Soilent Green, I agree with about want lists having an updated date on it. It is very helpful to know when looking at a list. I have one on my trade page and change the date as I update my trade page for trading, which I usually don't start doing until then end of October every year. At the same time, I continue to add seeds to my list as I have them available for the upcoming year, but leave the old updated date until I am ready to trade. That doesn't stop people from emailing me for trades with a date that is 6 months or more old that states when the trade list was updated. As for wasting time pursing trades with people that are no longer trading or interested in trading, there are some members that do not like to be "cold emailed" from other members to do trades, especially with members that are new or fairly new to the seed exchange, or "cold emails" for trades from members that they have never traded with. They may still have trade lists posted that are old because they will have the same seeds available every year and they just leave the list posted and when they are ready to trade again, they post on the seed exchange about trading. I've been a GW member and trading seeds for more than 7 years now, and I, personally, don't "cold email" members for trades unless they are members that I have traded with in the past, trade with frequently every year, or a member that I trade specific seeds with every year and I let them know in advance of posting for trades and BEAP seeds on the forum, what seeds I have specific for them and what I'm looking for. As for GW deleting members have not be active in the last 2 years, that is not a good idea. GW has various forums on the site, and just because someone is not actively posting on the seed exchange forum, doesn't mean they don't post and participate in many of the other forums on GW. Some members just to private trades between certain members only and they leave a trade and want list posted for those specific members to see. Some people have their trade and want list posted and only do round robin trades, but leave that list posted for those on the round robin exchanges to see and use. And yes, there are some members that have trade and want lists still posted that have been banned by GW, have passed away and just are not on GW anymore. Expecting GW to try and figure out what members are and are not active on the seed exchange forum but are posting on other forums on the site, vs don't post at all, is really just a waste of time on their part. There are far to many members on GW and the time it would take is nothing more than a waste of time on their part. I suggest that if you have been wasting time trying to trade with people by sending "cold emails" to them, that you just work with the members that post on the seed exchange with trade offers, BEAP/SASBE offers and if you have seeds for trade on your own trade page, then post on the seed exchange yourself with the seeds you have to trade and what you are looking for. Experience has shown me that the easiest way to trade seeds is to use the seed exchange forum and the posts on the seed exchange form itself and to post myself with offers and what I'm looking for. There is always room for improvement on any site. And Welcome to the wacky world of seed trading. Fran

Hi My two cents. A definition of terms as related to this forum. Botany particularly in contrast to other sciences such as horticulture,Agriculture,landscaping.Microbiology. Clear definition of a plant.Would assume most interest would lie in vascular plants?? So a definition of this along with a note of the exceptions.Fungi,Lichens Commensuls molds mildews and microscopic.Obviously these could be a forum in themselves lol A guideline for a question within botany rather than Horticulture ,My assumption is that Botany is natural events within the plant world?? Not say manmade hybrids.or culture?? Maybe the basics on how a plant survives and reproduces? Maybe only vascular plants?? Maybe some references to books?? Since there are so many other forums dealing with many subjects a guideline on what type of question to post here?? Gary

"Ashita, I'm no expert tomato grower, but at this hour of the night, I may be the only person online here in the states, so I'll tell you what I've heard, which is that for fruit production the second number should always be higher than the first.in the N-P-K series posted on commercial fertilizers That would be the phosphorous, not the potash:" Uh-oh In many cases you would be correct jll0306, but for tomatoes you are sadly mistaken. Tomato plants use very little phosphorus compared to other flowering plants, it is only needed to initiate flowers so it is important to have in some quantity, but it doesn't take much. "In tomato crops, the requirement for potassium is about the same as for nitrogen in the early crop stages (from seedling through until fruit development). After this, the requirement for potassium keeps increasing with fruit load while nitrogen levels off. While nitrogen is important and is used in large quantities for vegetative growth, potassium is the predominant cation in tomato fruit and has major effects on fruit quality." -Dr Lynette Morgan of the Suntech hydroponic consultants I have posted a link to the full article from which this is taken below, it is hugely informative. @ashita: You are correct in your assumption about potash (K20) the molecule that provides potassium. It is the most heavily used element by fruiting tomato vines and is needed in unusually high quantities if one desires a good harvest. It is needed in a large ratio compared to nitrogen and phosphorus which is hard to find in bagged chemical fertilizers. The good news is there are readily available organic sources for potash, usually taking the form of burned organic matter. Wood ash is a good place to start, providing 4-7% potassium by mass, but if you are really serious about getting a big harvest you'll go for corn cob ash which yields 30-35% potassium! These organic ferts can be added in a tea, but it is best to pre-load your soil with them before you've done your planting. Be liberal with it as it is impossible to "burn" your plants with them like you can with chemical fertilizers. When it comes to your tall spindly issue digdirt is right, more sun exposure will help this problem, but I know that may not be possible. Another solution would be the technique of supercropping, which is the practice of crushing the phloem (the outer veins which carry things downwards) of the stem while leaving the xylem (the inner veins that carry things upwards) intact. This makes for thick, hardy stems that to a great job of holding the plant up and exponentially increase its water-carrying abilities. I have outlined the process in detail and posted pictures of the resulting effects over in my own grow diary: http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tomato/msg1222213220075.html?28 You may find some of my other techniques helpful. A more aggressive nutrient delivery method such as mine can help supplement a less than perfect light situation, but there's no true substitute for more nourishing sunlight. Do your best to get the most of it possible. Good luck and happy gardening! -Zach Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato Nutrition

That depends on the molding...is it attached to the cabinet and separate from the rest of the trim? If so it should match the cabinet. If, however it is at the ceiling and runs into crown around the rest of the room that's the trim color, it could match the trim. For example, my kitchen has 2 rows of crown...one at the cabinet and one at the ceiling. The cabinet one matches the cabinets, the ceiling one matches the rest of the trim in the room. But here is an example where the cabinet trim does not match the ceiling trim even though they both touch the ceiling. [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Medfield Kitchen & Bath Remodelers Mitchell Construction Group Here is an example where they put the crown and the soffit in the same color, making the cabinets appear shorter. [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Fairfax Station Design-Build Firms Daniels Design & Remodeling And here's an example where the crown is used as an accent matching neither. [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Boise Design-Build Firms Strite design + remodel This post was edited by AnnieDeighnaugh on Thu, Aug 28, 14 at 20:20