It looks like the soil is wet in some areas and dry in others.

How often do you water and what direction does that windowm face?

Thanks very much for your reply. I water it about once a week with a splash of water - I'm terrified of overwatering plants as I've done that in the past! It was right next to a window as I thought it would like lots of light, but I've now moved it to further back in the room so it's not near direct sunlight.
Perhaps I'm not watering it evenly enough? Do you think that's why the leaves are brown - because that bit of the plant isn't getting enough water?

A splash of water isn't good. You need to be flushing the soil regularly. The pot does have drain holes, right?

To flush the soil, you need to water so 10-15% comes out of the drain hole. You do not want to let the pot sit in the collected water in the saucer. Discard that immediately.

I agree with Dave. You have to water thoroughly or the plant will suffer. I must say it doesn't look too bad so just flush it when you water and test the soil to see when it needs water instead of just water every week. If you stick your finger in a few inches down and it feels dry then that's when its time to water.

You can see why Dave offered his suggestion if you consider how animal tissues respond to curing salts. The salts actually pull water from cells because water tends to move from low salt concentrations to higher salt concentrations. Plant cells respond in similar fashion to an excess of salts. If you don't flush the soil regularly (preferably as you water), all salts from fertilizer solutions and tap water accumulate in the soil. As salts accumulate in the soil (solution), it makes it increasingly difficult for the plant to absorb water because of the 'pull' of the salts in the soil (solution) - until eventually it can't.

If there are no indicators of an insect infestation, odds are extremely high that you have an issue with root health. Those issues are usually too wet, too dry, a high level of salts in the soil (solution). W/o more info, there is no way for us to determine which it might be, but you should be able to eliminate over-watering if the soil is not moist when you water. It might be too, that the soil gets so dry, water isn't soaking in. Peat becomes hydrophobic (water repellent) when it dries beyond a certain point. Sometimes when water is applied it flows across the surface of the soil and disappears into the crack between the soil and the pot walls ........ and out the drain hole, with only a tiny fraction of what was applied making its way into the soil. That's not a diagnosis - just something with the potential to cause the conspicuous symptoms.

Al

Thanks for the help everyone. Excuse my ignorance - but please could you explain what 'flush' actually means? Thank you!

Also, how regularly do you think I should be watering a plant like this?

I've also noticed that the smaller leaves underneath are getting really dried out

You might have a mite problem, and while you're inspecting for mites, check for mealybug and scale as well.

When flushing the soil, you should saturate the soil and let the planting sit for 10-15 minutes before you pour room temp water equal to at least 10X the volume of the pot through the soil slowly. This should dissolve and flush most of the harmful salt build-up from the soil. If you can't use enough water so at least 15-20% of the total volume of water applied exits the drain hole (there is a drain hole - yes?), you should flush the soil as I described every 4-6 weeks. Generally, it's a good time to fertilize after flushing the soil at 4-6 week intervals. More on fertilizing if you have questions, but it's an essential part of maintaining good vitality in potted plants.

If you think your plants will suffer due to a prolonged period of saturated soil after you flush, we have more to discuss - if you're interested.

Al

Flushing means you add enough water so 10-15% comes out the drain hole. Discard any collected water in the saucer.

As Al said, flushing removed salts from the soil that build up over time and hinder root function.

Water when the soil feels dry a couple inches down (stick your fingers in) or when soil at the drain hole is dry.

It's impossible to tell you exactly when to water because your choice of soil, how much light it recieves, etc are all factors.

Does your pot have a drain hole?

Hi,

Yes - the pot does have a drain hole. I didn't know you were supposed to water pot plants that much as I thought overwatering would be a problem, but I will give that a try. Is this is the same for all pot plants? I also have a fern that's wilting severely and wonder whether I need to do the same thing.

Tips on fertilising would be much appreciated too!

Thanks again

If you can't water to beyond the point where the entire root/soil mass is saturated w/o having to worry your soil will remain saturated for periods so protracted root health and function will be negatively affected, you're leaving a LOT of potential growth, health, and often eye appeal lying on the table. When using soils you CAN water to beyond saturation w/o concern for root health/function, fertilizing efficiently and maintaining close control over your supplementation program becomes a snap.

You can gain some relief by using a little science to help you 'trick' more water into leaving the container, and you can read about how to do that by following the link I provided. Ideally though (for your plants), you'd be considering working toward a medium that is forgiving enough to allow you to water correctly.

Al

Regarding the fern, they like moisture and humidty. Yours sounds too dry, yes.

Hi again everyone,

I tried the flushing technique and this has worked really well on my houseplants, including the ferns, EXCEPT for the palm!

Even more of it's leaves are drying and dying. I've moved it to a shadier spot further away from the window as before it was by the window and I thought the direct sunlight might be affecting it - but it's still dying! I have a similar smaller plant - that I think is the same species - like one of these.

It's also drying out and dying, the leaves are drooping severely.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Ellie

For its intended purposes, the flushing worked, just that it wasn't prescribed as a cure all. The only harm flushing could do would have to be listed under the general heading of over-watering. Did you wait until there were indications the soil was approaching the point where it wasn't holding enough water to satisfy the plant before flushing?

If flushing the soil and a subsequent period of soil saturation negatively affected the plant, there's definitely a soil issue that needs resolution. Also, I'm not sure if you read the link I left on May 5th or not, but in it is described several techniques that help to reduce the volume water a soil holds and mitigate the limitations imposed by excessively water retentive soils.

Al

It looks like an Areca Palm Chrysalidocarpus lutescens which are very easy to field grow in Florida for cheap mass market sales but are very hard to grow as houseplants because they want more light and humidity than found in most homes. They are not even close to the easiest indoor palms. They are very susceptible to spider mites.

Thanks all. I have suspected that these are not great houseplants - I bought it from Ikea and I'm sure they made sure it would like great for people to buy, but it clearly isn't happy being in the home. I can't see evidence of spider mites.

But it won't be getting as much light as it would if it was outside, of course, and there isn't humidity in the house. It's sad - if I'd have known I wouldn't have bought the plant!