Such cool plants. Love that dorstenia

agreed, lavrani is very kool.

I love your euphorbias. I really love your dorstenia. Your little lava rock plants are cute :) they look like baby semps.

Love it!! Plain jealous of the Othona.

harry

Great plants and pics! I've only jades and stapelias, nothing very exciting, but it's good to see what you others get up too!

Gill UK

Thank you, everyone.

Next batch:

My only lithops, 4 years old now.

Pachypodium brevicaule waking up and probably about to bloom again!

Euphorbia gorgonis

Felis catus, typically a small, furry, carnivorous mammal.

Pagan

Love all of these!

Wow, all great plants Pagan. Thank you for showing.

Super awesome plants! Cute kitties too. Your unidentified plant looks like Graptopetalum paraguayense "ghost plant".

Great bunch of plants yet again, thanks for posting....and now we have a real pic of your Avatar! I've always wondered what exactly it is, now I know!

Gill UK

Gill, you really pay attention :)

Thanks, all. Sharing these is the least I can do, considering how many of these plants have been rescued by this forum.

I hope you're not tired of them yet. Next batch!

Adromischus cristatus

Dorstenia foetida

Echevaria purpusorum

Like a nutjob, I grieved the loss of plants over the winter by getting aloes. Because...well, you know. I didn't have any.

Aloe distans

Aloe mitriformis

Pagan

P.S. Gill---oh yeah lol That's my medusoid pot.

Oh and thanks Daniel for the ID. Now all my plants have names.

Pagan, the eyes of your avatar/pot spooks the crap out of me. The really black eyes just scares me quite a bit. lol.

Thanks for taking us on your tour.. I would love to see more Eches..

And more...

Operculicarya decaryii. (Yes, I chopped it. Not a fan of long bendy sticks.)

Adromischus marianniae herrei

New arrival: Haworthia emelyae var multifolia

FYI, this is what it looks like when semps are threatening to bloom outdoors.

Enjoy!

Pagan

Outstanding collection!

Love the collection photos! Nice to see we're growing a couple in common and their slight differences. =)

Thanks! I can say with confidence that I got most of these plants shortly after reading posts here and seeing pictures. Otherwise, I wouldn't have known they existed.

Pagan

Well if we're taking turns... :-P

Dudleya gnoma, finally getting those perfect white rosettes!!

Bulbine mesembryanthemoides shining like an emerald in the sun!

Whitesloanea crassa, recently repotted and already growing 5 days later lol they definitely are easier than pseudolithos FYI...

Pelargonium cortusifolium, with beautiful bark!

Cintia knizei, new but growing a new "lump" already!

Some of last years most successful seedlings. Mixed aloinopsis species and ornithogalum sardienii

i really love the medusoid pot :-P and that aloe mitroformis!! Also, how gritty is your Dorstenia lavrani mix? Mine lost its roots earlier this year because I left it in Florida-appropriate mix and forgot to switch it over :'-(

See, this is what I mean. Now I'm looking seriously at that Cintia knizei, which two minutes ago, I did not know about! My brain will circle that idea for about six months and let's not kid ourselves, I'm going to end up with one.

Thanks for taking a turn, Ben. You have fantastic plants.

My D. lavrani is in 1:1:1 gritty mix with about a 10 percent garden soil. It's slightly more water hungry in summer than my D. foetida which is in 5:1:1. Neither of them go dormant in winter although they tend to go insane transitioning outdoors in the spring.

Pagan

Pagan how do you have Othonna in leaf now when it is supposed to be a winter grower and dormant now? I have a Othonna lepidocaulis and it's just "there"; no leaves... just a hard stem. Did yours come from OOA?

Your Dorstenia are great! Didn't know you had them... thought you only had Haws...LOL. Have they flowered for you and if so do you have a male and female????

I also have a Bulbine margarethae which is supposed to be a winter grower and it's green like Ben's Bulbine mesembryanthemoides. So should I be watering normally? I've been afraid to water too much for fear of rot!

