All three of you are correct, but it's not worth the risk to keep them on. Yes they do supply food, but again it's not worth keeping them for the stated reasons posted by others. I left berries on my raspberries, but cut them down as ripeness slowed, and the canes became brittle. It did produce about 200, so leaving 20 or so was no big deal. I could see the primocanes were weak being unable to find light till I removed the florocanes. Fall buds are on the Everbearing primocanes already. They grew 6 feet tall trying to reach over the florocanes. Hopefully they will have some lateral growth now. Yeah this year the florocanes grew all kinds of lateral growth for the 2nd summer crop, I would not forgo that crop ever again. I got 200 berries off of 3 canes. I suspect these primocanes next year will do the same, but they are a lot taller, I'll probably get 300 off the 2nd crop next summer. Plus I have 5 canes now! I have 15 other plants too :) (put in this year).

Oh, now that things are getting back to me; after clean-shaving all the roots and treating with bleach, I also scrubbed the root-stub with a tooth brush under running tap water... As I mentioned many times before, PREVENTION is the best cure! Do examine ALL rooted figs you get from who-ever. If RKN ever get into ones garden soil, it is extremely difficult to eradicate them, no matter how many RKN- trapping-marigolds are planted, RKN-eating-good- nematodes (expensive) are applied, or chemicals used. There is one chemical that nukes the soil (it practically kills everything!). I forgot the exact name. But it SO toxic, that it is now illegal and not available any more.

Hey guys, first of all, thanks to everyone that's helping. I've learned so much in the past two days. Specially Dave and Al...thank you teachers! :) So sorry about in the instrusion, I'm another one with fiddle leaf problems. I think I was sold a sick FLF...the guys just told me that it was in direct light all day long, so I thought the brown spots were justified. Until I got home and realized the soil was really compact...really....compact and soggy...and loads of rocks on top, which probably wouldn't help. So what I've did pretty fast, I went into despair...I've tried to repot it...and..of course I the roots just broke in half, and they were almost black and quite smelly... I didn't have anything around other than regular soil with perlite, so I just moved the lyrata and the now shorter roots too a new dry vase with some brick pieces at the bottom and that soil...the soil it's very loose and didn't compressed whatsoever. Didn't watered since, two days now. So after reading all of your kind info, Tomorrow I'm going too: 1. Clean the remaining roots as well as I can without damaging it more.. 2 .Repot, with 5:1:1 mix...Pine bark, Turf (should I?), Perlite; and some brick pieces in the bottom. 3. Water the lyrata once like flushing, right? And then again.. 4. The bottom leaves are very very rigid almost like they are about to break, I've read one Al's comment about "the end of life" process of these leaves...Should I cut the last leave and put the trunk deeper so it forms new healthy roots? (if this makes any sense at all) 5. Pruning, I was thinking about cutting the top (last picture), but as the bottom leaves are so stiff, maybe they aren't able to produce that much "food" and I should keep the top one for now? (I'm I thinking stupid??) 6. The only I had to cover the pot was sawdust, with which I have been lucky in protecting my plants from pests and mould. Again...in a despair act..should I maintain this? Can you help me please?? I'm based in Sintra,Portugal; very warm and humid location, actually humidity is a problem around here. Any advice is most welcome! thanks!

after transplanting.. and root pruning.. it would be best to provide shade for the plant until it can regrow some of the roots.. to support all the green above ... that yours is yellowing.. indicates the lack of properly pumping roots ... but it sound like you cant move the pot ... if you can.. move it to bright shade ... and if you cant.. then rig up some shade where the pot is ... in stress .. like planting.. digging.. etc.. anytime you interfere with the roots ... the lowest oldest leaves are usually those that are sacrificed to maintain the new growth .. had you provided a picture.. we would probably have noted that first thing ... i like to think of a plant as a delicate balance between the root mass.. and the leaves above .. if you significantly reduce that which is below ... then there is going to be trouble above.. especially in sun ... [and the converse of course is.. if you go to town on the top with no insult to the roots.. jump back.. you may be surprised how fast and otherwise healthy plant can regrow ...] take a quick look at the primer below.. for dealing with trees and shrubs.. and note what section one is all about ... timing in not plant specific .. as gal noted... and i reinforce.. there is a time and a season for everything.. and it usually has nothing to do with our whims .. can you stretch the envelop.. sure ... but i am talking about making it easier on the plant.. and you ... less stress for both ... ken https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub