Time to plant...tired of trying to get front garden "right"
caroline94535
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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Front Yard Garden Gets Local Professional Photographers Attention
Comments (33)Yes, he told me what he does and about his current exhibition of his work in our City Hall and his website were he posts his work. He gave me a flyer for it and everything. He told me he was a professional photographer. I would think that a professional photographer makes money off his work even if he had said nothing else to me. Personally I am very flattered if anyone wanted to take pictures of my roses. Its no effert in a case like this to share and I think both of us, the photographer and I, have benifitted. I get to see pictures of my roses and garden much better than anything I could ever do and he got access to my garden which really does have very beautiful roses. And he did not ask to go into my garden. I offered because its nice to share the beauty of the garden sometimes....See MoreTrying to avoid fungus gnats this time
Comments (13)The gnats don't do any damage. A heavy infestation of the larvae, however, will damage plants as they are down there gnawing the roots. The problem is - and you saw that with your last go-round - no matter how many of the adults you trap or kill, they've already laid eggs and the larvae just keep coming. I don't much care for MG or most pre-bagged potting mixes, but these days I can't seem to get decent peat moss at all. It all seems too fine textured and dusty. You can add pumice, if you can get it, to your soil mix to improve drainage. It is water-retentive, but helps to maintain aeration as well. You can get it fairly inexpensively as Stall Dry from a feed store. It needs to be rinsed, it is crushed and very dusty. Otherwise use the coarsest perlite you can find. But back to treating your plants, if you want to save them. One option is Bt-israeliensis available as Gnatrol. Follow the directions. It will take about 3 weeks. It needs to be Bt-i - not the "regular" Bt, that's a different strain. Gnatrol is the right one, though there may be others. Follow the directions - I'm pretty sure you have to apply it every 5 days for at least 3 weeks. And you still need to sterilize all your surfaces and pots and tools to be sure you're going to start out gnat-free after whatever treatment you choose is done. There are several Bonide products that contain Imidacloprid - an insecticide that I am pretty sure is NOT organic, but it is effective. Just follow the directions on the label. I have not been able to locate a specific pyrethrum product to kill fungus gnats, but according to the U of CO, what you want is: The most effective treatments are those that are persistent; killing adults for up to three days. A number of pyrethroid-based insecticides, with extended persistence, are available for use on houseplants including those containing the following active ingredients: bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, permethrin, and lambdacyhalothrin. There used to be something called Ecotrol? I think? That would have fit that bill - but I don't think it is made any more. It probably IS in your unopened bag of potting mix at this point - those bags always have holes and tiny tears in them SOMEWHERE. So I would remove that from the area - like into a shed or the garage, on a porch, or even just set in the yard somewhere, but away from the area. You can solar sterilize it later. You really COULD do it in your kitchen oven, but its a royal pain, and it smells to high heaven. That much potting soil is likely to stink up your kitchen for a week or more. After you've completed whatever course of treatment you have chosen - and it must be said, complete disposal of all plants and the soil they are in ought to be considered - you still need to sterilize everything. Clean all your pots and tools and surfaces to get rid of all loose debris and dispose of it. Then sterilize......See MoreI just can't get this gardening stuff right... What's wrong?
Comments (12)Start with a good reliable soil test for soil pH and major nutrients and dig in with these simple soil tests, 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drainsâ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. to see what else might need be done to start making that soil into something that will grow plants that will produce edible fruit. The people at your local office of the University of Minnesota Cooperative Extension Service will be able to help as well. Here is a link that might be useful: UMN CES...See MoreLet's try it one more time...
Comments (5)Ed, I'd consider 3 by 8 instead of 4x8. Better yet, 3 by 12, since your boards are 12 foot. I had the 4x4 beds first and was constantly circling around them to do stuff, especially in the early part of preparing and planting. I found it irritatingYou can step over a 3 foot width. Right now I have a 3 foot wide, what i call, growing strip that edges the south and east side of my (small) yard. I just have a stepping stone about every six or 8 feet so I can step across. My growing bed is surrounded by the sidewalk on the outsides, which is kind of nice. I can stand on the sidewalk and tend to that side of the garden. This is my first year at this house, but nobody has bothered it so far. Gardens are great therapy for helping to heal the greiving. Hope it goes well for you....See Morecaroline94535
7 years agocaroline94535
7 years agosally2_gw
7 years agoUser
7 years ago
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