In your area, lack of flowering is most likely attributed to winter or early spring cold damage and that could affect any of the bigleaf hydrangeas, Hydrangea macrophylla (a great many lacecaps are serratas and they tend to be somewhat less prone to cold damage). But without a name (obviously!!) or photo of flower there is really no way to determine which specific cultivar it might be.

You can try winter protection - many threads addressing this in the forum archives - and see if that encourages some flowering next season.

Just make yourself happy and replace them with reliable paniculatas - it's not worth fretting about. I've never regretted gradually replacing all my mopheads with Bobos, Quick Fires, and other zone hardy hydrangeas. We just can't fight these winters.

Thank you for all the helpful comments. Maybe I should just replace them! My annabelles, endless summer Blushing Bride and mopheads are all fine. ALL of them except the annabelles left lots of dry twiggy old stalks. I left them til just last week until I was sure that there weren't any blossoms on them. They were all dry. So I cut them all back.

I moved that wasn't blooming to a location that get morning sun and maybe a little dappled shade in the pm. That was last summer and it has buds now.

Gardening is never an exact science is it?? :))

Have you had your soil tested by your extension service? When you know your soil conditions you have more information on how to amend your soil to improve your gardens. Do you use a bloom enhancing fertilizer? Will your hydrangeas get at least 6 hours of morning sun?

Hello. I have amended the soil adding compost and miracid. I should re-do the testing. I used a kit before. No to a bloom enhancing fertilizer. What do you recommend? They do get 6+ hours of morning sun. Thank you!

I would check the levels of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to see if they are high or low. High nitrogen levels indicate that one may be over-fertilizing; and too much N makes the plant concentrate of growth at the expense of blooms.

Six hours of sun is great. You can go as low as 1-2 or plant in indirectly lighted areas... kind of like a full shade location that has bright (as opposed to dense shade). Bright shade locations are places where the sunlight hits inches away so it is bright. Or places where surfaces like cement walls or driveways bounce light -hopefully not too much- towards the hydrangea's location, making the area bright.

Miracid does not acidify the soil as amendments like iron-chelated compounds or aluminum sulfate but it contains nitrogen in various percentages depending on the package so ck the NPK Ratio to make sure you are not adding a lot of N.

For example, the Miracid box in the link below has 30% nitrogen (NPK Ratio is 30-10-10). If you add this often then nitrogen can slowly build up to high levels. A soil test can accurately tell you (a cheapo soil test will not be as accurate but may give a hint if things are high). If using chemical fertilizers, you can use a general purpose, slow-release fertilizer with a NPK Ratio of about 10-10-10 in the Spring.

http://www.sears.com/the-scotts-co-1-g-p-acid-lv-plant-food/p-SPM2697788902?hlSellerId=22023&sid=IDx20110310x00001i&kpid=SPM11935403316&kispla=SPM11935403316&gclid=CLOS1qqFuM0CFRY7gQodInoJZg

A 1/2 to full cup of organic compost, composted manure or cottonseed meal in Spring should be all you need provided you soil has no mineral deficiencies. You can also add minor weak fertilizers like liquid seaweed, liquid fish or coffee grounds during the growing season but stop at the end of June, so the plant will go dormant at its proper time in the Fall. The ones mentioned above have a lot of "minor" elements (Calcium, Magnesium, etc) that the plants always need.

This site is amazingly replete with useful information on hydrangeas. Some pages can only be accessed via the FAQ page, but it's really worth 'bookmarking' it as a standard reference point... The founder and originator of this site knows their onions...I mean, Hydrangeas!