First of all, how do you post pictures here? Second, the link 'effects of glyphosate on tomato' left above by jean001a has a picture of a glyphosphate effected tomato plant and it looks just like mine do. To: dickiefickle, all my garden plants are planted in a garden, in the ground, except for a cucumber and a pepper. One problem I had, which is why I'm having such a bad weed problem, is that when I first decided to plant this garden, my plan was to use the rear-tine tiller owned by my landlord to till all the soil in the garden area, then to till in some bulk combo soil. However, the tiller has both a seized transmission and engine, so its useless. This meant that I had to plant the garden in what was currently a lawn area, with grass and weeds. So I planted the plants just like I would plant a shrub or perennial. I dug holes about 14"-16" in diameter, about 14" deep, then I mixed my soil up and filed these holes, then planted the plants in the holes. Before planting, I didnt spray Roundup on the garden area, because I figured my landlord would want it to be a lawn again in the future, after the garden was picked. But later, she agreed to allow me to spray it, but by that time the garden was 3 weeks old. However, the grass and weeds are still growing, so I first just weed-wacked them, but as the veggies grew larger, I couldnt take the chance of weed wacking the veggies by accident. But there are too many to pull every few days, so i did what I would normally do in an ornamental bed. I first pulled the weeds under the drip line of the veggie plants, then I carefully sprayed Roundup to the other weeds, with the wand very low to the ground, on a non-windy day. Also to dickiefickle: As far as my soil being too moist, the holes I'm growing in are 14-16" deep, and we live on the East coast where we have a drought just about every summer, where it wont rain for weeks at a time. Most watering is done by hand, and I never water too much or too often. Usually every 3 days or so, unless it rains, so the soil is never too wet for very long. However, I planted a Dahlia, a 40" variety called 'Contraste' back on about May 5. It already had a long stem growing out of the tuber, so once I planted it, it immediately was 3" above ground and started growing leaves at once. Then on about May 20, we had an extremely rare 7 day long rain spell, where it rained on and off every day, and was constantly overcast. It actually rained about 3-5 hours per day. One day after the rain ended, the sun came out and some plants were wilting a little initially due to the bright sun for the first time in 8 days, but then most plants perked back up, except for the one Dahlia. It continued to wilt for 8 more days, til I dug down to the tuber, and discovered that it had rotted from the bottom up and was slimy and easily crushed in my hands. ****Anyway, my most important question at this point is: Now that I've pruned the tomatoes back below the yellowing areas on top of main stem and laterals, will those tomatoes grow new stems from the area where pruned like most plants do(2 or more new stems), or will no new growth start where pruned, and only new lateral will grow from between the main stem and leaf branches? How do tomatoes normally react to their stems being pruned?

Agree. leaf miners. They don't pose any real threat to the plants. As mentioned just remove the leaves and/or squish the worm. As for the yellow bottom leaves, that is usually from over-watering, a common problem when using containers as you are. Since nutrients leach out of the pot every time you water you need to replace them regularly and make sure your water pattern is one of consistency - not too much and not too little. Plus there is clearly lots more room in your pot for more soil. The more soil in the container the easier it is to stabilize the watering. Lots of info about all this over on the Container Gardening forum here. Dave

Sounds like powdery mildew. It spreads by rain or if you splash the leaves when you water your plants. Generally it starts at the bottom of the plant and gets higher and higher as the powdery mildew spreads up the plant. When it happened to me, it took about a month before it took over the entire crop. I tried pulling off the lower leaves but it didn't work, so I'm not sure if there's a solution other than tearing down the plant and starting over (hopefully in a new location). I wouldn't plant cucumbers in the same location next year.

Brought about by the Sphaerotheca fuliginea and the Erysiphe cichoracearum growths, fine mold shows up as white, fine spots on the leaves. ... Despite the fact that the parasitic spores don't ordinarily influence the cucumbers themselves, the white development keeps daylight from arriving at the foliage.