I have learned my lesson!
Rosie1949
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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Rosie1949
7 years agoJulie He
7 years agoRelated Discussions
No idea what to do with my dahlias
Comments (1)All dahlias come from tubers, and can be started from seed, after which the plant produces a tuber (by the end of the season). As far as I know, there are no dahlias which are perennial to zone 6 - so they all have to be dug up and stored inside. People who don't want to bother doing this consider dahlias annual - but what a waste, in my opinion. The attached link has lots of great information for beginner and expert alike. Anna Here is a link that might be useful: Lots of Dahlia Information...See MoreFwhomp! That's the sound my tomato plant made last night
Comments (6)Hi Jeff! Hey, it is ONLY June. Those tomato plants could be 10' tall by August! Just to clarify, I always cage my tomatoes, AND I stake the cages AND the plants. Here is how I do it, and there are many other ways to do it as well. When I plant the tomato plant into the ground, I pound a 3' stake into the ground a couple of inches from the plant and loosely tie the plant to it with a zip-tie. This helps encourage the plant to stand up straight and tall as it begins to branch out rapidly....sometimes they get too heavy too fast and lean sideways a little. Secondly, I put the cage around the plant and stake the cage on 2 to 4 sides, depending on that variety's general rate of growth. The stakes help keep the cage from tipping over when we have a thunderstorm with very strong winds. I also attach the stakes to the cage with zip ties. I use zip ties a lot. After the tomato plant is a couple of feet tall, I cut the zip tie holding the plant to the original stake so the zip tie won't cut into the ever-enlarging main stem. If we are having a REALLY windy year, I run a bamboo stick or PVC pipe horizontally through several cages so they can help hold each other up. If a plant becomes a big monster and the cage is in imminent danger of tipping over, I add a 4' to 6' tall metal fence post as a stake on the side from which the wind usually blows, which for us in the summer is from the south. Sometimes, in spite of all you do, a cage will topple over anyway. That is where good mulching comes in. If your garden is well mulched, the toppled plant won't get a lot of foliar disease from the dirt. I am glad you enjoyed your first tomato. Home-grown ones are SO-O-O-O much better. You do know, don't you, that you shouldn't refrigerate homegrown tomatoes if you can avoid it? Once the homegrown tomatoes are refrigerated, their taste and texture both change and they are almost as bad as grocery store tomatoes. For fall tomatoes, you are at the mercy of whatever the stores have. There are some hybrid tomatoes that produce better in the heat, like Sunmaster, Sun Leaper, or Heat Wave II. Unfortunately, they were NOT bred for good flavor. I'd still go with ANY available heirloom, except Brandywine, which does not produce well in our heat. ANY cherry or paste tomato produces through the heat of the summer. I have had the best production in summer months from Better Boy, Big Boy, Bucks County, Porter, Beefmaster, Big Beef, Brandy Boy, Nebraska Wedding, Mule Team, Box Car Willie, Black Krim, Cherokee Purple, Arkansas Traveler, Bradley Pink, Lemon Boy, Super Boy (lots of tomatoes, but poor flavor), Fourth of July (same problem as Super Boy), and Celebrity as far as big tomatoes go. Well, Porter and 4th of July aren't big, but they are bigger than cherries. Among cherry/grape/currant tomatoes, these are my favorites for summertime/fall production: SunGold, SunSugar, Ildi, Black Cherry, Sweet Million, Orange Santa, Dr. Carolyn, Rosalita, Coyote and Snow White. Among paste tomatoes, almost any of them will produce in the heat. Some of our faves include Principe Borghese (for sun-dried tomatoes), Amish Paste, Orange Banana, Black Plum, Viva Italia, and San Marzano or San Marzano Redorta. Of course, my favorites tend to be different every time I type a list because there are so many good ones, and many produce better in the heat than I had expected. For me the ones that DON'T produce well in the heat are those that make really large beefsteak type tomatoes, generally those weighing in excess of a pound each. I never get very good fall tomatoes from large pink-fruited ones or from large bi-colored ones, altohugh Lucky Cross may prove to be the exception. Hi Hank, As a minimum container size for a single-staked indeterminate, it depends on the particular variety. Some indeterminates top out at 4' or so feet and could probably survive in a 5 to 10 gallon container as long as you water at least twice a day every day. I don't like to grow them in anything less than 10 to 20 gallon containers, and mine do best in 20 gallon or larger containers. No matter how large a tomato plant gets in the ground, it will always be smaller in a container where its roots are more confined. Container-grown plants need more frequent feeding as the constant watering leaches nutrients out of the soil. I have had NO LUCK staking container grown tomatoes. They really need to be caged. To keep them from blowing over, I put the cage on the ground with the container sitting inside the cage. I then stake the cage to the ground. It makes it impossible to move the plant around, but it keeps the container from blowing over when the wind blows. In my largest containers, the tomato plants hardly ever get taller than 7' or 8' tall. Often, they stay in the 4' to 5' tall range, depending on the variety and the container size. I just look at a 5 gallon bucket and estimate sizes of containers upward from there. Some of the best containers don't come from the garden center. Those square Rubbermaid-type storage totes make great containers if you drill or cut drainage holes into the bottoms of them. If you don't like the available colors, you can spray paint them with the Krylon Fusion spraypaint for plastics. Some of my favorite containers are 'muck buckets' sold at feed stores and farm and ranch stores. You can turn almost anything into a container if you put drainage holes in it. I know people who grow tomatoes in cheap 25 or 30 gallon trash cans. They fill the bottom half with shredded mulch and get put soil in the upper half. You can grow huge plants in containers that size. Dawn...See MoreAnswers to Questions About A Holly Hedge
