I have a vinyl pergola and it has vines on it all summer. When I take down the vines, I simply spray it down with 409. I let the 409 sit for a few minutes, then run a very soft brissel brush all over it. Then I hose it down. It is rare that I have to pay any special attention to a given area. I clean the outside vinyl on all of my windows the same way, about twice a year. I've been in my house for 32 years and that vinyl is looks new.

I prefer to spray cuz I'm lazy :) But I do understand the overspray issue can be difficult and if it's not a huge area, you can easily do a brush, you just have to work a bit harder. You might look for a sash brush, which is nice for nooks and crannies...it's a round brush that comes to a point in the middle, kind of like a pencil does (if that makes sense) verses being flat or flat with an angle. If your metal is basically flat, you can easily roll it. I always just wire brush, and if it's just a little bit by hand isn't a big deal. The sanding is to smooth out your wire work if you have to do a lot of it. If the rust isn't bad and you don't go nuts with the brush (scraping up the iron) You won't need to sand. Primer is something I never skip. It's your long term fix, and many good primers seal well so you would be sealing the metal from future issues, but that said, rustoleum is a great paint for this type of thing and seems to hold up well. I've done metal with and without primer and while the primer jobs always hold up long term much better, the rustoleum alone holds for a few years if the initial problem you're fixing isn't a bad one. Be sure to go beyond your rust areas about an inch or two on all sides as rust is one of those tricky things that can hide in areas near the actual "wound".

There's many small bathroom cabinets that would fit an 11" wide ledge: World Market: https://www.worldmarket.com/product/white+wood+maryella+bathroom+medicine+cabinet.do?sortby=ourPicksAscend&page=2&from=fn Overstock has a nice 10" deep cab but you'd need to ask if it has a finished back: https://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/Fresca-Allier-White-Bathroom-Linen-Side-Cabinet-with-2-Glass-Shelves/10650332/product.html?recset=1aea6085-0216-4ee9-9444-d620e7397fb5&refccid=SXKOCAHKGTK3RBSCINTA3V2OEA&recalg=872,873,839&recidx=1&keywords=small%20wal Amazon has one that's bamboo: https://www.amazon.com/Cabinet-Features-Adjustable-Interior-Shelves/dp/B073CF5LYT/ref=sr_1_30?ie=UTF8&qid=1500490426&sr=8-30&keywords=small+wall+cabinet+for+bathroom

Mostly that. :-) The tree roots you're not going to be able to do much about quickly; they'll rot over time and the soil will...become even more uneven, actually. Add a quarter inch of soil at a time in low spots to bring it up, repeating every six weeks in areas with grass to give the grass time to adjust. Areas that are currently bare can be leveled immediately but, as always, count on some re-leveling as it settles. Be sure to use top soil without much or any organic matter and don't use compost! Compost will rot away to nothing eventually and leave you with uneven soil all over again. Soil tests can be done immediately as well, just make sure not to get any wood chips or bits in the test. I can and will read Logan Labs and will generally at least give a try on others, but don't make any promises. Amendments aren't recommended during seeding or on very young lawns, so you're going to be limited this fall except in emergency conditions. New seed will require watering three to four times a day, even to the detriment of the existing grass. Fortunately, it doesn't require much water, but it does demand to be kept damp at all times until it sprouts, and for any mix with bluegrass in it, that can be a solid month. I do recommend bluegrass because it's a nice, self-repairing grass. And I don't generally recommend professional services without a lot of research because...well, a lot are less than professional. :-)