Ornamental grass suggestions for zone 6
Byron Followell
7 years ago
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dg
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoByron Followell
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Ornamental Grass, Zone 7a
Comments (1)Sorry for the duplicate message - please diregard - couldn't find my original message until just now. My apologies....See MoreCreating a dune theme... Using grasses. Zone 6/7
Comments (2)Thanks for the reply Donn. That blue dune is beautiful. We plan on using snow fencing and grasses to landscape the front of our swim club. Looks like I will be calling gary at perennial market this winter. Thanks again, PC...See MoreSuggestions for small vine, ornamental grass
Comments (2)There are a few California native clematis. Clematis lasiantha is white to pale yellow, C. ligusticifolia is more white. Just a note on clay soil: there are many California natives that do fine in clay--how else would there be plants native to California areas that have clay soil? Clay soil contains the most nutrients and retains moisture longest. Clay soil is good soil. It's just a matter of planting the right plants at the right time of year....See MoreMoving ornamental grasses in February? Zone 6b
Comments (8)I've moved several kinds of grasses, they aren't as 'unkillable' as all that. You say you don't know what kind they are, some kinds resent moving less than others and some don't do well at all and are better started from seed or plugs. The worst time to move a grass is when its blooming or in the heat of summer which often means certain death. February is a good time. If they are big well established grasses, like miscanthus, pampas grass or some of the muhly grasses you will have a hard time digging them out and they will be too heavy for one person to lift. Its best to divide these into well rooted, gallon pot sized sections. Attempting to move a big grass often ends in failure or a sparse looking ugly plant, so divisions are better. Make sure to get some good healthy looking roots, preferably from the outside growth. Any grass will need some time to develop new roots, sometimes an entire season. Your transplanted grasses may just sit there for the first year not doing much above ground. Its easiest to dig and divide grasses after they have been cut back. I would have the ground prepared and ready to plant directly in the ground if possible, no need for potting up first. Make sure to dig a good hole, make a mound in the center and let the roots spread out over the mound, fill with soil, tamp in well to remove any air pockets and water, it helps to make a moat to hold water around the newly planted grasses. Water when dry, don't overwater....See MoreTina McGuire
7 years agoByron Followell
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoByron Followell
7 years agoTina McGuire
7 years agoUser
7 years agoZachS. z5 Platteville, Colorado
7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
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Byron FollowellOriginal Author