Uneven airflow through hvac registers
jaxo
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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mike_home
7 years agojaxo
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoRelated Discussions
Need help choosing an HVAC setup in my home
Comments (9)Thanks tk03. I understand what you and udarrell are saying. I have a call into a window joint to see if I can get storm windows on my house soon. At the same time, I do need to act on a new system soon, too. So, let's say I get the house fairly sealed up with storms, maybe new weather stripping around the doors if needed. Then, from my OP, which system set up would be optimal for 2700-2800 sq. ft. home with 17 registers (+ 5 more in basement) and which of the dealers has done an adequate job of sizing my needs? Here's what my Trane rep had to say about my questions: "The static air pressure test is not required. Balancing of the dampers can make a nice improvement, without the static air pressure test. The exposed ductwork in the basement can be sealed with foil tape or duct sealer (caulk type or 1 gallon can). Home Depot has those items so you can do on your own if you like. The cost for us to do the duct sealing would range from $250.00 to $500.00 depending how much time it would take. The air infiltration for your home is most likely average, the equipment that I recommended will do the job well. The duct sizes within the walls cannot be modified to increase airflow very easily. The existing ducts that are in your house are typical for the homes in the area. The variable speed furnace will react to the duct work and adjust airflow. How? Electronically it monitors the RPM of the motor and checks the amp rating and speed settings. If it is not moving fast enough the power level is increased to the motor and the speed is increased. The current furnace cannot respond to the ductwork like the XV95. The TRANE XV95 can move up to 40% more air." My response: "I'm just concerned that if I were to make home improvements after purchase (buy replacement windows) that the furnace and/or AC would be oversized for my needs due to higher efficiency, less heat gain/loss from the replacement windows. At the sizes you recommended, would I be in danger of the AC satisfying the thermostat too quickly or not removing the proper amount of humidity if I were to tighten up the house with new windows, thus still leaving me with warm/cool spots in my house?" Again, thanks for your help! - Angrysalad...See MoreHVAC: System overheating and shutting down.
Comments (3)Hey guys. I was having the same problem last week. My Trane heatpump condenser fan motor failed. I went out and got a Dayton motor from WW Granger. It was a 4 wire motor and my orig. GE motor was three wire. so I installed it by taping off the brown wire with white stripe and hooking up the other three. (This is a commonly used method of using a four wire in a thee wire pump.) Also replaced the split capacitor with a new one. After the fan ran for 15~20 minutes it would overheat and shut down. Like you I ran the water hose over the unit to let it drip and it would run forever... I checked all the voltages, etc. and voltage drop accross the contactor and everything was fine. The fan started fine but still overheated. FINALLY, I installed a seperate fan capacitor, 5 ufarrid @ 370v, on the advice of a tech support guy at Granger. VIOLLA! Dont ask me why but now the fan runs at about 35 deg.C in the air stream and stays there. If anyone has a theory about why this worked please let me know. If you want a wiring diagram on how this worked email me @kidshows@gmail.com and Ill scan it into a pdf for you. You have to make a jumper wire. (I used the wire off my old GE motor and just added another spade connector to match the capacitor). Hope this helps you out. Im in Dallas and its already close to 100 deg. and the unit is running full bore with the best cold air I had in months. God Bless and take care. Mark...See MoreHVAC Register Placement
Comments (3)Distance Between Supply and Return Vents. https://www.cooling-heating.net Do not place your supply register and the return vents too close together. The air needs time to circulate around the room and do its job. If the return vent is too close or if the supply register is right next to the door, the air may slip away without actually heating the room. Keep the two separate....See MoreSweating on top of handler located in an HVAC closet
Comments (69)Ray, Less than ideal doesn't imply something won't work, it simply means there are better options if you want a zoned system. I had a single-stage heat pump and fixed-speed air handler for HVAC on the 2nd floor of my previous home. It was a zoning retrofit that provided two zones of control. It worked for 15 years until the heat pump gave out and then for another three after the heat pump and coil were replaced. It was less than ideal. The variable speed two-zone control system on the 1st floor was better. That system wasn't a retrofit; it was a brand new system with all new duct work. I'll make an attempt to answer the air flow question for you one more time, Ray because I don't want you attempting to design or sell someone a system without knowing the basics. A single-speed air handler isn't a variable speed air handler like your beloved Bosch inverter. It produces air at a single flow rate depending on the blower's fan curve. The more pressure drop, the less flow. Consider a two-zone system where the cooling load on each zone is equal (i.e. 50% of the total load.) When only a single zone is calling for cooling, a fixed-speed air handler will direct all the air flow it can produce into that zone. In this case, 100% of fan capacity for only 50% of the cooling load. The amount of air flow won't be fully 100% of the system's normal air flow due to the additional pressure drop compared with both zones open and calling for cooling. So there's an excess air issue. That means too much air, Ray. To deal with the "too much air" issue a bypass is typically installed. It recirculates a portion of the air leaving the coil back to the upstream side of the coil in a continuous loop. The temperature of the air entering the coil gets reduced, and continues to get reduced as the zone approaches set point temperature. There's not enough load on the coil and it's at risk of freeze up because the air flow in a single zone is less than the full air flow rate the single-stage compressor and coil are designed for. That's the too little air flow part. Variable-speed and multi-stage compressor systems are much better for zoning applications than single-stage, fixed-speed systems because they can adjust the air flow and the cooling to match the actual load. By contrast, single-stage compressors and fixed-speed systems are less than ideal....See Moreenergy_rater_la
7 years agojaxo
7 years agoklem1
7 years agoElmer J Fudd
7 years agojaxo
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agomike_home
7 years agoVith
7 years agojaxo
7 years agoVith
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoenergy_rater_la
7 years agojaxo
7 years agoklem1
7 years agoVith
7 years agoklem1
7 years agojaxo
7 years agoVith
7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
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