How do you care for these genera correctly?????

Jealous of your very nice looking dorstenia (dorsteniae?). My d. foetida has developed this cycle- two leaves, one flower. Lose a leaf, lose the flower. Get back to two leaves and a flower, lose a leaf, lose the flower, etc ad nauseum.

ez

Ez - My Dorstenia doetida is the same. Every couple weeks I water way too late and it decides to shed it's nice leaves!

I might cut off the pseudo flowers this time. Have a ton of seeds and nothing to really do with them for now.

Thanks Pagan! :-) you have excellent plants too!! Some tips for cintia: all grit mix, constant wind is best, mine is very happy in afternoon sun. The stem "corks" and shrinks very quickly as the plant grows compared to the corking of other cacti, as only the tops of these plants are exposed in habitat. Also, keep below 90F as these are montane cacti. C and D plants has some for sale now, similar size to the one I have (which is just entering maturity, which for this species means no more spines and new wooly sunken areoles.

Bikerdoc: it depends who you ask whether Bulbines need a completely dry summer dormancy. From what I can find out, most forms of B. mesembryanthemoides do not defoliate in habitat during dormancy, but instead the consume the tips of their leaves and take on a retuse Haworthia-like appearance. I water mine about once every 2-3 weeks when temps reach the low 80s. Maybe at higher temps it needs a full dormancy but CT doesn't really got that hot lol!! maybe Bulbine margarethae is the same, since it is also very succulent compared to most bulbines... Has it been losing bottom leaves? My Bulbine has eaten about 6 of its lowest leaves over the past 2 months.

Mine was in flower when I got it and has since stayed pretty much the same.

I grow all my dorstenias as shade plants after reading that, in
habitat, they grow under bushes. Of course that did not stop me from
experimenting. Last summer I grew the oldest one in full sun and it
looked much better, although slightly coppery. It was very pretty. As long as it is watered
and fed often (weekly drench in the microclimate of my deck), it stayed
vigorous.

Doc, neither of my D. lavranis has bloomed (they are both
only 2 years old). So I don't know, both of them could be one or the
other.

As for my othonnas, I don't know, Doc. If they don't want to go to
sleep, I'm not going to force them. Although, no matter how hot it gets
during the day, we're still getting 16C at night so that might also be
it.

I think my cintia dream will have to wait a couple of seasons, Ben. It doesn't appear to be an easy plant and I'm still mastering my Euphorbia globosa, plus my first two ceropegias. I get a little batty when my ignorance or inexperience kills a plant so I try to focus on one or two at a time.

Pagan

For Dorstenias, their preferred light level is super dependent on their accession/collection # and their habitat, as the different species are highly variable in their light and exposure needs and even populations within a given species are highly variable in their exposure, especially for the crispa/foetida complex.

So, the typical specimen for D. lavrani (from which OOA's stock is very likely derived) appreciates a more shaded exposure than D. horwoodii, which grows fully exposed next to Pseudolithos species such as here:

D. lavrani in habitat:

D. foetida/crispa:

From my own experience, D. foetida/crispa/horwoodii/gigas/gypsophila love full sun once they're adjusted, while D. lavrani/crispa var. lancifola/barnimiana/radiata/zanzibarica like partial shade.

And I agree Pagan, it's not a very easy plant to grow, especially with its slow rate of growth. But worth it to one day see this on my shelf!!! :-P

Very cool habitat photos, Ben.

Okay, next wave. I do this in waves because this is also how I get away with not putting labels in my pots. I take snapshots in spring and then the photos are sorted into folders in my computer--it gives me a photographic record of how each of them have developed (in some cases, died) over the years. The sorting takes time but after years of jaw-clenching at chore-time, I realized it is really worth the effort.

So! To continue...

Anacampseros rufescens. When this starts to get tall, I snap it off and stick back into the grit.

