Some roses are faster to break dormancy than others. Some can take months to start actively growing. If you must move it, move it now, but be gentle as you risk harming any of the fine roots that are forming (just because you can't see it growing, doesn't mean that it isn't growing).

I agree with diane.
You should move it now if you must.
One other thing about ZD. I've heard many times from many sources that it is an extremely slow Rose to establish.
Good luck,
Chuck

You definitely need Pop Warner's book about a year in the rose garden. Why would you pull them out after only a month? I have had some take 10-12 weeks. Patience is a virtue. Roses are pricy.

Thx All, I guess I've just not seen bare roots take this long to do SOMETHING. I know patience, patience. I will look for that book. Does this tell you the finer points of what roses do what? Not knowing enough at this point for me is the problem. All you guys/gals have the wisdom that I'll someday have. I can be patient.

I guess it just scared me when I heard that you shouldn't put a new rose in a hole you took one out of. Those 2 are that situation and just thought that might be the reason. Thanks for putting up with me. I'm like a bad penny tho....

Piper, I love that book and I have had so much trouble finding it for rosegrowers to whom I would love to gift it, but it is so good about things like this about breaking dormancy, what to expect and not. I love Pop Warner anyway and when I found this book through ARS, I could not believe (after growing roses for years) how much I "needed to know." If you or anyone else finds it, please buy it and don't loan it to your friends or neighbors (like I did) who will never bring it back, but then I don't blame them -- it is worth keeping, even so if you can find it.

Thanks for the book recommendation Patricia. I hope I can hunt it down, sounds like a good read.

I was just wondering all this because I'd rather save the rose (if it were in distress, & that is an if) than let it stay there and die since I wanted both of these varieties. Sounds like I just have to hurry up and wait. I wish old Julio Ig. would hurry up. I just put a climber Berries 'n' Creme in the ground this week and it is beautiful with the striped rose/white & four blooms opened up already (it was a potted rose) so I can't wait for JI to get bloomin! Thx again.

piper101,
I'm not sure where you heard that a new rose should not be planted where another rose once grew, but I think that is mostly a myth. I do it and there have been no problems.

Yes, patience is one of the hardest things to learn when it comes to roses (or anything else, I guess). You'll get there. LOL

Kate

Kate, Of late I've been taking these free seminars at one of our many great nurseries in my area. It started out with soils and each class was different. Anyway the master gardener who taught it said that if you dig something up and put a completely different species of plant in the hole, you're fine across the board. It's when you pull up one type of plant and put the same TYPE of plant back in that hole that problems arise. In the rose case (I'm a prolific note taker) that roses especially bare root, don't like living around dead roots, the fine hair roots, and it's best to replace 1-2 Cu ft of soil, if you can, to eliminate the problem. Roots of the same plant type give it trouble whereas dead roots of different type of plant don't compete. Most fungi are species specific.

Piper, not all master gardeners teach the same class. In fact, some master gardeners are rose people and garden club people. The reason for not planting a rose in the same spot as where one died might be because the soil is not amenable to roses, there are voles/moles in the area. Otherwise, there could be no reason except the first rose was a bad rose to begin with. If you keep moving fragile bareroots around before they are established or while they are trying to get established, you are risking "mangling" those fine roots and killing it. It is just slow breaking dormancy. IF it has not broken dormancy in a couple weeks, "bag it." Now if you ask what is bagging, some (most of us) will be able to tell you but it is creating a mini greenhouse with a plastic bag.

Um ... not to knock the Master Gardeners on this forum. But, the Master Gardener program does not necessarily produce experts. People do learn a lot of useful stuff in the program, but no one knows everything, and nothing beats both training AND experience. The Master Gardener program produces knowledgeable amateur gardeners who are willing to share what they've been taught by Extension agents from land grant universities. They help to dispel the myriads of gardening myths and legends that have no scientific basis, but my own experience with master gardeners over the years has not been very impressive, as far as getting correct information on gardening problems. Hit and miss. Point being: just 'cause the person saying so is a Master Gardener, doesn't make it so. And even when something may be so 95% of the time, doesn't mean it's so in this specific instance in your specific garden. Nature is complex, and our brains are puny in comparison.

"most fungi are species specific". I do not know what that means. Hm. Yes, fungi come in species, but I doubt that's what was meant. Was the person talking about saprophytic fungi, or pathogenic fungi? Saprophytes are not necessarily host species specific. Some are, but others don't care where the organic matter they're feeding on came from. Pathogenic fungi vary in their degree of host specificity. A few are very specific, having been found causing disease on only one or two species of host plants. Phytophthora lateralis comes to mind. Causes Port Orford cedar root rot. Others have host species numbering in the hundreds or even thousands, such as Phytophthora cinnamomi, a globally distributed agricultural and forestry pest. Armillaria mellea (oak root fungus, armillaria root rot) also attacks just about anything. A saprophytic and pathogenic fungus, but does not cause disease on everything it eats. Some species of hosts are more susceptible than others. Roses are very susceptible.

There's been some speculation that so-called Rose Replant Disease is caused by saprophytic fungi breaking down the dead roots from the previous rose, creating a toxic environment, but it's just speculation so far. Another hypothesis is that the decaying roots of the previous rose put out toxic chemicals. Again, just speculation so far. Either one may be true sometimes, but neither one has so far been proven true to my knowledge. I often replant in the same hole, and only rarely have a problem doing so. My own experience (25 years worth) has been similar to Patricia's. If the previous rose died for some reason, and that reason is still there, then it will kill the next rose too.

Armillaria root rot is common in California. Roses are very susceptible. Roses replanted where armillaria killed the previous rose will die pretty quickly. As in, within a year or two. Not within weeks.

Patience, my friend! I'd be hesitant to move a bare root rose that's just starting to grow, especially this late in the SoCal spring. (Here, sure. We're still getting snow flurries up here, no danger of the rose drying out when its roots are disturbed.) You can also help it out by hilling it, or piling dirt up around it, to insulate the canes and new sprouts from drying out. A good practice whenever planting bare roots in your area, as your springs come on fast and hot and dry. Carefully remove the dirt once you see good strong new growth emerging.

Reg, The old roses removed were alive and doing just fine. They were just from the previous owner and had no smell etc. I am leaving the bare roots in place everybody. I'll just try the "mini-greenhouse" thing now.

Is either the brown paper bag 24/7 OR the plastic bag "mini-greenhouse", one better than the other or just pick one? I am worried that the ZD in question isn't getting enough sun and the Julio Ig, since it's surrounding established roses are growing bigger now, will be shutting it out of sunlight as they get bigger, I've already started to trim them back to preserve the sun for the baby JulioIg. I missed the boat in marking the 2 roses to the left of Julio as to whether they were going to be removed (no smell,,red or shrubs) and put on the curb for free (bundled, pruned with instructions and sure start). They are about to open their blooms so I'll be able to tell then. This house had 19 rose bushes in this area when we bought the house and 90% of them were red (my least favorite) and many had no fragrance (a must for me) so this is the 2nd year I've been removing a few & replacing with what I like and meets my criteria.

I can't speak to the rest about fungi since I know so little. I do buy products with mycorrhizael fungi in it since I've had success in not losing transplants since I've used starter fertilizers with it when I put them in the ground or pots. I'm attributing the difference to that addition. I'll be patient and come up with some other gardening things to occupy me while I wait. :)

Oh, yeah, take those metal tags off your roses; they are corrosives