I would advise waiting until the soil is suitable and do it right the first time. Those roots will hold longer than you think. Due to the wettest year in recorded history last year, I could not get mine in until June. I thought it was a waste of time and effort, but was I ever wrong. Those plants flourished like no other first year asparagus I've ever planted--they grew over four feet last year and we found dozens of harvestable new shoots on them today!! They too were bought at Walmart. My high-end mail order roots that received the most diligent care did not thrive nor survive. You never know.

Hi Emmaclark, Welcome to Garden Web and The Plant Exchange! You have no email link on your member page, thus no way to email you. To set up your email link, just go to the bottom on any page here, and click on Member Pages Then click on Edit your Personal Information, Page, and Preferences You will then probably be asked to login in again. Then check the box Allow other users to send you email via forms at our site. For ease in trading you should check the box to show email addy to Members That will place a link on your member page, making it handy for members (potential traders) to reach you in the future. While there editing you might want to also place your state abbreviation in the one box provided for garden zone and location. (see I am zone 5/6 S In) It is beneficial info to have when trading for many reasons. Additionally, there are some traders (myself included) who often do not respond to many posts where the location of the OP is unknown. By putting the state abbreviation in your zone box, it will be listed in your Member Page, and it will also automatically be displayed each time you post. I see you have checked the box so that follow up replies will be emailed to you. I'm not sure if your lack of email link hindered then coming to you or not. Anyway, to email those who have posted to your thread, you can click on their member names here in the thread, and that will take you to their Member Page, and a link where you can email them. You won't however be able to email member name thelazygardener, as he is like you, and has no email link on his/her Member Page. Happy Gardening and trading. Sue ...chemocurl

Hi ltilton, I guess you mean, if someone was to Harvest each and every spear as soon as they were of edible size,you could just do that perpetually ??? That of course sounds crazy, but even if it were true, the act of planting the bed with other vegetables,before the crowns start producing spears, and then the spears cut down as needed (the same as any other weed), any spears that came up could be snapped off and chucked into the compost pile. Viola, even the "weeds" are a blessing. Acton_John, If the land was available for me to grow crops, I would and could,.......I would treat them as weeds and plant French Intensive/Bio-Dynamic..... "Square Foot Style" = means: plant something in every square foot, it won't be long (if you don't allow them to be energized by the Sun), that you will be rid of them.

