the crepe myrtles will most likely die back to the ground then come back, more of a shrub if you think about it, but a nice thing to have.

cornus kousa is hardy to zone 5

as well as:

cornus kousa 'satomi'

Paulownia tomentosa

Acer saccharum

if you want more I can add to this list

Check and see if Paulownia tomentosa is listed as an invasive weed not to be planted on your area. You may be in a cold enough zone.

We're constantly hearing from GardenWeb members about various types of crApe myrtles not making it in solidly zone 6 areas. The specific cultivar definitely makes a difference, but a great many crApe myrtle cultivars just aren't reliable in zone 6, even as die-back shrubs. Most reports that I see suggest that the die-back-but-survive range is about one full zone, at most.

Besides that, and as NHBabs alluded to, a small die-back shrub (woody herbaceous perennial) is probably not what Susan was wanting.

_____________________________________

"I've seen the...expression "limbed up" a couple of times. What does that mean?"

Limbing up means to remove the lower limbs of a tree or shrub. This is done for various reasons, including to allow physical access (like the ability to mow under the tree), to let in more light under the tree (so plants that might not do well in heavy shade can be grown under the tree), and for aesthetic reasons.

Crepe Myrtle is ridiculous advice to give someone asking for a tree to plant in zone 5.

Redbud is tricky. The wild versions grow in your area, but the fancy cultivars tend to be less tolerant of hard winters. Would work better if you could get a volunteer from someone's yard or buy from a native plant society that uses local seed sources,.

Dogwood is a decent suggestion.

What about american mountain ash? Cold tolerant and pretty, if short lived,. Canadian serviceberry? More of a shrub, though. Or tulip poplar? Gorgeous fast growing native, although possibly a bit big.

As I always do, I recommend you-OP- decide what size and shape of tree you want in a given location, long before breaking things down to this or that species, let alone cultivar. So, in this example, is it a "shade tree" you desire...that is, a large-growing, probably deciduous broadleaved tree? Is it a large-growing conifer, with its likely conical shape? Is it a smaller-growing ornamental tree of some type? These are the preliminary questions. All else should follow, only once these questions have been answered.

To immediately jump to specific tree types, let alone specific cultivars, is bass ackwards, according to me and just about every legitimate design professional in the world. Not saying I'm one ( legitimate designer), but I can function in that capacity if called to. You want to answer the big questions first, not what kind of bark a plant has or some such minutia.

How large a tree? All the trees recommended are small trees except for the Sugar Maple and Tulip Poplar (which are both very large).

Crepe Myrtles are a waste of time if you can even find one for sale. Ditto for Paulownia.

Kousa Dogwood will do well. Flowering Dogwood is trickier (unless you can find someone selling the SW Ontario natives). Cornus 'Venus' is lovely and is hardy.

A plain Redbud will be fine but not the red or gold leafed varieties.

Magnolia? Lots to choose from.

Japanese Maple 'Bloodgood', Korean Maple, Manchurian Striped Maple

Ivory Silk tree lilac

"Pro" might be a generous description in this case as the 'pro' in question sells yard art at a farmers market. And a selection of what looks to be home raised plants which tend to be heavily weighted towards NC invasive species, like Russian olive, Nandina domestica and Paulownia tomentosa.

Apparently all it takes to be a pro on Houzz is to sign up as one.

Remember she doesn't want fruit. Mountain Ash & dogwoods, etc. all have berries.

I would go with the standout Acer griseum which is very popular among people on these forums who have taste for beautiful trees that really aren't known to common homeowners. At the same rate, it takes a substantial planting of (3) trees to produce filled seed. So, a single Acer griseum will produce seed, however the seed will not produce offspring, that is, unless several/many are planted in your area.

Korean maple/Acer pseudosieboldianum is another excellent choice as are magnolias; so is redbud.

Paperbark will get going much-much faster than Korean maple, however . . . and will probably do the job Susan needs.

Acer triflorum is another great maple that's related to Paperbark maple and would do an excellent job, too. It has the same requirements of multiple specimens to produce filled seed. It and paperbark in combination will hybridize and produce filled seed, but again, I believe it is going to be rare that several neighbors of hers will have these trees.

Definitely a lengthy answer on my part, but, I wanted to add details that most of us are aware of, however that Susan likely isn't. And to be quite honest my impression is that the tree is to be planted between her shed and her home, but, I can't be sure with the limited information provided. Susan it would be very easy for you to take a photo and mark an X where the tree is to go.

