I love my new double bin trash pullout. It solved 2 problems: 1. My first problem was with one of my dog's - Mocha. He is sort of a brainiac, and over the years has learned how to step on the trash bin pedal to open it up, and then search for "snacks". Heck, he's the reason I didn't get one of those foot pedals for water for the sink. There's no way he can figure out the trash pullout unless he decides to use his teeth on the pull. And he's getting old enough now that his teeth shouldn't be that strong anymore! ;) 2. The second problem was with my husband. It is a war to get him to take the trash out unless it's nearly overflowing - or they simply can't cram anything else into the bin. I swear they would walk a mile around a pile of trash before they would take it outside. Our outside trash is far enough away that it's a pain, but he should really just do it on his way out the door in the morning. The problem with that is, it's nearly overflowing by nightfall or after dinner. Now with 2 bins in the pullout, I can at least tie up the full bag so that no one else can try to cram anything else into it. There is a second one there for them to start on. Mocha is also bewildered where his snack bin has gone to.

Do not buy the Franklin Ice maker. That is what I have and its a piece of junk. Get an ice maker that has a drain. I did not understand the need of a drain when I purchased the Franklin. I will never buy another ice maker without a drain. Here is what is bad about the Franklin: - No matter how much I adjust the cube size it does not make small enough cubes for them to fall out off the freeze grid individually. Instead, they fall out a a sheet of ice cubes that can be broken up easily. This problem causes other problems. - They say it will make 50lbs of Ice a day and holds 24lbs at a time. This is probably true, however, once the tray is half full the sheets of cubes fall off the freeze grid and lay on the shut off switch, thus stopping ice production. - It melts the ICE way too fast. I have to drain the water from the ice tray every other day. Ice makers melt the ice on the bottom to keep the ice fresh. - Because there is no drain, the impurities which will not freeze fall back into the water reservoir. Over time, you will have to clean them out. If the ice maker has a drain, they will be flushed out as waste and not allowed to re-enter the ice maker. Regarding the Summit - Its a pretty good fridge, but its low quality construction and the company will tell you that it may not hold temperature outside. If you want a kegerator that gives you the maximum amount of room, then summit is your best option. Don't waste your money on the SS cover. Its ugly and low quality SS. Even though they say its designed for built-in, it really isn't. It still vents to the back and all they do is add insulation to the fridge. There also is no light and the auto defrost feature does not work well. However, it does hold temperature, so far very well. And in the end that's what is important. If U-line would remove the hump in back of their fridges I would have used them as the kegerator. I am ordering the U-line ice maker since the Franklin is so bad.

There are quite a few threads out there discussing drawers vs roll-out tray shelves (ROTS and a.k.a., pull-out shelves). Pros & Cons of each Opening/Closing... Drawers require one movement to open/close Open: pull open Close: push closed. ROTS, on the other hand, require 2 or 3 motions plus waiting... Open: move out of the way of the doors, open 1 or 2 doors, pull out ROTS. If you want something in the front: move out of the way of the doors, open 1 or 2 doors, pull out ROTS slightly so you can lift the item over the edge. Close: push in ROTS, wait for it to close fully (so you don't ding the doors), close 1 or 2 doors Storage/sides... Drawers have sides the height of the drawer opening. This prevents things from falling off the sides, either onto the floor or into the interior of the cabinet (on the sides). This means you can stack things w/o worrying about things falling as the sides will catch them. It also keeps things from extending out past the walls of the drawer so they don't get caught on the cabinet frame when opening the drawer (Note: Getting caught on the frame is not an issue w/frameless cabinets, just framed...which includes overlay & inset.) ROTS have shallow sides, thus allowing things to fall off the sides and allowing things to hang over the sides of the shelf and get caught on the cabinet frame (which can result in nicks in your frame - experience speaking here!). Adjustability... Drawers are not adjustable to different heights inside the cabinet. OK, this is the one place where ROTS have the advantage. However, with planning and/or organizers you can do almost anything with the drawers and store almost anything in them (dishes, glasses, etc.) ROTS have the advantage here in most cases. Most ROTS are adjustable..but not all are, so check w/your cabinetmaker. Cost... Drawers, in my case were less expensive than ROTS. I have a 27" 3-drawer base and a 27" ROTS base cabinet (the only ROTS cab I have and that I regret) and the ROTS cab cost $140 more than the drawer base. Regardless of your decision on drawers vs ROTS, get full-extension...it's a must b/c it allows you full access to your drawers or ROTS! Soft-close is also nice, but it's a "nice to have" not a "must" (although, soft-close does come standard in some cabinet lines like Omega & Omega Dynasty/Embassy). Actually, I don't recommend soft-close for ROTS b/c the slight delay in closing (as the drawer/tray is gently closed) means having to wait to close the door(s). [Experience speaking here again!] Here are some threads that might be of interest to you (and others)... Thread: Drawers or cabinet under cooktop? Thread: Drawers over pull outs in Cabinets Thread: Kitchen drawers versus pull-out shelves? Thread: Which pull out drawers are must haves? [Some discussion of drawers vs ROTS contained inside the thread]

I have a smaller kitchen so had room for only 2 drawer stacks: 24" and 36". The smaller drawers have the things like plastic storage, foil, Saran and bags, napkins, dishtowels, hand cream, canning jar lids etc. The lowest large 10" drawer has the pots and pans: I stack the lesser used large pans, and skillets, but there is room for the pots without stacking plus a few other odds and ends. The next 10" drawer up has the lids, baking and casserole dishes, mixing bowls and large measuring cups -- the lids and casserole/baking dishes are on their sides in holders. The top drawer is for utensils and silverware -- and is the only place that I think the drawer-in-drawer would be nice to have, so I could have the cooking utensils in one layer and the silverware in another. Lots of wasted space in that drawer. In the pantry I have drawers behind a door. I only made sure that one was spaced to allow for cereal and oatmeal boxes to be upright (and one shelf has my microwave). I could add another drawer or two by narrowing the space between drawers, and I may do so later.