I don't have anything on your list but I have some shade plants? Helabores---blooms a pastel pink/green Miniture hosta--it's Caroline's gold I believe. Very small leaves...a border plant and DOES like more sun than most hosta. King Humbert Cana lily. Creeping Jenny. Orange day lily Can root a hydrangea for you.. Can root cuttings from my jasmine vines. (Rooting these would take a few weeks for an plant to survive mailing). I have autum joy sedum that's great for full sun LOTS of ivy. 5-6 diff types. Also have cast iron plant. I would LOVE a jap maple. We moved into 3 acres and I'm needing some nice pretty trees. Let me know?

dawgie is correct you will not need to prune them unless you enjoy doing so ...and only in the mid summer or fall period when they are NOT growing ...seedling or grafted it is NOT necessary they will "fill out" on their own and don't see how trimming will speed this up or why you'd want to unless as I said your a topiary sort of person or as was said... the tree is extreemly mis-shapen!!! I second dawgie's advise and don't understand your additional question...I think he answered it as far as i can see... David

Hello, I'm hoping someone with a little bit more knowledge and experience can help me figure out if one of the young Japanese maples in my yard has some sort of disease. The tree is only a few years old and actually started as a tiny seedling I assume from the seeds of one of the mature trees in the yard. The bark seems to have really deep woody ridges and sharp 'pimply' spots on the trunk and branches. When I broke off a few of the thinner pieces it was green underneath. At first I thought (or more accurately wistfully hoped) it was just growing bark weirdly, but it only seems to be on the upper side of the branches and 4 inches up from the base of the trunk (the bottom 4 inches look more like the bark on the other Japanese maples I have). I would like to move it as it's right next to our porch. If anyone could please help I would greatly appreciate it. I've attached some pictures as well.

"It's beautiful. If you YouTube pruning JMs, you can get a lot of information." I'm sorry but of all the places where one can find good pruning info, I would rate YouTube at the bottom of the list. ANYONE can post to YouTube and most of those that do have no earthly idea what they are doing!! And with JM's in particular, pruning is much more of an art than a science and a very light hand is necessary. Typically with a tree this young, very minimal pruning is required. There is a current post on the Trees forum regarding a tiny mail order JM that was rather whacked up by the vendor before shipping but has now been reduce to a virtual short, bare stick by excessive and unnecessary pruning. What would have been the preferred approach is to have left the tree alone for its first season (or two!!) to see how it responded to the initial bad pruning cuts and then - and not before - make some remedial cuts to direct growth and encourage a better branching structure. With JM's, especially the smaller growing or dwarf varieties, narrow crotch angles and/or low branching are NOT the issues they would be with larger, faster growing trees. Because of this, one seldom ever sees JM's with structural issues. Generally the only structural problems one encounters are the inability of the low weeping dissectums to stand up to snowloads and that is only because the branch network supports the snow rather than lets it pass through as it would with a bigger, less "platformed" tree. And careful thinning can address that.