I don't know anything about the ants you have in Az. but I have dealt with fire ants here in Ga. for nearly 35 yrs. now. NOTHING kills them except fire ant poison. Boiling water make make them move but by the time it reaches the queen(s) area, it has already cooled. And just so some folks here know, fire ants have multiple inlets/outlets to one main mound. They have also adapted and now have more than one queen in most mounds...so killing THE queen doesn't work any longer. A mound can be as deep as 20'! The only thing I have found that works is FIRE ANT killer, not just regular ant killer. And even then if you continue to use the same chemical formula, they will become immune to it so you need to switch brands/formulas on a timely basis. Grits doesn't work, garlic doesn't work, boiling water doesn't work, swapping spadefulls of 2 mounds doesn't work...they are likely the same colony or at least related!

John, the pesticide mentioned in that very good informational site is Confidor, the brand name one of the many insecticides with Imidicloprid as the active ingredient. It is used as a soil drench because it is systemic. It's much more efficient to have a plant absorb this particular chemical into its system to control pests than to spray over the top. Imidicloprid can be found in a host of pesticides for the systemic control of aphids, mealybugs, whitefly, and scale. Its use, by the way, is well known to increase the population of spider mites and thrips. And before anyone asks...Imidicloprid is one of the very few systemics listed for use on edible crops, including citrus. It's not something that should be used unless you understand the timing of such applications so that the fruit or vegetable can be eaten safely. Again, systemics enter the system of plants, making the sap and other juices toxic to those that might ingest it. Wizzard, an untended scale infestation can kill plants. How quickly that can happen depends upon the species of scale, the species of plant, and the overall vigor of the plant. You chose the best option for your cotoneaster, a horticultural oil. A light spray can really help in getting these pests under control. Scale insects won't be completely killed with one application, but an occasional misting will do the trick. Horticultural oils are something that every plant grower should have on hand, including those who try to grow organically. With oils, it's important to avoid spraying in very warm or very cold temperatures. Gloxinia, horticultural oil is your best bet. Read and follow the directions. Also, I am curious about your kiwi. When kiwi are purchased from a bonafide nursery, it will be clearly labeled as a male OR a female plant. What was the name of the kiwi you purchased? They can be grown in a container for the first year (5 gallon) but won't take kindly to that for much longer than that, I don't think. Don't really know from first hand experience.

Hi Elaine, I don't know anything about the Volck, like how often it's supposed to be applied, etc. The only thing that rids/kills scale, burn roots, and non-chemical is Fish Emulsion. Elaine, I tried the old-fashioned way, using Rubbing Alcohol by rubbing the alcohol over leaves w/cotton balls and Q-Tips..I believe if a plant has few scale, RA helps, but when a plant is infested, something stronger needs to be used. I learned about Fish Emulsion from a woman who owns a citrus nursery in Fl. They've been using it for yrs. An Olive tree I ordered online was infested, minus the ants, but infested nonetheless. I didn't see the scale until it was too late. After the RA didn't work, I used 1 capful of FE per 16oz container of water. Shook sprayer. Then spray entire plant..Since FE is organic it will not burn roots, harm children or pets. I use FE on plants before bringing them indoors for winter, too...it works as a preventative to scale, kills them, and a last foliar feeding. BTW, it'll be 3 yrs this winter since my olive had the scale..I have to say, this summer I spotted a few on the olive again, gave it a spray, they're now history. Hopefully it'll be another 3 yrs before/if they return, but I think Olives are scale magnets. You can find FE at nurseries, hardware stores, online nurseries or Ebay. Good luck, Toni BTW, hosing helps to a degree, but those suckers tend to hand on for dear life. LOL

You can use Amdro fire ant bait in your non-edible garden areas with great success. A VERY small amount broadcast over large areas does the trick, as does a gentle application on a mound per mound basis. Follow the directions on the container or from your extension service. Also, many companies are making an organic ant bait with Spinosad as the active ingredient. It can be used anywhere, including vegetable gardens, etc. Baits need to be applied carefully, so that you don't create a panic in the ant population. The product needs to be taken into the depths of the colony, where it will eventually be passed around to all, including the young and queen.