OK, I finally toured my garden with a camera 20 days late. Most of my plants are the old aloes that I have had for awhile and y'all have seen them more than once. None of my plants are very rare or expensive. I know myself and lifestyle. I am a killer when I get deadlines lined up. Things get forgotten. These are just a few of the potted things. You guys are helping me procrastinate through a Sunday. I should be calking my cement wall and painting.

This tray of haworthias was left out in a light freeze and then I had multiple deadlines and I never watered it forever.. I was just over there picking at a few freeze burned foliage. I am amazed how well they put up with me.

I am hoping that these Aloe grandidentatas become lucious starfishes on the side of the planter. I made this planter earlier this spring.

Things planted in my husbands first sculpture (age 10). I just git it from his mom when she went in the old folks home. Yes , I drilled holes for drainage WITH permission. The plants made it through the winter this year. It was a warm winter.

This one survived a 16F cold snap with a few scars but less visible year by year. I am a bad mother.

wow, Mara. Your community pots are always super. I see what you did there---elevating the cereus (?) so it drains faster than everything. I remember that walk of death being significantly more treacherous though?

I do not know about the faster draining. But I can water it more and just let it drain onto the faucaria and to give the cereus more root space since it is a larger growing plant. I also like the look of a domed top on the wide planters. I am making up one now with the road kill cactus raised in the center and the Stapeliad grandiflora all around it. Those two group planters are now almost a year old.

Sedum hernandezii: Chiming in with some feed back. Love that staging.

Thank you, nomen nudum. I was double checking it and I think it's really Sedum furfuraceum. It's very crackled and deep forest green.

Pagan

Yup, Sedum furfuraceum. =)

You know what I discovered, though? Whenever I snap a branch off all the way to the stem, that spot will grow back another branch. This is fine, I'll just have to remember to keep the new branch short. That's not surprising, but out of curiosity, I broke the skin on one spot to see what will happen. Fast forward a couple of months and voila.

My ignorance was all over the yard today, which I had originally intended to spend taking more photos. Instead I was moving yarrows and lychnis clumps and lilies. The dimwit who planted them (me) did not pay attention to how tall they were going to get after the first growing season.

So I have but a few.

Cephalopentandra ecirrhosa. Must remember to slice off that long neck.

You've seen most of my haworthias so no need for reruns. But this is one of my earliest plants, Gasteria armstrongii. It actually offsets vigorously and not as slow-growing as I expected. But once you spot an offset, you should consider removing it immediately because it deforms very quickly especially if it is growing out of the shady side of the parent.

Unidentified insectivore

In my screened pergola, this very welcome tenant

And today, the troop was deployed.

Pagan

A dead pest is a good pest an eaten pest (on the other hand) is even better.

Not a question but how cool/ neat is that pot that your Euphorbia gorgonis is in ?. It does look nice with what it has in it but IMO I'm not getting why E. gorgonis . I mean it's going to be a long long time in that depth sized pot.

A Carol Moore pot I assume ? As it is a Carol Moore you own one of the best heat resistant pots I have ever used.

Question for you ... how did you get yourCephalopentandra to break dormancy?

I can easily move it to get loads of sun time here and have very close to same temps day to day as you... ( Thinking out loud I maybe a bit to light on watering) I also noted your sun screen I don't have a need for and don't use one as items can and are allowed to break inside Over the the past few warmer weeks it's been outside for E X SE AM sun times it also and gets a broken sweep of 100 % with hard shade later PM 3 pm ish to 4 PM ish. I am seeing a little something in there in more than one place but nothing as prominent as yours in foliage it also has less burnt coloring than that seen on your lower fat area. Thanks ahead of time. I also have Operculicarya X 3 ( with a tree hoarding addiction too ) that are progressing very well, do you water your Cephalopentandra the same as you do your Operculicarya ?

Not to derail or off topic your thread a short pic and minor chat for Biker:

Odd things can ( and do) sometimes happen at the strangest times.

In reference to.....

This..

