Stained and crowned hardwood floor concerns
I've got hardwood floors that are pretty old in my living room. Part of my remodeling plans are to tear it up and replace all the floors in the bedrooms hallway and living room with the same floor but that's down the line since I wanted to redo the ceiling and repaint first.
My wife put a box in the corner of the living room and it's been there for at least a year and it's been out of the way so I can't remember ever moving it. Well today it got moved and underneath it was a black stain and a buckled piece of flooring. I'm not excited to say the least. Now the bottom of the box was perfectly clean no stains or discoloring so I'm trying to figure out where this is coming from. The floor felt dry as well. Being an old floor some of the finish is wore off and i would imagine if it was wet i would feel something.
The wall around it is clean there is a bathroom on the other side of the wall but I would think there would be more signs than just this from water damage. As far as I know there isn't any pipes under this part of the house and this also borders an outside wall and there's no excess moisture in the soil out there. What could have caused this? I did ask my wife if she had spilled anything and she said she couldn't remember but it's not impossible that her dog could have peed there.
How long should I wait before I rip up the floor to see if it's coming from underneath? If there was a leak should this all get worse?
Comments (12)
User
7 years ago
weedyacres
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Oil stain in hardwood floor
Comments (1)I would suggest applying some finish over the area of concern. Not just the oil soaked spot but a good size chunk about 1ftx1ft. And see if you have issues. If you were staining the wood a different color other than natural you would possibly have an issue....See MoreHardwood floors... Which wood species?/Oil based vs. water based stain
Comments (13)For people looking for a durable domestic hardwood our hickory has been a very popular option. Because you'll be finishing in place your installer should be able to stain any color you want but make sure to see how it looks on the specie and grade you choose. The hickory has a very noticeable color variation between the heart wood and sapwood and because of this will stain a little differently. As far as finish goes we usually recommend a tung oil finish because of the fact that it is spot repairable. This allows you to re-finish or touch up areas where the dogs make their loop, leap, or general jumping around. I know pointers can sometimes be a little high energy and this will allow you smooth out those areas without re-finishing the entire surface like you would need to do with a traditional poly finish. Another option that many large pet owning customers have really liked is our saw kerf texture. This does give more of a rustic feel to the surface but it also disguises many of the "accidental blemishes" that can happen with your flooring. What ever your decision we wish you luck!...See MoreHardwood floor vs. engineered hardwood?
Comments (27)Choosing the right flooring type isn't enough for your living condition. You will have to consider the types of cut: flat sawn, rift and quarter sawn, quarter sawn or live sawn. Quarter sawn and rift & quarter sawn will be best choices, because expansion and contraction is along the thickness of the wood. You will need climate control all year round. 70 degrees at 40 % relative humidity is where you want to be throughout the year. The use of a humidifier/dehumidifier will be needed year round. Although, engineered flooring is more stable than solid. Using the wrong wood specie in your living condition can run the risk of de-laminating with engineered wood. If, the top veneer is more or less stable than it's core and backing. You will experience de-laminating in extreme humidity swings. Take in account of what the engineered flooring is constructed of: mdf or plywood. The width of the flooring will account for how much expansion and contracting also. 2 1/4" strips are the most stable. As you go wider, expect to see more wider seasonal gaps. Proper acclimating is critical, should be performed with a moisture meter. For 2 1/4" strip flooring , sub-floor and flooring moisture should be within 4%. For all other widths 2% moisture differentiation is allowed or should not be exceeded. Don't forget proper expansion gaps, which is the thickness of your flooring, example: 3/4" thick = 3/4" gap. Sub-floor type and condition will affect the performance of wood floors. All this needs to be considered for the proper and successful performance of your wood floors....See MoreConcern with refinishing pre-finished hardwood
Comments (1)"Wondering how concerned we should be with the beveled edges that may not get fully sanded down." It just takes more time....See Moregregmills_gw
7 years agoVertise
7 years agonirvanamike06
7 years agozellycat2
7 years agoglennsfc
7 years agoweedyacres
7 years agoMike:
Here's a photo of a floor with a water stain in a house we bought.
The door at the top goes into the bathroom, and the toilet, which was just inside the room on the other side of the wall, had had a small, slow leak for (apparently) years. It leached out into the hallway shown.
Yup, all the way through the subfloor to the joists.
That's possibly what's going on with your floor.
nirvanamike06
7 years ago
PROSombreuil
7 years ago
PROWeShipFloors
7 years ago
WeShipFloors