Toad, I'm sorry to be so blunt, but you need a little attitude correction here. You do not come onto an internet forum where participants are sharing their knowledge and experience with you for free, and yell at them for not telling you what you want to hear. You also do not denigrate them by telling them they live in the wrong area, nor by waving your "professional" in their faces. Nor can you by demand conjure up a person with the right opinion located exactly where you want them. For what it's worth, you have heard from some very accomplished professionals above, and also from some knowledgeable do-it-yourselfers, as you might have known had you researched the forum a bit before posting. Furthermore, some professionals that you find on the ground are idiots, or brown-nosers who will tell you anything you want to hear so you'll hire them. If you want people to help you on the internet, then politely answer the questions you're asked, and try to open your mind to the answers. Also, don't forget to say thank you, even if the advice isn't quite what you expected. Participants come here to have fun, and being insulted and talking to someone who has a brick wall for a brain is no fun at all. So such posts are usually left to sink without further responses down the forum into oblivion... which is what was starting to happen to your thread before you bumped it up again this morning. Now, I'll try one more time to frame IB's question so that you'll understand its importance: Is it really necessary to raise this patio and if so why? The patio may in the end be nice and practical, but if it is raised it will look like a sore thumb and if surrounded by concrete blocks it will be butt-ugly, no matter where you live or what you plant around it. KarinL

Most, if not all, hybrid teas require spraying with fungicide in our humidity. Some need to be sprayed every 2 weeks, but some can be sprayed monthly or less. There are some that, no matter how much you spray, will still suffer from fungal issues in our high humidityâ¦Angel Face and Chrysler Imperial come to mind off hand. If you use the Bayer brand fungicide spray (I believe its official name is Bayer Advanced Disease Controlâ¦just the fungicide spray, not the one with insecticide included), it is a cure, as well as, a preventative. By using it, you can wait until a rose starts to show signs of blackspot to spray (infected leaves wonâÂÂt turn back green, but the fungus will be killed). If you use a spray that is a preventative only, more frequent spraying will be necessary to combat fungal problems. Spraying a chemical fungicide is not difficult, but it is a chemical you are spraying in the environment. If you want a chemical free garden, there are organic alternatives, but they usually are not as effective in treating and preventing blackspot in high humidity climates. Many gardeners use chemical fungicides, but many are adamantly against it. You will want to do some research and make your own decision on that. As far as antique roses, you wonâÂÂt get the high centered exhibition form or as long a vase life from them. There are some charming antiques that would be great, disease resistant performers in your climate, though. Teas, noisettes, chinas and polyanthas would be good ones to look at, but again, the form, bloom size and vase life are different from moderns...and most of the teas and noisettes will get huge in your climate. You might want to consider some of the antique climbers for your fence and get hybrid teas as your shrubs or vice versa to see which you prefer long term. I was originally a hybrid tea fanatic, but have really come to appreciate the beauty and ease of the antiques lately.

Oh, how I wanted my natural bluestone patio...well, it now looks anything but "natural." It's a hot mess! Original landscaper installed and used polymeric sand because that was "best." He recommended not sealing it. Or, as he said, "Let it sit a year and then seal it if you want to." Very shortly after installation, stones started turning orange or had deep orange/rusty spots developing like a rash. The polymeric sand grout started popping up like worms after a rainstorm by year two. Hired a new hardscaping/landscaping company who--at year three of the patio--power washed it, swapped a few stones and tried to remove some stains, installed a new type of polymeric sand (which is supposedly better for the larger gaps the earlier landscaper used), and sealed it. First, the power washing did leave what looked like swirls of gray "graffiti" on some areas, but that seemed to go away with sealing. Until it rained, I wasn't sure they had yet sealed it, but it was evident when water beaded up and remained on the surface. After it dried, white patches appeared all over the stones. Reading how this can also occur with sealing concrete pavers, I'm now wondering if that composite deck idea was better! All I wanted was a beautiful, natural bluestone patio. I've stepped on countless university and college walkways that do not have these issues, and that is the look I was going for. How do they achieve such beautiful patios and walkways without the issues we homeowners face? I know they don't use polymeric sand and their "deep pockets" must be able to afford the best stone and best installers.

Considering that when stop sign pavers were popular Tupac was still alive, I'd say you (or whomever installed them) got a lot of value from them. There were a lot of practices we did in those early, dark days of pavers that we don't do now because they cause the problems you have - wood bender board as edging, no border on a small footprint paver, etc. And a 2x as a step edge is bonkers even for back then. Here are my thoughts: agree w/ Yard on the tree root issue. Pulling up the pavers and removing the whole root is ideal, but it takes skill to re-lay pavers to tie into an existing surrounding patio. Just that is probably a full day for a skilled crew, especially because on an old patio it's like pulling a thread on a sweater - you have to cut it off somewhere or you unravel the whole thing on the step, I'd suggest something like a Techo-Bloc Rocka step (however many are needed for the length of the edge). It's easy to place and level, will do a great job of retaining the landing above, and when you have the budget to replace the patio they can be reused. Because they only weigh around 350 lbs, they can be wheeled into existing landscapes with machinery. I'd still consider budgeting for replacing the patio on the sooner side. It's in rough shape, it could be prettier, and it could be more functional. Based on the agapanthus in the foreground I'm assuming you're someplace where the weather is good for being outdoors most of the year, so this could be a wonderful extension to your home. As far as a more suitable material, it all comes down to installation. If this was a concrete or stamped concrete patio, that tree would've cracked and heaved the slab and repair wouldn't even be on the table as an option. A local landscape designer can recommend the best materials and layouts to fit your style and your budget.