How would you prune this container fig tree??
Ariel
8 years ago
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Ariel
8 years agoA J
8 years agoRelated Discussions
How to prune my young fig tree which has only a few leaves
Comments (15)Hi Map1e, I'm doubtful that your tree was grafted. Although your tree could've been grafted its more work for the nursery and why would they do that when a fig does fine on its own roots? I would suggest that you try to root some of your cuttings or if you have any suckers come up pot those up and compare them to the mother tree. If its grafted the suckers and the cuttings that you took will be different. Either the fruit color or leaf structure would be different. Would it be a robust plant if you air layered.... Yes, the fig would have a good headstart if you air layered a section of your 10 ft tree and cut it down to 6ft you would have a 4 ft tree instantly...well almost, you'd have to have roots develop first. I guess that your current option for propagating more trees would be to root some cuttings. Good luck, Little John...See MoreHow to prune this fig tree?
Comments (19)James, Like Glenn said, it sounds like you have the idea. However, you mentioned doing the air layer at the "base" of the limb. I would suggest moving up higher...say about where the other branching of your tree takes place. I'm guessing if the branch is 3" at the base it's probably more like 2" or slightly less at the point I'm talking about. Also, 3 or 5 gal. pots are bigger than you need for this, and I would think they would be very difficult to manage as far as keeping them stable while the rooting takes place. I would think a 6" or so pot deep enough to allow enough soil to cover a couple of nodes on the branch would be fine. You want to be able to keep the pot stationary. You don't want roots to start to develop, have a rain that adds weight to the pot/soil, and have the pot start slipping down the branch thereby damaging the developing roots. As someone mentioned, don't be in a hurry to cut it. Two weeks is at the short end of the time necessary. You will begin to see white roots sticking up from the soil in the pot. My experience has been the stronger you allow the root mass to develop before cutting the airlayer the more vigorously the new plant commences growth. The thread fignut referred you to was my post earlier this year. When I cut it this airlayer consisted of a 14" plant with two branches (each less than 1/2" in diameter). Today, a little over 4 mos. later this plant has 3 new branches it grew out from the base (total of 5 main branches now). Two of these new branches are 5/8" in diameter, and one is over 3 ft. tall. Last week I had to pick off around a dozen or more new figs it popped out (too late to ripen). Bottom line: this is one healthy, thriving plant today and will no doubt produce a good crop of figs next year (it's first full year). Later today I'll try to get a good picture of this plant and post it. In contrast I have several other airlayers I did around the same time that I was somewhat overanxious to cut. I saw some roots, figured it was enough, and cut/potted the airlayers. One of these was from the same mother tree as the one I've been discussing. These plants are healthy and doing OK. If I didn't have this other one to compare them to I'd probably think they were a complete success, but I know better. My long, drawn out point: don't rush to cut your airlayer. If you cut and pot it with a really good root mass it will most likely take off like a weed. I'm assuming you will do this in the spring after your tree has leafed out. One other thing that I was a little hardheaded about learning is this: when you cut and pot the airlayer it is best to remove almost ALL the leaves. I was told to only leave a couple leaves at the very end - at the distal buds. When I followed these instructions the new plant invariably sprouted new branches and good healthy new growth from the existing distal buds. However, when I decided to see what heppened when I left more leaves on the airlayer than I'd been told to, the new plants did not produce nearly as much new growth - in some cases almost zero new growth. I guess the plant needs to be forced into producing new growth, and removing the leaves does this. Otherwise, too much of the new plant's energy is devoted to sustaining the existing leaves. Note: Al and others who really know what they are talking about please clarify/correct if my layman's explanation is in conflict with actual fact :) Good luck James. One last word of warning: this stuff can be habit forming. I started this year with 8 potted fig trees. Not counting rooted cuttings I now have around 60 - with more en route soon :) Henry...See MoreBest time to root prune container figs
Comments (5)The best time to repot/root prune F carica (the hardy fig) is in spring. The first time you repot, keep a close eye on the buds and be prepared in advance to repot at the very first sign of budswell. The next and all subsequent repots should be 2 weeks earlier than when you noticed bud movement. Take note of when you see the first sign of budswell each year. After several years you'll be able to predict with fair accuracy when buds will move, and you'll be able to repot just before they do. Buds on your hardy figs will be moving (in most cases) 2-3 weeks before figs and mulberries (close relatives) in the landscape are starting to push. Nothing is carved in stone, though. Several years ago, we had a week of weather in the mid to upper 80s in March. I had all sorts of trees breaking bud and had to take a week off to repot. I remember standing on the driveway in shorts and tank top with a hella bad sunburn by week's end, in spite of the SPF 35 I had slathered on. So pay attention and be prepared, in case Mother Nature serves up a curve ball. You CAN repot in fall after leaves are shed, but it's very important that you protect the roots of trees repotted in fall from any chance of freezing. Al...See MoreBest time to root prune fig trees in containers?
Comments (2)Thanks Martin - I have seen your large yields in pics in the past so it seems root pruning in February will not effect fruit yields as long as other parameters are ideal. Perhaps my lower yields were due to inadequate fertilizer or too high soil temps in the pots, I measured one day this summer and the temp in the first 6 or so inches was ~ 100 in July with pots sitting on the driveway in sun all day. I will plan on relocating the pots or shading them next season to see if that helps! Thanks for your input! Have a great remainder of the weekend! Brian...See MoreAriel
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