I'll try to give you some pointers, I have a Panasonic VCR/DVD combo also. Yours is newer so probably a different model. Your machine should take several types of disks. For the DVD-RW, you may have to format the disk before recording. I use DVD+R, which do not need to be formatted, but do need to be finalized after recording. So find your type of disk in the manuel and follow instructions. There should be a section in the manual explaining the types of disks that your machine uses. You will probably push the Functions button on your remote, get a menu and go to Disk Management (that's how I finalize on mine.) ONce you've got the disk ready, it's very easy to record: The record speed (just like on a VCR) has to be set before you start. Push the Mode button and you should get a box on the screen that tells you the recording time on the disk: SP for 2 hours, etc. That's what I use most of the time. If you want to get 4 shows on one disk, you can use the 4 hour mode, the quality will be little worse. Remeber, disks are pretty cheap. Once you have the speed set, and your show is on, just push the Record button. Now, if you're going to record more than one show, you won't be able to finalize the disk until you have everything on it that you want. ONce you finalize that type disk, it's not recordable any more. The exception to this is the RAM disk, which your Panasonic should also use (check manual). You can record, re-record, edit, etc. But they are more expensive. If you aren't saving the shows permanently, you might just buy a few RAM disks and record over them. They don't have to be formatted or finalized. If you want to set the machine to record while you're gone, you have to go through the menus and set it up, just like a VCR. You'll have to read the manual and try going through the menu, can't help you much there. I hope this helps a little, I know that the manual and menus can be confusing, but it's not much different than a VCR once you do it a few times. Good luck.

It would be very helpful if you posted something different. Your IKEA layout isn't enough. We need actual measurements of all walls. I suggest hand drawing your kitchen space without cabinets with each wall/window/door/doorway marked and labeled (including trim) as well as the distance between each wall/window/door/doorway. Label where rack l each door/doorway leads. Then, post a sketch of the entire floor so we can see how traffic flows in and around the kitchen. The Layout Help FAQ has a sample layout. (I'll see if I can find one on my phone but if I cannot find one see the FAQ below. How do I ask for Layout Help and what information should I include? http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2767033/how-do-i-ask-for-layout-help-and-what-information-should-i-include

The comments above pretty well define the difference between a tract (production) builder and a semi-custom. Where I am located, it isn't unusual for the tract builders to have not only their limited selection of plans but to have structural options available (A, B, or C) for each of the floorplans. Those options are chosen at the same time you have your design center appointment to select the finishes for the house. It is still a production/tract builder home. Not semi-custom as their marketing states. All they have done is break down the sales process into two parts: the initial part selling the buyers choice of floorplan on the buyers selected lot within the community and then the upgrade portion at the design center. The sales price has nothing to do with whether its a semi-custom or production product. Some indicators of semi-custom IMO: You aren't in a development, you are on an infill lot. I admit, this could be either custom or semi-custom. You own the lot - could be custom or semi-custom You select from builders floorplans and have wide latitude for changes that aren't pre-designed for you like described in the first paragraph (Option A, B, C). This is the biggest indicator of semi-custom. In these cases the builder has ready access to either an architect or more likely a draftsperson to incorporate the buyers changes into the builders floorplan. The changes can be minor or major in this type of semi-custom. In a semi-custom build there is no design center. You have either some or complete control of the selection of the material finishes (tile, flooring etc). The builder will have preferred vendors for some of those finishes but not others. If you are limited to a very few pre-selected materials, then it's not semi-custom. It's the same effect as having a design center. eg, you go to the specified flooring vendor and you can choose from X for level 1 and Y or level 2 etc. which are from a very limited portion of the vendor's available options. In general, if you aren't paying for the house until the end of the build, it is either a tract builder or a spec house. Otherwise, the builder isn't going to want to build a customized home with his own funds that he has no idea if it will close or not. Naturally, there are exceptions to this, but I find that the method of purchase (end loan or not) is a good indicator. Why? Because if the builder is building with his own funds he has to make sure that the product he is building is saleable. If the buyer has made changes and those changes aren't marketable, the builder will have a white elephant on his hands. That's why they like to control the floorplan changes and material selections in addition to controlling the costs thereof.

The color in my kitchen is BM Prentis Cream. Currently, my living room and dining g room are shades of yellow but I would like to change them to blues or greens. My hallway is small and relatively narrow. I have a coretec lvp flooring in gold coast acacia. These are some colors that I was considering. I am open to suggestions. The railing color will be changing to a neutral brown.