i found the to-scale drawing i made of a 30" base cabinet i liked, with an inset door and 2 drawers. the cabinet itself is 30" wide by 32" high, without counter; the countertop will have to be longer if you want any overhang. i plan to build this myself, for my kids' bathroom. i think its a nice looking cabinet. here are some details of the front that might help you. there is a false drawer front (which could be a tilt-out) at the top of the cabinet. it's 4 1/2" tall x 25 1/4" long. above and below it are the top and middle horizontal pieces (rails) of the frame, each at 2 1/4" wide. this covers the basin area. below, starting at 9" down from the cabinet's top (not including the counter top) are the door and drawers. the door is 12 3/4" wide x 16 7/8" tall. the inner edge of the door is in the center of the cabinet. the drawers are each about 10 1/2" wide x 7 1/2" tall. the vertical members on the right, left and middle of the face frame (stiles) are 2 1/4" wide, as are the top, middle and bottom rails (horizontal members.) in addition, it has 4" tall legs, which are the tapered ends of the stiles. since the drawers are not at the very top, they don't interfere with the basin. and if you wanted all drawers and no door, you could modify it.

Thanks, palimpsest. These were custom built. I know we told the cabinet maker we wanted 36" high counters and that one would be laminate and the other would be tile but obviously he didn't adjust sizes to accommodate the two different counter materials. Not surprising, really. We weren't all that impressed with him or the cabs. They're sturdy enough but not as nice as what we saw in the model home (the builder switched subs after we signed). Can anyone else help me figure out if I'm measuring these correctly? If I need to make an adjustment to avoid counters 36 1/2" or higher, I want to know before the granite guys show up. TIA!

Here's an article for oil VS water https://homeguides.sfgate.com/oil-vs-latex-kitchen-cabinet-refinishing-72017.html When I resurface furniture I prefer oil primer & oil paint due to it's durability and quality of spread. I have more success with oil over water base when painting wood. White is tricky due to yellowing sheen, however there is some oils with less sheen that are made to avoid yellowing. I have heard water base has become better over the years, but I personally have not found a product yet, I could guarantee. With my clients, I will not risk the possibility of something going wrong with painting cabinets. Technically I could, I have sold lots of painted furniture & I specialize in airbrushing. But, a kitchen is used everyday with lots of moving parts, so I shy away from the potential risk. If my clients really want to paint cabinets, I suggest a reputable cabinet refining company with warranty. I will not put new countertop on until after 3 months have gone by & any faulty paint problems like chipping, peeling, ect has been ruled out. Patience pays in this situation. I am more cautious & think about the future results & durability than a quick remodel. The reason why is I have met several clients who needed to redo their kitchens due to a failed paint job not wearing well in 3+ years. They tried fixing & fixing & said never again. They wanted new cabinets. Unfortunately, they had to get new countertop, too. Of course, I'm helping people with problems with paint jobs. I'm not getting calls from the people who got a good, durable paint job. I only suggest painted cabinets to sell or flip a home to show better. I would only have factory finish spray cabinets in my kitchen, because factory finish is superior. I cook daily and hard on my kitchen. I would paint a vanity or built in that is not taking a beating , but not a kitchen. So, to sum it up, I go with the Pro refinisher who warrants his work or new factory painted cabinets. Whatever you choose, I wish your project success.

Take the paint and get it color matched to a good quality cabinet paint, at one of the bigger paint stores.