Look at Bmorepanic's layout on Fri, Mar 12, 10 at 12:09; it has a similar layout for a range on that wall...only with more work room. You really need more than 12" next to a doorway for safety's sake. While 12" may be Code, that doesn't mean it's best, especially if you have/are planning to have gas. There also isn't much workspace room overall next to it...I know it's better than what she currently has, but that doesn't mean it's enough or that it can't be even better. Another consideration...be sure to have at least a 24" overhang if you have the range (or cooktop) in that location. I do not recommend seating behind a range or cooktop, but if you insist on doing it, at least make it safe! Venting will also be an issue...for truly adequate venting, you need an overhead range hood...in this case, you'll need an "island range hood". [The majority of downdrafts are ineffective. Telescoping downdrafts are better, but then you have a vent in front of anyone sitting there and it's only effective for items right next to it and shorter than it by several inches.] About island range hoods... First, island range hood's are more expensive than wall hoods. Second, an island hood will hang down in front of anyone working or sitting there, will block the view to/from the DR & Kitchen, and will put the noise of a hood in your visitor's ears...and if you put in a raised bar, it's even worse b/c your visitors will be sitting another 6" higher and closer to the hood. Third, island range hoods need to be larger and/or stronger than wall hoods b/c of the increased air currents...meaning more $$ and more noise. Noise can be cut down by getting an even stronger hood and running it on low, but that adds yet more $$$ Fourth, that hood hanging down will most likely be a "commanding presence"...unless you get a low profile hood (meaning a thin hood) and/or glass (which means cleaning it often)...but those hoods have even less capture capability b/c there's no place to trap smoke/steam/grease/odors/etc. for venting out...so that means an even larger hood and more power and probably mounting even lower. IMHO, it's made even worse b/c the area is so small...a large hood will overwhelm that small peninsula. There are three main differences b/w BmorePanic's layout & JohnLiu's: Seating on the DR side of the kitchen. Is there room to take 24" of counter + seating space out of it? I can't tell from the pictures. Refrigerator location...I like John's location better b/c it puts it on the periphery and allows outsiders to get to it w/o interfering with those working in the kitchen DW location....I like Bmorepanic's better...it keeps the DW out of the Cooking Zone and out of the best Prep Zone...also across from the range. Why is that the best Prep Zone? Two reasons: (1) Because it's directly across from the range so going back & forth is easier and (2) It's out of traffic coming in/out of the kitchen. ...

I'm baaaaaaack! Got sidetracked a bit being out of town and then came home and hubby had to be hospitalized with pneumonia. He's on the mend now. Sooooo, to all of you out there, speak now or forever just hold it! We are likely ordering tomorrow and this is the latest plan: We are going to go with a 16" inch overhang which is the shorter one in above pics...still not short, but shorter then 18. And I was sold on the clipped corners from the start, but now I don't think I'm going to do them. Interesting. We are going to have the corners just slightly rounded...there won't be a point. Guy asked if we wanted a dime size curve, or nickel, or coffee cup. Think the dime will be sufficient. We will also do the three inch overhang on the two sides. Top will likely be 2 and 1/2" thick end grain. That is the height you see in my pics with the 1/2" particleboard and the 2" sample board on top. And finish will be the permanent marine grade which I hear is Waterlox. That's all I can think of. If anyone has any comments, alternate ideas, or if you're just absolutely horrified, I would appreciate a shout out...sooner rather then later. Thanks, pup

LOVE, love, love everyone's chandeliers !! I'm going to attempt to add pictures in this post ... I'll probably mess up, so just in case, I'm attaching the link to my blog, and if you scroll down (through Parts 2 and then 1 of my Holiday Home Tour), you'll see my various chandeliers dressed for the holidays !! Take care, Becca http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_wccJVIKSNYA/SyI8WT2GDPI/AAAAAAAAAEw/DMBUYpn2m9o/s1600/157.JPG http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_wccJVIKSNYA/SyOvhr5BKzI/AAAAAAAAAOw/zT-LBaRzc94/s1600/004.JPG http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_wccJVIKSNYA/SyJwZsZN1SI/AAAAAAAAAHI/TL4hdV-ZKKY/s320/073.JPG Here is a link that might be useful: Adventures in Decorating

I'm not much of a layout person, but my kitchen is 12x13, almost the same dimensions as yours, so I've given a lot of thought to squeezing an island into the space. And come to the conclusion that it isn't a good idea if you are planning to have standard depth counters on each wall. Here's the math--13'2" is 158 inches. Standard cabinets are 24" but the counter adds an inch, so subtract 50 inches for the counters on both sides. If you did a 3 foot wide island, that would leave 72 inches for the two aisles, or 3 feet per aisle, which is really narrow even for one person and becomes even more so if a second person is ever in the kitchen when you are cooking, even briefly. If you narrow the island to 2 feet, you can get the aisles up to the minimum recommended 42". BUT, a 2 foot island is really narrow, and unless it is really solving a layout problem, it probably isn't worth doing one so narrow. Your island ISN'T solving any layout problem and, as Practigal noted, is in fact is causing problems by blocking the path from the stove to the sink. I think 13 feet is a hard width for a kitchen. If you don't have an island, the distance between counters is 9 feet, which is a bit long if you were to put, say, your stove and sink on opposite walls, as you have. If you put in an island, either the island or the aisles are too narrow. A peninsula is a possibility (they worked beautifully for decades in mid-century kitchens and should not be pooh-poohed just because they are out of vogue). Another possibility would be to do an L-shaped kitchen and take out the counter on the great room side, keeping the island (and maybe making it wider and maybe adding seating). You might have room for shallow storage there, or you could take the cabinets out entirely and even lose the wall to the great room and go full-on open floor plan (if its a load-bearing wall, and I bet it is, this would probably require some supporting columns. If you kept the wall, you would want to move the kitchen door (at the bottom) to the left to expand the leg of the L. If you lose the wall to the great room, the door is unnecessary and you could expand the leg of the L even more. Speaking of the door to the kitchen, I don't like that there is no counter landing space next to the fridge for groceries going into the fridge or for items coming out of the fridge. I currently have no counter space next to the fridge, and I have to set the grocery bags on the floor to load the fridge. Not ideal.