affected. Interestingly, about 60% of affected vines continued to flourish. This was due to the fact that, depending on where the eggs were laid within the stem, the plant either did or did not continue to transport nourishment, due to the area/amount of vasculature affected. The preliminary recommendation (the study was ongoing) was to consider squash varietals that had a larger diameter base stem structure, because larger stems can accommodate the developing larvae AND still transport nourishment. (Of course, slitting the stem and destroying any larvae is always suggested.) This led me to consider some of the sturdier, asian winter-squash varieties that can be harvested earlier as summer squash. I'll try them this summer, but I'm a bit skeptical about how tasty they'll be. Still, better than sacrificing my crooknecks to the dang SVBs! Finally, - and it's purely anecdotal evidence - I have grown English Custard summer squash for the past 2 years and had zero evidence of SVB. These were plants growing 10 feet from the SVB-riddled zukes and crooknecks. Personally, I find the English Custard to be tastier that crookneck, AND they are really bizarre looking, which is alway a plus in my book ;-)!...See MoreRow Covers and Squash Vine Borers
Comments (3)+2 Sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings, but the bad news is: if you had borers in that bed last year, consider the soil in that area infested - because it probably is. In that case, moths will emerge from beneath the cover, rendering it useless. Or worse than useless, since the moths will be trapped long enough to infect all plants under the cover... which is probably what happened. As for the plants already infected; while it is possible to cut out the grubs & save the plant, success is far from a sure thing - and you don't want even more pupae getting into your soil. Personally, I would recommend pulling all of those plants, and destroying them in such a way as to kill the larvae. Then plant something else in that space next year, which should get rid of any larvae already in the soil. I agree with Gumby, regarding the apparent looseness of the row cover. It must be tightly sealed to be effective. The best way is to bury all of the edges....See Morevine borer on pumpkin plant?
Comments (3)Yes the new roots will make a big difference and will be very helpful. They might be enough all on their own and they might not - it depends on where the roots are and where the caterpillars are. And yes injected BT works, if and only if you inject it into the right spot so that it gets to the caterpillars. If you inject it where they've already been past and eaten their way through the vine, nothing happens. BT is considered organic and there is no damage done from eating pumpkins from plants previously injected, however it is of course your choice to make. Some gardeners will also split the vines looking for the caterpillars and then wrap the vines to heal over after the caterpillars are gone, but that of course is also risky....See More"Trap Cropping" with Blue Hubbard Squash against squash vine borers???
Comments (16)I just planted some summer squash seedlings and there are a few more I want to plant. Early in June I planted a few Blue Hubbard and Baby Blue Hubbard seedlings. I put some yellow and blue sticky traps close to the ground around these. And sprayed the Blue Hubbards with a systemic insecticide about a week ago. I caught a squash vine borer on the yellow sticky trap: Two days in a row I saw 2 more SVB adults and they were hovering over the Hubbards trying to land. I did not see any eggs on any plants. (But that maybe just me.) And I did not catch anymore on the sticky traps. The Hubbards really are very attractive to these moths. I see them inextricably drawn to the Hubbards. I dont think they are in my garden because of the hubbards. I think they would have passed by and got to my other squash. Once here, they find the hubbards irresistible. So far so good. I dont have any damage yet. Its a lot of vigilance I put up though. And I am removing any flower buds that appear from the trap crops because they have been sprayed with an insecticide. As an aside I want to mention that the sticky traps have been like magic for me. First I was getting leaf miners on my chard that were just decimating every leaf. I put up these at each end of the rows and the leaf miners have gone down by 90%. They are also catching mosquitoes and flies. The yellow ones catch the most insects. The blue catches fewer but different insects. These may be worth a try if you are getting riddled by noxious insects....See More- 7 years ago
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Peter (6b SE NY)