Need advice ASAP! Feeling panicky about switching to hardwood floors!
Pink Poppy
7 years ago
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jellytoast
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoRelated Discussions
Painted hardwood floor? OR ... ?
Comments (25)You've already had good advice -- and the Sarah Richardson paragraph is great. I thought I'd give you our experiences with painted floors and pine, since we also have Beagles. First, the pine. I agree. Don't use it; use a hardwood instead. When we bought our house, most of the floors were southern yellow pine. We had them refinished. It didn't take long before there were deep scratches, especially near the exterior doors. Picture three Beagles dashing to the door whenever someone comes in or out. Also picture mad chases around the house on days of pouring rain or deep snow! I would NOT use pine. Painted floors. To save money after tearing out horrid carpet upstairs, we temporarily (for about 8 years!) installed oak faced plywood in a couple of rooms and painted them with floor/porch paint. One room got daily use as we walked through it to get to our bedroom. Because of its location, it was part of the long "raceway" between the two end bedrooms upstairs. Again, lots of fast and furious Beagle traffic. The floors survived much, much better than the pine floors. They were painted a deep blue, so had they scratched like the pine downstairs did, we'd have seen it. Of course, we're in New England and don't have Florida humidity....See MorePlease help- tiles or hardwood floors in the kitchen?
Comments (19)Emily My first ? is what happened in 3yrs to the existing wood floors? - WHat type & how many coats of poly were applied? If I had to guess I would venture that the floors were not properly refinished. I will agree others who say have the wood refinished - esp given the application open plan. I would make certain that the refinisher is using high quality poly & 3-4 coats allowing plenty of dry time in between. The key to HW in high traffic areas (that have been properly finished) -is to limit the amount of dirt/grit that really attacks the finish. Yes water should be wiped up, but unless it's a large amount and left for long period it is less of the evils. The other KEY issue to protecting finish to HW in high traffic areas is to have a new coat of poly applied every yr - preferably done by professional. This is where most homeowners fail, they feel it is a hassle and end up needing a full sanding/refinishing. We put coat on our new kit floors a little more than 1yr following orig install - for a whopping $124!!! So glad I did it. WIll do it again in the Spring. Orig install had stain + 4 coats of oil based poly - the still look new In order to reapply poly you must not use ANY oil based products to the floor - Murphys etc - this will not allow adherence of any further poly Good luck...See MoreNeed advice on hardwood Flooring NOT made in China
Comments (29)Hello- I am not Kathy, but I got a notification since I am also in this conversation. We installed our Monarch floors May of 2018 (Novana line/color Nebbia) and I have been extremely happy with them. We put them in our entire house (2700 square feet) and they look just as nice as they did when first installed. I just vacuum them regularly/spot mop if something spills and mop everywhere with recommended wood floor cleaner about once a month. We did have issue with our stairs when they were being installed with batches matching. The stair caps (not sure correct term) did not match the batch the rest of the floor boards were. In hindsight, I would have made sure they opened the boxes and made sure the batch for the stairs matched the batch we had everywhere else, since colors can slightly vary. Monarch worked great with our installer, though and it ended up working out fine... just caused a little delay. Good luck! Amy...See MoreHardwood floors have scratches/scuffs/discolor after sanding/staining?