I doubt you did something wrong. Those little over-the-counter soil test kits are just that way. Most people I know who have used them also get pale test results even in soil we believe should have more than adequate nutrient levels, so I kinda take the paleness with a grain of salt. Also, be sure you are looking at them soon and deducing the color. The longer they sit, the more the color will fade and that can give you an inaccurate reading. I didn't want to cause you undue concern over adding a handful of lime. It is just that every one of us has soil that differs from other folks' soil, so we have to be careful not to add anything that might negatively affect our soil pH or nutrient levels. A lot of damage is done, unintentionally, by new gardeners (and sometimes by older, seasoned ones too!) adding some of this and some of that because someone told them to do so without them actually knowing if their soil needed to have that substance added to it. Some folks in OK have very acidic soil, some have very alkaline soil, and some sit squarely in between with neutral soil. I just believe it is important to know whether your soil needs something instead of just adding it because someone said to. I'm sure the guy you were watching on TV is a wonderful person and a smart gardening expert, but that doesn't mean his recommendations are right for every person in the state, depending on what sort of soil they start out with. Folks like me with very alkaline soil and/or with soil naturally high in calcium wouldn't and shouldn't add lime. That's just the point I was trying to make. One way to figure out what will work best for you would be to add the lime to some holes and not others (preferably with all other things being equal) and then see if you see any difference at all in plant performance. The way I have found what works best for me with my soil and growing conditions has been to try many differnt things, regularly using methods that work and discarding those that don't. Don't sell your native soil short. Just because it has not yet been amended doesn't necessarily mean it isn't great soil. Even my crappy red clay had a lot going for it when we bought this place---it was high in nutrients, but just had texture/tilth/drainage issues due to a lack of organic matter. And, of course, it has been a constant battle to keep the pH as low as I want because our local water is high pH also. So, all we really had to fix was the organic matter to fix the clay and that's not a hard fix. Trust me, that's relatively easy compared to starting with poor sand, for example, that is low in pretty much all nutrients....and filled with root knot nematodes on top of that. In my lifetime, I have seen people add all kinds of weird stuff to their tomato holes, and I haven't felt compelled to copy what they were doing because I couldn't see that it made a difference. Generally a lot of what people do to their soil to make their tomato plants happy is more about them than it is about their soil. Even in our earliest years when our soil was nowhere near as well-improved as it is now, we got incredibly good plant growth and great yields, so I mostly just tried to add enough organic matter to ensure the soil would drain well and didn't worry or fret about this nutrient or that one. When you consistently add organic matter to your soil, the nutrients pretty much take care of themselves. It sounds too good to be true, but it is true. Epsom salts may or may not be helpful depending on the soil you're starting out with. Just be sure to use the recommended amount if you choose to use it. Sometimes people think that if a certain quantity is recommended, then they'll use twice as much because it will be twice as good. Instead, they sometimes overdose their plants. Remember that nutrients all work together in balance. If you have an excess of one nutrient, it can interfere in the plant's ability to take up and use other nutrients. I try to add lots of compost and steer away from adding one particular nutrient or another specifically to avoid getting my nutrients out of balance. The use of epsom salts won't really affect how your soil looks. It is just a water-soluble nutrients the plant roots can take up and use. I don't bother with soil tests much. I just watch my plants. If they look happy, are growing well and are producing well, I assume my soil has all it needs to feed the plants what they need. If the plants are unhappy, I look at all the available conditions---rain or lack of such, air temperatures, soil temperatures, etc. and try to figure out what is making the plants unhappy. It isn't always a nutrition issue. Often it is too much of something I cannot control---rainfall, wind, abnormally high or low air temperatures, herbicide drifting through the air because someone near me is improperly applying it, etc. I would not necessarily use last year's plant performance as a benchmark because last year's rainfall was abnormally high in most areas of the state, and too much rain is worse than not enough rain as the excess moisture can clog up roots and prevent them from taking up nutrients from the soil. It sounds bizarre, but it is a common problem in wet years. My best guess about your Seminole pumpkin is that it either wasn't getting enough sunlight (it is a sun-loving beast) or that the soil was too wet for it. It is rare for Seminole to grow poorly or to be non-productive, so I'd chalk that up to the weather being too crappy for it last year. Be sure you don't plant it until the weather and soil are really warm. If planted too early into cold soil, it can stay unhappy and nonproductive for months. Wait for the heat before you plant it and all winter squash. Don't get so caught up in trying to perfectly prepare and plant that you forget to have fun. One of the most successful tomato growers I know did exactly this: she rototilled her soil to get rid of the existing plants. She planted her tomato plants into the ground with no fertilizer added and no soil amendments. She didn't cage or stake her plants. She didn't water or weed. Soon she had 6' tall tomato plants surrounded by 6' tall grasses and weeds. She just waded through the weeds and grasses to harvest her tomatoes and she was perfectly happy with that. She got huge yields that made her farmer/rancher dad a little green with envy. He couldn't figure out how she got such great yields from such a messy, untended garden when his yields from a beautifully-prepared, well-tended garden plot weren't nearly as high. It made him crazy. Tomato plants want to grow. They have a biological imperative to produce seed to ensure another generation will follow them, so one way or another, they will set fruit. I don't think they need all the soil prep and fertilizer that some folks give them. If the nutrients are in the soil, the roots will find them and use them. It can be very simple. It doesn't have to be hard or complicated, and it isn't rocket science. Just keep it fun and (if possible) relaxing. Happy Growing! Dawn