just a point of reference for anyone reading this post that is considering a pump upgrade to their existing floor system pool. As repair guy indicated, the Intelliflo VS or any other variable speed pump out there that has multiple speeds will work just fine to satisfy the periodic higher flows for the floor system (about 2 hours on average) and then the rest of the filter on time can be spent on low speed savings lots of money over a 1 speed pump. I think repair guy meant the Intelliflo VF is not a good choice for a floor system. I agree, and still struggle with the value of VF on any application. VF will increase speed and therefore system pressure to maintain a set gpm rate. This defeats the purpose of having a variable speed pump because this increases power consumption without the homeowner knowing it. All while a simple filter clean or fixing some other system problem goes undetected because the system continues to operate just fine even though there is a problem. There a probably applications out there where VF is ideal and I certainly would like to hear about them! Another lower cost option for those wishing to upgrade their floor system pump is a 2 speed. This will satisfy the high flow needs of the floor system and the rest of the pump on time is in low speed savings lots of money over a 1 speed. Personally, I have the exact combo that repair guy stated above, a Jandy 2HP 2 speed with a Jandy 460 cartridge. My filter pressure at high speed is 20 psi and the multiport valve pressure is 18 psi. This is accomplished with 2.5" piping and sweep 90's instead of hard 90's in the plumbing circuit. At low speed, the filter pressure is around 4 psi and the multiport valve still operates providing circulation and chlorination via SWG to the pool floor. This setup is working just fine and saves lots of money over a 1 speed pump setup. Also, keep in mind, with the higher flows required for floor systems, the variable speed pump will not be as efficient as a 2 speed pump running at high speed for the floor cleaning cycle. This is due to the inverter on the variable speed pump and the impeller not tuned for the higher flows, resulting in lower efficiency at the higher speeds for the variable speed pumps. Also, for those looking to upgrade to a more energy efficient system, Jandy has a new versa-plumb system available now that connects all the equipment above the ground with an engineered system that provides optimimum hydraulics. This takes all the guess work out of designing the plumbing for optimum efficiency. I wish this system was available when I built our pool.....it would have saved me a lot of homework and convincing the pool company why I needed the larger pipes and sweep 90's !!! I do not work for Jandy, even though it may sound like it. I just have a passion for saving energy due to the industry I work in. When products come along with claims of saving energy, I do a lot of homework on these products to find out the technology behind their claims. In the case of the versa-plumb system....their claims are backed by solid hydraulic principles which will save money year over year with good plumbing design allowing the pump to work easier. I am not endorsing this product, but only point this out to those who want to either plumb their own system or offer a suggestion to their pool builder or plumber on the proper way to plumb a pool pump system for efficient operation. Hope this helps!

You did an amazing job - I think most pool builders could learn a thing or two from what you have accomplished here. As someone who has plumbed hundreds of pools with similar configurations I just want to provide you with a little bit of insight into your underground plumbing chase. While it is clear that you took a ton of care to have a clean raceway to run the lines it, you made a few key errors that anyone looking to reproduce your results should avoid. In the areas where you have needed to raise one pipe over another you used double 45's to create a saddle. While this is the right choice from a system efficiency and friction loss standpoint, having underground 45's like that can be a problem. You will not be able to sufficiently compact under the saddle and as a result the top pipe will sink over time as the ground settles. Even a tiny movement of the pipe with rigid lines can cause a failure - and the 45 saddle is a weak point for a failure. As much as having back to back 90 fittings is bad, they are able to take the compression of ground movement better than an unsupported 45. Again, amazing job...just want to lend some experience. One more thing worth mentioning is that when you have a pipe penetration through the shell it can be a good idea to 90 down immediately. If the rigid pipe comes straight out, again it has to endure the force of the ground settling around it. By turning the pipe down with a 90 you do increase the friction losses in he system but relieve this leverage point which is a known failure point in swimming pool design. I hope this info is helpful!

My husband is a licensed real estate inspector in Texas, and I'm a licensed realtor. My husband chooses to not do pool inspections though. When I'm showing a buyer and we find a house that we're interested in, I always make sure to ask the listing agent when the pool built, and how old the pool equipment is. I want to know if it's still covered under any sort of transferrable warranty. I also ask if the pool has been replastered. Texas is a disclosure state, so I'll also ask if there have been any issues with the pool, such as leaks, etc. I've learned the hard way to ask to see an existing survey, showing the pool positioned on the lot. I've run into title issues when the pool decking has been inside of either utility easements, or builder easements. I always make sure that my buyers order a new survey when there are pools, since old surveys can be used here. I'd look at safety issues as well, such as fencing. Does it meet code for the area that you're looking in?

Okay nevermind.. I found the problem and fixed it!!! So, I was so pissed off that I just start tearing apart my heater. LOL ****Future note to Hayward owners*** There are two vacumn hoses attached to the main blower located under the top cover of the heater. Hayward in their cheap ass ways used the crapiest hoses possible. These hoses over time will crack and either leak or in my case just fall off. These hoses are a safety feature to tell the mainboard that the blower is functioning. Without the complete vacumn the heagter will shutoff so it doesnt catch fire. One of my two hoses had cracked on the end and just plain fell off. I clipped the end back to the good part of the hose and put it on the nipple. I assume that most "IF" error codes are caused by this problem. ALL FIXED AND NO $125 repair man fee!!!!!! Jdegid