That is the right stuff but actually using it is a whole other issue. I hope he gave you application amounts for the specific size of your garden because it would be quite easy to create some real problems in small gardens.

I use it in my 5,000 sq. foot gardens because my native soil is very alkaline at 8+ and is mag deficient but I only apply it at 1/2 the recommend label rate or less to avoid problems.

Dave

She said 4.5 lbs per 1000 sq ft. My garden is 1750. So I figure between 7-8 lbs total. But it sounds like I need to be careful not to go over. It looks like her recommendation is a little less than half the recommended rate on the bag.

Depends. How high is your pH? How low is your Mag? It isn't a quick-fix so any problems it creates will be 2-3 months from now in appearance. You can always add more but you can't take it out.

Dave

Ph is 6.3 and mag is 430

Uhhh why do you think those readings need adjusting? Normal soil Mag levels are 60-300 and you have 430. They called that low mag??? pH of 6.3 is well within the acceptable range for most all vegetables and only slightly acidic. Neutral is considered 6.6-7. Man what I wouldn't give for those soil readings! I wouldn't touch the sul-pro-mag with those results.

But if you are going to use some then I'd go with no more than a pound at a time for the whole bed of 1750'. You could easily drop your pH out of acceptable into too acidic and end up with Mag toxicity. JMO. Your choice.

Dave

I appreciate your opinion. The potassium was 33, phosphorous 249. she said the amendment would raise potassium level-but I dont want to create another problem with high mag. Is there a way to add potassium without adding the mag?

Btw, here r the other results

Ok that is a low potassium (K) level. Normal is about 90-130. But there are many ways to add K to the soil without getting into messing with the sulfur and mag. Kelp Meal or kelp powder (best IMO), potassium nitrate, plain old wood ash, greensand, etc. I don't recommend using Muriate of Potash as it contains too much chlorine and kills beneficial soil bacteria.

Check with local nurseries and farm stores to see what is available locally or most all are available online. For example and plenty for your size bed: http://www.amazon.com/Maxicrop-5000-Kelp-Meal-5-Pounds/dp/B002LUAL8S

Dave

I have access to wood ash. Also like the kelp idea. Thank you very much. I greatly appreciate the help-so glad I didnt spread that other stuff!!

Don't go overboard with the wood ash. I completely agree it will serve your purposes well and your soil is slightly acidic so you have some room to breathe. But keep in mind that wood ash is quite alkaline, and many a gardener has over-done it.

I'm sure you can find a web-resource with amounts to use, then use a little less. For the record, the 'best' wood ash for use in the garden is from hardwoods.

Great that you have wood ash access. It is also an excellent source of the needed micro-nutrients. But as rgreen said, don't go overboard. But that is true with anything. You can always add more but can't take out what you added. :-)

No ashes from BBQ grills, cardboard, plywood, painted, or pressure treated wood. Soft woods ok but not as good as hardwood ash. A commonly forum recommended application rate is 1 lb. per 100 sq. feet. but I find that to be too high for my comfort level. I prefer the recommendation out of University of GA Extension Service - 1/4-1/2" layer over entire bed in early spring before planting and mixed in and watered well. Then an additional 1/2" layer over the entire bed in the fall and allowed to over-winter in place.

If any plants show symptoms of deficiency during the season you can always side dress them with an additional 1/4".

Dave