Finalizing the hood choice... (Best/Zephyr/Kobe) (48/54)
Huntting B
7 years ago
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Joe Henderson
7 years agokaseki
7 years agoRelated Discussions
More help please on a hood for a 48' Blue Star
Comments (12)annettesdh makes some interesting points if I'm reading him correctly. First point is certainly on target: inadequate capture area means a significant proportion of cooking vapors will not be captured, and then they travel merrily around your house. I don't believe however that no matter how large the blower is sized, that it will ultimately do any significant "recapture" of fumes that have escaped the hood. It's true that if you look at it the way we look at bathroom vent fans, which are typically rated by how many times per hour the fan will exchange the entire volume of air in the bath, that you could argue that high flow ventilation will eventually exchange all the air in the kitchen, removing those fumes. I think there are flaws in this reasoning. First, kitchens are rarely small, closed off spaces the way bathrooms are. The likelihood is that escaped fumes will travel far outside the kitchen well before they are vented out the hood (annettesdh actually makes that point by referring to odors in bedrooms, living rooms etc). There's no way that any kitchen blower of any size will pull all the air back out of the bedroom and living room once they've escaped. Cooking also tends to continuously produce more effluent, whereas bathroom ventilation is generally for steam and odor produced over short periods of time, allowing for better capture. I didn't follow the point about 72 degree air outside. I'm unaware of any reference source that supports the arbitrary notion that doubling the blower capacity makes up for an undersized hood. Way too many variables there to make any generalization I believe. Weissman and I have debated make up air many times. I'm still not convinced that, outside of code and very cold climates, it's really needed unless you have an extremely tight house. But, agree with overall conclusion that bigger capture area and lower blower rating are better than the opposite (though I still favor our approach, bigger capture area AND bigger blower rating!)....See MoreBest recirculating air hood?
Comments (20)Berbel extractor hood has the best recirculating technology but currently only available in Germany and UK. In conventional hoods grease is absorbed in filters. Grease particles clog the pores of the filter, and hood performance is reduced in increasing proportions. With the berbel principle grease is accelerated out of the air by centrifugal force, and is effectively separated at two points. The interior of the fan box remains virtually free of grease particles. There are no consequential costs, no unpleasant odors, no vermin, and there is no fire hazard. With berbel the unit can be cleaned with just one wipe, as easy as cleaning a Ceran hob. The stainless steel tray is made of the highest quality stainless steel and thus is dishwasher safe. http://www.berbel.de/int/index.php?id=300351 http://www.berbel.de/int/index.php?id=10...See MoreBest hood (1000 cfm int. blower) - noise and performance?
Comments (4)Your concern with noise level should also focus as much on duct size as you are on sones. What size duct will you have from your hood to the outside? You could buy the quietest hood in the universe, and it will still be noisy if your duct diameter is too small for it. The hoods you are considering say in their specs what size duct they need. Typically for a hood with 600 cfms or more, you need an 8" or 10" duct. For example, the Best by Broan you mentioned specifies an 8" duct. If your duct diameter is smaller than what is specified, you will get a lot of noise through no fault of the hood, as too much air is being pushed through too small of a space. If your kitchen's duct diameter is say, 6", and you cannot switch it out (you said your kitchen is 90% finished), then you will have to lower your expectations for cfms. There are some hoods available that are spec'd for 6" ducts, but not with the 1000 cfms you've mentioned. If you already have an 8" or 10" duct, then your options for a quiet powerful hood are excellent. That Best by Broan hood you cited goes for about $2800. At that price, it should have baffle filters, but instead it has the less expensive mesh filters. I like the Kobe RA02 hood you mentioned which has baffle filters, and costs much less than the Broan. Whether you like Ventahood/VAH or not seems less dependent on its exhaust abilities, and more dependent on whether you like the method for cleaning it versus cleaning a baffle-filter hood. There are people who are strongly pro or con the VAH-cleaning method, so you should go to a store where they have them on display to see for yourself. Here is a link that might be useful: Kobe RA02 Hood at ajmadison This post was edited by akchicago on Tue, Jul 2, 13 at 21:03...See MorePlease recommend your (quiet!) 54" vent hood!
Comments (3)The key to quiet is a remote (roof or in-line) blower with an intermediate silencer. [The following is not an exhaustive list.] Abbaka and Broan/Best/NuTone (also used by Wolf) roof blowers provide quality performance in the blower assembly style that blows air down the roof slope from a low profile housing. Broan (perhaps still) and various commercial companies such as Greenheck provide quality performance in the commercial styles that are called up-blast and down-blast. These later types can be scaled to large flow rates, and may be better in circumstances where large depths of snow remain on the roof. (My Wolf/Broan 1500 CFM blower, however, seems to do OK staying clear in my NH environment on a winter-shaded 5/12 pitch roof.) I am only familiar with Fantech as an in-line blower company playing in the residential market; I have no doubt that their products do as specified. I am only familiar with Fantech as a silencer supplier; I have their 10-inch model. I vaguely recall someone else was now in that market. The use of in-line blower with silencer vs. roof blower with silencer is dependent on how much space one has in the duct path. Blowers and silencers tend to be big units, and require some suspension schemes in an attic space. If an in-line blower is selected, there will still need to be a roof cap, configured in either the form of the Broan/Abbaka roof blower housing, or of a chimney of some sort with a down-blast blower housing-like cover. I'm not specifically familiar with these. Don't forget that no air goes out of the kitchen up the duct that isn't resupplied, and this is the function of a make-up air system (MUA). The MUA system can be as big a deal as the hood ducting system. It is also a safety requirement, and in some locations a code enforcement requirement. Keep in mind that when all is complete, the actual flow rate of the blower will likely be only about 2/3 of the blower's rated flow rate, for reasons I have explained in many threads. And the actual blower flow rate should approximately achieve 90 ft/min (90 CFM/sq. ft.) velocity across the entire hood entrance aperture below the baffles. So scale accordingly. As usual I recommend downloading Greenheck's kitchen ventilation guide and reviewing at least the first 20 pages, keeping in mind that your task is to extrapolate the concepts to your residential situation, not select commercial hardware. http://www.greenheck.com/media/pdf/otherinfo/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf kas...See MoreStan B
7 years agoHuntting B
7 years agoethancremepie
6 years agofriedajune
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoethancremepie
6 years ago
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