Both sides

Having seen only two spent flowers drop and three leaves there after & sense ( allegedly) ' dormant ' watering is very light with cooler night air to help apx tri weekly watering here On hard sun days it gets Apx 35-45 minutes per day of hardest sun and what ever brightness the rest. As the sun starts to drop it will get more time with the lower but shorter in time sun times which is sadly soon on the way. (Six week cycles are something to adventure)

I tend to agree ( not always but for the better part )that if a plant doesn't want to go dormant, by all means let it grow but do consider that it will also want and need to go dormant at sometime Opposite also apply as these can remain dormant for an odd time as well.

I completely missed that last post, nomen. Apologies for the oversight.

Regarding my Cephalopentandra ecirrhosa: it always ends up in full sun when I put it out in spring together with my other part-shade plants in their summer location. There, the C. ecirrhosa starts breaking dormancy at this time. By the time it gets warmer and tree leaves grow back, it's already in full leaf and in dappled light. It's fairly young, though, and has not bloomed.

I should really water it more often but it sits with my summer-dormant plants and so it misses a lot. My O. decaryi, on the other hand, sits out on the deck with my summer growers and gets significantly more water.

My othonnas are now somewhat dormant although the O. clavifolia is still in full leaf.Still, there is no new growth so I am treating it as if it is dormant.

Wanna see more plants? No? Too bad.

Pseudolithos cubiformis

I have this one!

And this: A marianiae Little Crusty Sphaeroid

A marianiae Lime Drops:

Pagan

For one marianiae herrii that did very well last year didn't do so well this year with apx the same heat as last season and outdoor sunning times as this year. As of lately I renamed it A. marianiae toast sitting inside of a sill with minimal sun with small hopes to do something with it inside under lighting as they are very slow to move.

So much for this idea if you transition them well there shouldn't be any problems during highest heat and UV ray conditions

Here is an A. marianiae hallii that got the same side by side sun as the now called A. marianiae herrii toast.

My preference (for most every Adro I have) is a stronger heat resistant pot that can also be small in size and they stay in them pots until they push them selves out. In example the one in pic can be eons. Some that are a different type of adro are slithly over potted in TC pots. Inside ? Yes, with out any doubts I'd be using plastic. I don't use plastic for any of my Adros if they are to be setting in as many as 12 hours of hard basking summer sun in front of house outside as it's always to warm for plastics here during the warmer summers. Good transitioning each season however wont always work.

Nomen, it's a good thing I decided to be conservative this year and did not move these three outdoors in spring. It was an absolute mess of a spring and the temperatures did not stabilise here until around late June. In your experience, is it just A. marianiae and its cultivars that are this sensitive? I have an A. umbraticola ssp. ramosus and an A. maculatus that both went outdoors as early as May and they are both fine. But a two-year old A. marianiae (I forgot which cultivar it is, photo below) that I also put outside lost nearly all its leaves.

It's growing back green, I think I'll put it in full sun.

Pagan

A. inamoenus ( over potted in TC) doing okay front of house outside this summer

Depending on how they do exiting from under lights next spring season they'll probably only get a 5 hours late day hard sun during summer before finding there way back to the front mid- late August

Not to be a burden to your thread here are some classics that are also offering hybrid versions, less natural but still rarer mutations.

New rule now ? As I ask for a don't ask don't tell rule be set. I cant even imagine what went wrong in cultivating this one that I had adopted two years ago spending most of last season out of a pot.

No plans to date but as I am not really looking for it to flower this season ( Will take em if I get em) I am not favoring it's current creeping dropping/ lanky loose look with some thinner etiolated original parts that are still being offered from this Schlumbergera bridgesii. Can be sometimes hard to find making it also a no ask candidate. Or to say ! It's somebodies lucky day today much like the 60 plus year old of the same this smaller one it's considered as a hoarding plant here.

A small 1.5 yr old single leaf propagated hybrid Schlumbergera

Cristeri Aurea: IMO Kind of neat as it starts new growth with pinkish red leaves turning yellow then to a softer light green.

That unnatural mutation I mentioned is from a cultivating hothouse ( Mutations in nature are a very rare event ) kind of looks like this.