The small black areas are old damage. Leave them alone; the plant has already sealed off those areas, and digging around is only going to make new wounds. The discolouration between the ribs looks like a sort of corking, and while it's not dangerous in itself it's a sign that the plant isn't as healthy as it could be. Some of it has been there a while, as you can see from the cracks. You don't have to cut spines off to explore the large discoloured area -- use a blunt pencil or toothpick or something to feel the area indirectly. Outside is good (it hasn't been getting enough light lately -- see how the top of the plant is reaching up and has fewer spines?), but miracle grow anything is unlikely to drain well enough unless you have the bottom of the soil in contact with the dirt outside. Careful with that new growth though, it's especially unused to outdoors sunlight and will scorch quite easily. Consider getting a scrap of shade cloth and hooking it loosely over the top growth. Eventually that tender growth will no longer be at the growing point, and scorched shoulders are less bad for a cactus than a scorched head. Overall the whole plant is a bit scabby, but once you get it into the right conditions you'll be surprised at how quickly that few inches of bad skin disappears into the base. The O. trolli below is hardly a show specimen, but I'm showing it to show what the top of the plant should be shaped like, and how much increased light levels will change the spination.

If your aloe is showing some signs of growth, by all means, try to save it! If it is acclimated to sun already that is good! Now just don't water more than every two weeks, *at least*. It is in a large (for its occupant) plastic pot...this will hold water much longer than clay since plastic doesn't absorb any of the water and because a pot that size provides far more moist soil than such a small plant requires. Let me suggest this: if you have trouble controlling the urge to water as many of us do...make your soil sharper. I am using 50/50 organic potting soil and haydite. It drains VERY fast. You can use Turface, or Oil Dri. Others can jump in and give you more ideas on "grits" and "aggregates". But drainage is the key. I don't know what your climate is: humid? dry? moderate temps? earth-baking? Game - Do Not be decieved. Simply because an aloe is sitting in full sun does not mean it needs more water. It is holding plenty inside its leaves. Again, how hot is your sun...compared to the desert areas where these are native? General Rule #1: Succulents can go an extra month with no water but cannot go an extra week with too much. If you are beginning to see green growth, I would probably pull it out of the pot and check the roots, cut off the mushy ones, let it air-dry for a day or two to callus over your cuts and then put it in a smaller clay container with new well-draining mix...and then water every two weeks or so if humidity/rain is low and temps high. This should put it on the right road to recovery. HTH - Jo

If a pothos, was too cold. but another image showing the entire plant might provide more clues.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I can breathe a sigh of releif now I know it is not any kind of blight. There is no sign of any other pests around. I have had aphids and white fly in previous years, but nothing else is clearly visible. I'll get my magnifying glass out and have a closer look. These tomatoes have only been fertilized once or twice with a very weak solution of soluble fertilizer, but they are really overdue for planting out and probably a bit over crowded. They are still indoors because we have been having such cold weather. I probably should set the fan on them a bit. I have not done that this year. I will clean them up and start hardening them off over the weekend. I was so proud of myself it would have been very hard to take if I had to toss them. Happy Gardening, all!! P.S. Enjoyed your site Kr222, gave me some ideas for my salvia seedlings. N.