Dax

gardener365, who grows dogwoods for the berries? they are usually used as ornamental trees. Tulip Poplar would be a good idea for a shade tree.

what about:

Prunus yedoensis (this is an ORNAMENTAL cherry)

Pinus parviflora

Quercus phellos

Nyssa sylvatica

gingko biloba (fruitless variety)

Acer Platanoides

Acer Platanoides 'Royal Red'

see what you think of these, I still have more to list.

I think some of the comments above, referring to Caldwell H&G, may be a little over the top (or, overly aggressive?). Everyone here gives advice, at some time or other, that many others may not agree with. That doesn't make the advisor a bad person, and neither does signing up as a GW "pro". I think, if anything, GW's way of providing the "pro" label without proper caveats may be a little bit of a problem here. Just because someone makes money from a trade, doesn't mean they are claiming to be an expert in the field. There's nothing wrong with pointing out areas of disagreement or concern, but let's don't get personal. Give Caldwell a break.

I really like nyssa sylvatica also

just to clear it up, Houzz has to approve you to be a pro after you signup, I waited for like a week

American Beech? Musclewood? Basswood?

" GW's way of providing the "pro" label without proper caveats may be a little bit of a problem here."

And furthermore a lot of "pro" advice is just bad advice. Some nursery workers are obviously "professionals" in the sense they derive their livelihood and sustenance from a salary in that industry, but they can, for example, recommend you buy fertilizer for your newly planted tree. Which is a terrible recommendation in most cases, and certainly in the case I recently dealt with. It's not like this was an orange tree on Florida sand. (relative bought an already very expensive tree from a fancy Philly area nursery)

Generally speaking I feel like we are entering the age of the idiocracy, but please don't get me started! I don't even need to mention politics, so let's not go there. An IT/professional services company in the DC area I formerly worked for has a recruiter sending out emails with gross, glaring grammatical errors...as though she thought she was sending texts to her friends and not professional messages to potential employees. Such nonsense would have been inconceivable 10 years ago.

My wife occasionally receives a Phalanopsis or other relatively "easy" orchid as a gift. The "pro" literature that comes with these items says to place an ice cube in the pot once a week. Hey, I'm no orchid expert but I do at least know this is not how orchids are best handled, insofar as watering is concerned. I told her when she got rid of a dead one that those instructions are of a kind with the tags sold with nearly all potted nursery stock; You've all seen this: "Dig the hole as deep as the plant was grown in the pot", or "Loosen the soil for 6 inches at the bottom of the hole".....the list goes on in these "professional" tags. And of course, as most of us here do know, it's all nonsense.

Caldwell, she doesn't want berries. That doesn't mean she was going to eat them. Maybe just maybe she doesn't want any additional fauna attractions.

Let's agree on something, berries are a part of the written premise. And I will no-longer further discuss this issue.

I'm not mad but you touched a nerve with me, and I'd like to be your friend going forward.

Dax

"Ok sorry to have started a fight."

Not at all, this is just the way we are here! As for avian pooping I have to hasten to point out that birds have a way of landing or nesting in all trees, whether or not they provide food for them. I have a huge holly hedge next to my driveway, there's a brief period in early spring when the berries are quickly devoured by birds, and I've never noticed any more droppings on my car than usual, about 10 feet away.

^ I was going to say much the same. Where birds eat berries....and where birds poop out digested berries (and insects, and seeds, and....) are often two different places. Good luck with the poop-free yard idea!

They're tree in the background is a thornless honey locust. They get large Susan and quickly. The foliage though is not large, therefore it doesn't clog gutters so readily.

I'm going to stand by my suggestion that an Acer griseum (paperbark maple) is an ideal if not excellent choice. Furthermore, you're going to very happy that you planted it when it becomes older and you see the bark throughout all seasons.

This is one I planted that was a "stick" in a 5-gallon pot and 5' tall when planted in 2002-2003. It had a couple wimpy branches at the tip, and the whole thing was 2" or less in diameter. This is 10-years later:

And its' bark after 10-years:

Plus, brilliant, bright red, fall color. They're magnificent trees a medium size location such as one you show.

Caldwell, appreciate the like above! We cool man, we cool :-)
Dax

yes, gardener365 has a good idea with the paperbark maple. Paperbark maple would work good in the spot. alsoacer platanoides 'crimson king' oracer platanoides 'royal red'. just wanted to add a little bit more ideas, I actually like the paperbark maple.

