Hi! I’m sure someone can help me! This tree was full and beautiful. Then I gave it new soil and I think it was over fertilized! From the bottom to about half way up, the leaves turned brown and fell off including the stems. Top I saved somehow. Does anyone know how to get the mid-section to grow back or should I just cut it back down and start over? I cut the second stem a few days ago and waiting for it to bud! What’s the guarantee it will grow back? Help! We’ve had this tree some 2007!

Um ... not to knock the Master Gardeners on this forum. But, the Master Gardener program does not necessarily produce experts. People do learn a lot of useful stuff in the program, but no one knows everything, and nothing beats both training AND experience. The Master Gardener program produces knowledgeable amateur gardeners who are willing to share what they've been taught by Extension agents from land grant universities. They help to dispel the myriads of gardening myths and legends that have no scientific basis, but my own experience with master gardeners over the years has not been very impressive, as far as getting correct information on gardening problems. Hit and miss. Point being: just 'cause the person saying so is a Master Gardener, doesn't make it so. And even when something may be so 95% of the time, doesn't mean it's so in this specific instance in your specific garden. Nature is complex, and our brains are puny in comparison. "most fungi are species specific". I do not know what that means. Hm. Yes, fungi come in species, but I doubt that's what was meant. Was the person talking about saprophytic fungi, or pathogenic fungi? Saprophytes are not necessarily host species specific. Some are, but others don't care where the organic matter they're feeding on came from. Pathogenic fungi vary in their degree of host specificity. A few are very specific, having been found causing disease on only one or two species of host plants. Phytophthora lateralis comes to mind. Causes Port Orford cedar root rot. Others have host species numbering in the hundreds or even thousands, such as Phytophthora cinnamomi, a globally distributed agricultural and forestry pest. Armillaria mellea (oak root fungus, armillaria root rot) also attacks just about anything. A saprophytic and pathogenic fungus, but does not cause disease on everything it eats. Some species of hosts are more susceptible than others. Roses are very susceptible. There's been some speculation that so-called Rose Replant Disease is caused by saprophytic fungi breaking down the dead roots from the previous rose, creating a toxic environment, but it's just speculation so far. Another hypothesis is that the decaying roots of the previous rose put out toxic chemicals. Again, just speculation so far. Either one may be true sometimes, but neither one has so far been proven true to my knowledge. I often replant in the same hole, and only rarely have a problem doing so. My own experience (25 years worth) has been similar to Patricia's. If the previous rose died for some reason, and that reason is still there, then it will kill the next rose too. Armillaria root rot is common in California. Roses are very susceptible. Roses replanted where armillaria killed the previous rose will die pretty quickly. As in, within a year or two. Not within weeks. Patience, my friend! I'd be hesitant to move a bare root rose that's just starting to grow, especially this late in the SoCal spring. (Here, sure. We're still getting snow flurries up here, no danger of the rose drying out when its roots are disturbed.) You can also help it out by hilling it, or piling dirt up around it, to insulate the canes and new sprouts from drying out. A good practice whenever planting bare roots in your area, as your springs come on fast and hot and dry. Carefully remove the dirt once you see good strong new growth emerging.

Seil I lifted it up and added soil underneath and then put it back into the hole. Its raised up a bit more now and looks good. I have another question for you. Another rose I planted near this one at the same time now has a couple of yellow leaves. The others I planted along the same flower bed are looking nice and green and already showing new growth. This one in particular is called the Just Joey. The soil is still pretty wet from a couple of days of heavy rain so i doubt its thirsty. Could these just be older leaves getting ready to drop? There are no spots or lines. The leaves are just yellowing as if they are old. These are all own-root about 6 inches tall. Just this one is not looking as good as the others. Am I just over reacting? Is this normal in such a young plant?

According to the Royal Horticultural Society here, and I take it they would be up to date on the issue... ''It is believed to be caused by a build-up of soil pests and pathogens during the life of the first planting. Fungal root diseases and nematodes (eelworms) are favourite suspects.... ...........The best evidence in favour of this theory is that the problem is eliminated by soil sterilisation, suggesting a biological cause.'' ...it's not a huge problem for us home gardeners as we have several work arounds, already described, if we are vigilant enough... although I've never tried the box route - never seem to have boxes handy... ..but for commercial growers, I notice around here where there are several rose fields in use, after digging them all up for sale in the autumn, they move to the next field which may be just across the road, for the following season, then another and another in following seasons. I'm not sure how many years pass before they return to a field previously used for this purpose. One thing I also agree with the RHS on is that if you plant a rose then after just a few months decide to remove it for whatever reason, and plant another in its place straight away, the 2nd rose can suffer replant disorder. I've found that to be the case too.