Comments (83)I just went through the same thing. But then I'm a rehabber and get my fixer uppers at foreclosure sales at half their final market value. Hand the contractor a copy of your photos, and then simply lock the contractor out of the house. Ignore any payment the contractor thinks they have coming. And start over. Document what's there. but it looks like you have plenty of pictures in hand in case the contractor has the gall to complain later formally or try to take credit for someone else's work. Moving on, the first thing you'll want to do is change your mindset to only contracting out a room or two at a time. If the contractor doesn't work out, there is less money involved. I've never seen a floor contractor who would or could show the work of his last job, especially with old rehab floor boards. I'm sure it is difficult since they often times got fired from their last job. It is true that a good contractor can take one look at your floor and assess it on sight. The problem is that you can't, and you can't tell a real contractor from a poser, and you can't believe anything that you are told by a poser. Next you'll need to assess a room of interest. You'll need to drum sand at 36 or 40 grit. A Home Depot $75/day drum sander will work fine. Always spread lowering the drum control over a 12" long rolling movement to prevent burning the floor, which is the term for a hard drum drop. An untrained millenial with that instruction could do it if you take away his cell phone for the day. You'll need the millenial for the day anyway to lift the sander. Subsequent sandings at higher grit numbers will follow. End with an orbital 12x18" sander finish buff at 100 grit starting with pencil marks on 5 separate occasions then twice with the 12x18" screen buff with use of a $1 carpenters pencil to scribble on every sq ft of sanded oak between every grit number. Any floor contractor could do it, but few will do it piecemeal. A 6" 60 grit disc on a Harbor Freight $130 Hercules Sander is used for edge sanding and to feather out any accidental drum drops which are simple to find after the first coat of stain is applied. Stay clear of professional edge sanders, which homeowners often times call the Tasmanian Devil. Stain and finish are applied wearing an FDA Approved air pressure mask fed by an air hose from a $500 HobbyAir machine plugged in outdoors. The proactive approach is more like feeling out the unstained floor with finger tips like Helen Keller or shining daylight or hallogen light on the bare sanded oak before staining to find any dips caused by hard drum drops. Using a flooring contractor, probably the best you could do would be an option to quit at $1 a sq/ft or two if the drum sanding doesn't yield accceptable results. If the floor gets too thin or the marks you wish to lose are too deep to sand out before making the floor too thin, then you have your answer, and you are ready for new wood. New wood doesn't cost much. I paid $3.20 sq/ft for the wood material plus self installation. Always pay more for longer boards in the mix. And your floor looks beat and pet or plant water stained half to death anyways. New red oak of dubious quality is widely available on Facebook for $1/sq ft in any sized quanity. You'd think you died and went to heaven if $1/sq ft new oak flooring in 2.5" width was installed in lieu of your existing flooring, moisture content, acclaimation time, and warpage aside...start really small. Dark stain like Minwax Jacobean, two or three coats, and a 15 minute wait time will cover almost anything in minimally acceptable fashion on really beat floors. Once you pull that thread in the sweater of rehab, the whole sweater often times unravels. Replacing wood flooring is not an all or nothing proposition. In one house with 1700 sq ft, I had 2 sq ft replaced in 4 different rooms, before final drum sanding. They can reweave in a repair for about $300 a spot and if the carpenter is good, you can't even tell. It is a refinish contractor who knows the good temp floor carpenters that do good spot repairs. In another house, I paid a demo contractor to remove all the existing boards and then nailed in 3286 sq ft of new red oak using a $160 floor cleat nailer from Harbor Freight, a $50 jig saw, and a $90 Porter Finish nailer from Harbor Freight, and a $160 air compressor from Harbor Freight, and a $110 10" framing saw from Home Depot. It took weekends for a couple of months. Cleats are about $10 a box at Harbor Freight. Any handyman with access to youtube videos can do the installation. The trick is hidden female-female join strips available over the counter from Lumber Liquidators for 50 cents /ft and special order nose pieces for $4/ft that have the 1/4 female grove for level drops like stairs. Works just like lego. Cleats only go in the male connection or tongue side. I hired an unsuspecting millenial handyman through Angi's List by asking for floor leveling and trained him using youtube videos to do the leveling, sanding, staining, and polyurethane paid one day at a time. Even that has to be limited to a room or two a day. Cost was less than half professional estimates and few flooring contractors will do anything without a contract for everything, and you never know which steps he can do well, and which he will fail at. In Chicago, a good flooring contractor has a cost of $1.5 sq ft., but they only like to work in the city limits. In Ohio, it's more like $10/sq ft for just the finish contractor even on simple unfinished new wood installation, which is what they all figure they are worth. You'd have to do a room complete yourself to qualify for project managing others, but then you'd be very capable for knowing when to fire someone. 90% of professional flooring installers fail at floor leveling or rather floor smoothing in older houses. After talking with the president of the NHWA, and the all of the most expensive flooring contractors in my area, it is obvious that I'm the most knowledgeable in leveling or smoothing out 20 year old big box Homes believed to have been built by the cheapest contractors in all the land. Don't allow removal of any wood strips or other underlayment pieces especially those glued or stapled in place under the existing flooring or you risk entering into the wonderland of the next level of skilled craftsman, the floor leveler who will offer to remove your floor boards to the rafters and install new underlayment plywood in lieu of leveling on top of your existing floor underlayment....See Morecpartist
7 years agojellytoast
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7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoILoveRed
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7 years agoPink Poppy
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