Comments (15)Enjoying nature, I never have tried pruning hollies to a certain size. I let mine get to the full size and shape that they're meant to attain. You probably could prune them to any size and shape you want, but after a few years you end up with big thick branches with leaves sticking out of them and it looks unnatural unless you like tightly pruned hedges. I still can hear Neil Sperry's voice in my head on his radio show saying that if you want to prune shrubs into square green boxes, why not just go out and build a plywood box and paint it green. (grin) Who am I to defy Neil Sperry and try to prune my hollies to a certain arbitrary size? So, mine were spaced as far apart as they needed to be in the first place because I had a good idea how big they'd get and they are fine now---roughly 12' tall and 5-6' apart. Those are the Burford hollies on the south side of the house. They shade the south porch from the summer sun, which is precisely what I wanted them to do. On the east side of the house, which is where the front part of the wraparound porch and the front door is located, I planted Dwarf Burford hollies in 2011 and they seem more like the size you'd want. I wanted a naturally shorter shrub there so we could sit on the porch and look out into the yard somewhat at least. Mine have really had to struggle through drought (i think I planted them in April of 2011 and it stopped raining soon thereafter and didn't rain for 90 days that summer) so they have grown relatively slowly for hollies, but now are about 5' tall and about 3-4' wide and they haven't reached their max size yet. I expect them to top out at around 8' tall and 4' wide, but time will tell. They are a loose informal hedge, which fits with our country Victorian house....all relaxed and sort of cottagey. It is your house, though, and they are your shrubs, so you should plant what pleases you and maintain them in the way that makes you happy. I'm a firm believer that a person's landscape plantings should reflect their tastes and anyone who doesn't like it can just go mind their own business. Well, except, I still have Neil Sperry's voice in my head and I agree with his comments about picking the right shrub to begin with so you don't have to prune your shrubs to an unnatural size or shape. That's just me, though. Some people love formally pruned hedges and they should have what they want. All those years of reading Neil's newspaper columns, his magazine and his books when we lived in Texas (as well as listening to his radio show and attending his Garden Shows) trained me to be a certain way as a younger gardener, and I have his voice in my head the way I have my dad's voice in my head, even though he is long gone. Scott, We have native possumhaw hollies and I love them, but they sucker like the devil and we've got one in the front yard we're going to take out. I hate to take it out because it is the bird feeder tree where we hang the feeders, but we'll just move them somewhere else. It just suckers endlessly and I'm tired of dealing with it. We'll leave the ones on the edges of the woods because it doesn't bother us if they form thickets, and the birds love the berries in late winter and early spring, though they won't touch them until all the other berries are gone. When the cedar waxwings are migrating through in spring, they get pretty much drunk on those fermented possumhaw berries. I feel like pretty much everything we plant has one poisonous part or another, so I plant what I want. If kids are around, I keep an eye on the kids, and teach them not to eat plant parts without checking with an adult first. No child has poisoned themselves on anything we grow yet, so I try not to worry about it. (And I grow several types of brugmansias and daturas, but the spiny seed balls are so hideous that I don't think I have to worry about kids getting hold of them and accessing the seeds.) When we were kids we ran all over the neighborhood and played and we all knew to go home immediately when our parents turned on the front porch light. None of us died or ever got seriously injured or ill. It was a wonderful childhood, and we had a woodland, a neighborhood pond, rocky cliffs to climb, etc. I appreciate that we got to be kids with no one hovering over us too much. Times have changed. And, just so you know, most poisonous plant parts have a bad taste, making it less likely kids will eat them. Or, they will cause you to throw up if you ingest them, so kids are not that likely to eat and swallow them. (However, some dogs will eat anything, so that is one thing to keep in mind if you have dogs.) It is a sad commentary on life in this century that kids cannot play tag. No wonder so many children have a weight issue. It is hard to stay physically fit if you cannot do anything because you might get hurt. That is just sad. Dawn...See MoreGardens in Bed
Comments (4)I do 3 raised beds 4' x 18'. Just the wife and I. Tomatoes went well with Big Beef , Black Krim and Thessaloniki productive and tasty. CP and Jetsetter were huge failures this year. Sunsugar ( 2) were so productive the neighbors were putting up No Trespassing signs with my name on it.LOL. Two 5 foot trellisis of Alibi cukes produced 48 qts of pickles before the wife told me to "please, no more". Onions did great 60# of Alisa Craige and Copra. Even though we have snow on the ground now , we still are pulling Tendersweet carrots for Thanksgiving and Sunday's dinner ( mulched with chopped leaves). Many,many quarts of pole beans, Fortex and Emerite. Japanese Beetles love the Fortex but left the Emerite virtually alone. Will try Emerite only next year just to see. Garlic, hardneck, 250 plants this year, 80 in the ground for next year (Music and German Xtra Hardy). Ordered all my seeds last week, flowers and veggies, and received half already. Of course I save seeds from all my OP veggies and petunias. For next spring: no cherry toms ( we cannot eat fast enough). Big Beef, Thessaloniki, Black Krim toms. Going to attempt winter sowing some Early Girls just for fun. Peppers will be Gypsy and Carmen. Onion = AC and Copra No winter squash or Brassicas, they take up too much room, and the SVBs are persistent here. Alibi and Diva cukes again. Dill reseeds itself ( boy, does it ever)....See Moreirina_co
7 years agoRosie1949
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7 years agoJulie He
7 years agoRosie1949
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoDJ Curtiss
7 years agoDJ Curtiss
7 years agoRosie1949
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoJulie He
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7 years agoJulia (1meanmop)
7 years agoDJ Curtiss
7 years agoJulie He
7 years agoRosie1949
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7 years agoKen Zone 5 SE Idaho
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7 years agoLeon Ash
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7 years agoDJ Curtiss
7 years agoRosie1949
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