I like paperbark maple as well. One of the hardier Cercis, redbuds would work. Ginkgo (be sure to get a male to avoid fruit.) All are lovely trees IME.

You want a lollipop, buy a single stem/trunk tree. Paperbark maples are sold multi-stemmed from the base and as solitary trunk specimens. Both will achieve a rounded canopy but a multi-stemmed tree will take up more space in relation to people moving around, kids with bikes :) all that type of stuff; however, you may want to look at images for your own preference.

Dax

It would be nice if you could bring it in 15'. If you cannot, 10' is pretty well, minimum.

Dax

150-200 at a nursery.

Edit: A Canadian nurseryman has a last name of Dannaher. His first name is Darren. I'm not sure of his location in Canada. Let me try to find that for you.

Dax

It's Whistling Gardens & he's located in Wilsonville, Ontario.

Whistling Gardens

Dax

He has these sizes and prices but call ahead if that's where you're going. Not to mention he has an incredible botanic garden.

Paperbark Maple Zone 5

Acer griseum

#7

$160.00

Acer griseum

#10

$240.00

Dax

Susan, not sure if you are an amateur gardener or not but if you've never planted container stock before, make sure you know what you are doing and correctly break up the root mass. I wouldn't want your $240 investment to go south in a few years due to neglecting that step.

Looks great, Susan. Excellent price.

Her link didn't open for me but here it is:

Paperbark maple at Ontario Plant Source

Dax

May be a Birch ;)

Have a great day on your search. Definitely would like to see what/if any you bring home.

Ciao,

Dax

yes, I have been looking for some paperbark maples to collect seeds from. I have not seen any planted here around the caldwell county area.

Have you had success germinating Acer griseum seeds? Germination rates are supposedly extremely low. I have never tried.

I was once told that (3) trees is pretty well necessary for filled seed. Apparently, (2) trees still makes a lot of blanks.

That tree I showed above I thought I'd cut seeds open one day and every one was empty. Of course, there are no other trifoliate maples near it.

Another occasion I was at an arboretum where a solitary Acer triflorum was just loaded. I collected something like an entire plastic grocery bag full. I got home and got to cutting them and they were all empty. Upon looking at the arboretum's plant list, there also were no other maples in the trifoliate group to pollinate one another.

I'm looking toward the day that my own collection of trifoliate maples produces filled seed. Mine will be hybrids of griseum, triflorum, and x'Cinnamon Flake'. In 2008 Planted (3) griseum plugs from Heritage seedlings that must have been a foot tall. This year I have seed on two of them, for the first time. Just a few.

They're probably 4.5' tall; the two with the seed on them. The other is in a damp area with not very good soil and hasn't grown like the others. My x 'Cinnamon Flake' is a new plantings as is my A.triflorum.

Patience is the key for growing these from seed. That double dormancy I believe they need is time consuming. The rest should be easy ..... I would guess.

Dax

ok, I am not experienced with those types of maples. I usually just grow the native Sugar maples, red maples, and silver maples. I do have some japanese maple 'bloodgood'.

If you get into grafting or maybe you already are, Caldwell, Acer saccharum is a great rootstock for trifoliate maples. Gotta graft them low though or the difference in bark will look very amateurish.

Dax

As many of us would have suspected: most likely a River birch, Betula nigra.

I'm
not following your point Susan, but plant what you wish. If I was
choosing, it would be Paperpark maple 50 to 1 over River birch or some other exfoliating Birch. I'll give someone else the opportunity to tell you many of the downsides of Birches.

Until another time, be well.

Dax

Don't let killing a few get to you. I have killed quite a few lol.

Its the ones which linger on which I "should" replace which I regret now.

River Birch have very few problems...you're thinking of Paper Birch which does have problems.

I know smivies. I was just tired.

Dax

...and even paper birch constantly gets an unwarranted and undeserved rap for "having problems". No, it's a lusty, fast-growing early-succession species which asks for little other than full sun and moist soil. Easy as pie, but if you have a stressed-out specimen and you're in the home range of BBB-bronze birch borer-a native insect pest of some birch, your tree could suffer. But the fact it's already predisposed to trouble via being stressed out indicates mistakes on the part of the grower/owner, not an intrinsic problem with the tree itself.

Well stated Tom.

Enjoy your Paperbark maple, Susan.

I hope to see pictures someday.

Signing off until then,

Dax