Central Florida & hydrangeas?
suncoastflowers
7 years ago
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OT: Central/S. Florida...SALE!!!
Comments (5)I am not even going to click on that link Kylie. Next thing I know is send my daughter shopping. Good thing that she does not have time as a full time working mom of the 2 wonderful grandsons she gave us. AND hubby still in Korea till summer which had turned into a 3 year tour :-( She always means well. Collects plants on her natur hikes or seeds...then has no time to ship them. But the way she manages everything and raises the boys, I admire her constantly and it is easy to do without. As long as i know it is not ME putting on more burdens on her already loaded day. So back to the store to buy Banana's and fruits lol Lucy...See MoreCoast Redwood in Central Florida?
Comments (34)" I wonder how one would do in pure muck soil where taxodium grow, if inland enough where saltwater flooding isn't a problem." Not well! It would last about a week in summer before the root rots would take it out! In the rest of the southeast where they do grow, they definitely only grow on well drained soils. I have had one die from root rot. In spite of being hexaploid, they are not invincible. FWIW, there's a 'trick' about the PNW - coastal CA climate. I saw rhododendrons almost in the bottom of swales at the old Greer Gardens in Eugene, OR.* You would NEVER see them growing somewhere like that in PA, NJ, or MD. But...the time plants like rhodies and redwood are most susceptible to root rot organisms is in the summer. That's when most of those disease organisms grow best...at temps >= 15C. I see redwoods in the native environs growing in soil that appears year round damp, but guess what? It's only going to be inundated with water, during California's wet winters! Likewise with the rhodies that would experience wet (but not underwater, mind you) soil conditions at Greer...only in winter! There's just NO WAY for Eugene to have 3" of hot wet rain in late July, on a single day, as we can have! (or, now that I think about it, at Sonoma Horticultural Nursery, which is called something else these days, the same is true. Although Polo did put some rhodies on the lowest plains of his property in impromptu little raised beds. That might be necessary because he was so mild in winter, root rot organisms could still grow well during the wet season.) Now that a nursery has supposedly grafted Sequoia onto Metasequoia, maybe people in the southeast can plant them in poorly drained soils with abandon. We'll see. * - although, TBH, it wasn't much to see and not even as nice as the peak of NJ Rarefind around the time Hank died in 2009, I'm glad I got to see it in 2011 and meet the famous Mr. Greer. Greer might have had rarer, more tender cultivars in zone 8a, but Rarefind had just more plants, and better displayed, period, in their 6b garden....See MoreBlooming In Central Florida
Comments (2)They all look very nice. ASB should develop the broccoli look soon too. Your yellow-pink ER picture reminds of a hydrangea flower arrangement that I purchased for someone else's celebration or whatever. All the blooms were yellow...ish (maybe they used colored ink for all I know). Could have been very early blooms from white-colored blooms. I have one lacecap in a protected location that is in the broccoli stage. The oakleafs however leafed out but are not ready to open the flower buds. Ditto the paniculatas. Some unprotected Macrophyllas are leafing out from the base after all the weird snowy weather we had but others look ok, just not ready to open flower buds either. Enjoy!...See MoreHydrangea woes
Comments (6)Very likely. Normally, they require 1 gallon of water per watering in the Spring and 1.5 gallons in the Summer here in Texas. But in sandy soil, the soil needs to be mixed with organic compost and they must get 50% more water than in regular soils. 3-4" of mulch and a location that is not windy will also prevent the moisture from evaporating quickly. As usual, newly planted shrubs will wilt a lot in the summer but they will recover on their own by night or early morning if the soil is moist. If unsure whether you need to water, insert a finger to a depth of 4" and see if it feel dry or almost dry. If so, give it 1.5 gallons of water or more. If it feels moist or is wet then do not water. You can start a watering program by testing the soil early in the mornings (at the same thing approx.) for 2-3 weeks every day. When the soil feels dry or almost dry then water it and make a note on a wall calendar to note that you watered on that day and how much (1.5 gallons, etc). After 2-3 weeks, review the information written in the calendar and average the results so you get an idea of how often you had to water (for example, once every two days, once every three days, etc). Then set the drip irrigation or sprinkler to deliver 1.5 gallons on the same frequency (every 2/3/etc days). If your weather changes a lot or say the temps go + or - 10-15 degrees and stay there, do the finger method again for 2-3 weeks to see if you need to tweak things. In the Summer months, increase the amt of water per watering and in the Fall -when temps go down- return back to 1.5 gallons. Since your shrub will not go dormant until Jan-Feb, continue watering during the winter, especially if it is dry but I tend to only water them once a week or once every two weeks. Again, use the finger method to guide you....See Moresuncoastflowers
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agosuncoastflowers
7 years agosuncoastflowers
7 years agosuncoastflowers
7 years agoluis_pr
7 years agosuncoastflowers
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agosuncoastflowers
7 years agoluis_pr
7 years agosuncoastflowers
7 years agoNancy Craig
7 years agojhanifan
7 years agoNancy Craig
7 years agoluis_pr
7 years ago
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