Rot where tree has been pruned
Hhychin (z7 philly)
7 years ago
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wisconsitom
7 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
7 years agoRelated Discussions
My 10 yr old Nectarine Tree Has Never Been Pruned - HELP !!
Comments (2)Thank you so much for the advice. I actually did some already, but I really feel like I went easy. I just kept thinking, well...if it needs more, I'll do it next year. I mostly took off little brittle pieces and ones that were crossing like you suggested. I probably spent an hour at least just going over each limb. I think I was able to tell more and more as time went on which branches were old and which were new. I figured all those old twigs and such were just taking up space that the fruit could grow and light could come in. I did take off a couple pretty hefty branches right in the middle, (by hefty, I mean I had to use the saw, about 1 1/2" in diameter) to allow more sun in. I won't do any more and will hope and pray it survives it's pruning!! Thank you again for the advice!...See Morea 'tree' house plant that has been losing all it's leaves...
Comments (6)Well, first things first: it's a Dracaena fragrans. I think. The reason why it hasn't attempted to grow back any of the lost leaves is because it can't. All you can do when you're a Dracaena is get taller or branch, and branching would only be likely if it had grown mostly horizontally for a period of time, or if it had flowered. So it gets taller. Is there a way to regrow? Well, kinda. You could cut the plant back, at which point it would be forced to sprout new growing tips. Or you could air-layer (.pdf file) and start over again with the tops of the plants. The more interesting question to me is why you're losing so many leaves in the first place. Granted, keeping your plant alive for two years is an accomplishment in and of itself, but the leaf drop looks like a fairly extreme case of something or another, too. It would like more light, though that's not why it would be dropping leaves. Soil breakdown is a possibility, as is over- or under-watering, fertilizer buildup, and temperature. Pests are an outside possibility, but these aren't really known for having pest problems, and most pest problems would have progressed well beyond obvious by now. So. When you water, do you pour water in until it starts running back out, or do you only add a little bit at a time? Does the plant ever have to stand in a saucer full of water? Is the plant in a draft? Is the plant in the path of an air conditioning or heating vent? How long has it been since the plant got new soil? Is the water in your area naturally high in fluoride? How do you decide when it's time to water? (by schedule? by feeling the top couple inches of soil? by weight of the pot? whenever you remember?) Are there roots coming out of the bottom of the pot? I'm going to go ahead and bet $10 on soil compaction and/or rootbound: that's a lot of plant for the size of the pot it's in. Unlike saucer, I think I would go up a pot size unless you're planning to cut it back, and if it's as potbound as I suspect it is, I might move it up to the next largest size regardless. If it were my plant. Which it is not. Look at the roots first, like saucer said....See MoreThis winter has been so odd and unpredictable--scared to prune!
Comments (10)One of my Clotilde Soupert bushes must be sunburned, because she is reddish purple as you describe, Ann. She has very few leaves, only at the top. I keep hoping she's not dead. Since she's a polyantha, she's one I plan to prune. I'll be waiting to prune until the 19th and 20th of February, assuming the forecast that weekend doesn't have hard freezes coming our way. But I would think that would be safe. After all, how much new growth is going to sprout in the next 7 - 10 days. We've been having nice weather recently during the day, and twice in the last week or so we had 3" rainfall, so lots of roses are showing new growth. The silly things won't listen when I tell them February's coming. I just looked at Duchesse d'Auerstadt. Man O Man! Every budeye going up her long bare canes is bulging, some with multiple buds sprouting from the same eye. It was kind of scary to think about all that growth on its way. I really hope you keep your 20's temps to yourselves up there. I don't want anymore hard freezes. :(( I was just thinking about looking in the Farmer's Almanac (do they have it online?) to see what February holds for us. I really don't know what the FA is/says/does since I'm ignorant about farming, but I'm curious about the next month's weather. Ronda, January wasn't as bad as December for us. I sure don't envy the snow you had (I'm assuming you did anyway.) Sherry Here is a link that might be useful: If only sweat were irrigation......See MoreCan I regrow an Oak Tree from one that has been cut down?
Comments (6)If you let the bottom part of the stump regrow it has got the roots so it will be stable ...the other parts of the stump you can make into a hedge if you just leave them on the ground some will sprout and others won't. Either way its good mulch if the tree isn't diseased. Otherwise just use the stumps or compost them and only let the base with the roots regrow. You can wax the top of the stump with beeswax to seal the open wound and stop it rotten and getting diseased. we have an apple tree that grew back like that and ive got horse chestnuts growing that way. You can also employ a proper arbour maintenance guy to cut your trees into shapes that are less likely to get ripped up in a storm hey take a lot of the longer branches and shorten them so you get new flimsy growth which the wind can't break as easily and they look nice after a few years and if it is properly done. They do third in Europe a lot and it looks great. Here in Ireland a lot of people with an electric saw think they can do work with trees and really they have not a clue. So be careful to find a guy and see his work. Sometimes they cut them so ugly but when cut right it make a them a lot safer and still looks nice. Bit like a lollipop lol! But better than having no trees at all. You can also plant other trees around large trees to create wind break... Trees like poplar are good for that and birch they break the wind up and divert it before the fall force hits the big tree. Its not bad for buildings to have some wind break too. Might not make much difference during a hurricane though. If its a big oak its probably been there longer than you and birds may have lived there for generations ...trees are an amazing asset and take so long to mature that I'd do everything I could to protect them and help them endure safely before cutting them down. They do so much good. And you might find problems if you fell a lpt of them... Landsliding away flooding in paddocks and other things which the trees have been preventing for years....See MoreHhychin (z7 philly)
7 years agoHhychin (z7 philly)
7 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
7 years agoHhychin (z7 philly)
7 years agoToronado3800 Zone 6 St Louis
7 years agowisconsitom
7 years ago
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