Opinions of Joyfulness: disease issue or fungal?
Laurel Zito
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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jacqueline9CA
8 years agoBrittie - La Porte, TX 9a
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Ortho Garden Disease Control (Daconil) ? Organic?
Comments (63)Britt you have distorted Kimm's statement (" If you really have gardened that many years, with a wide variety of plants, you would have had some diseases to deal with, and certainly at least some losses." - my putting part of your statement in bold). Kimm's statement "even a small part of one" does not mean "none - zero". See: http://dictionary.reverso.net/english-definition/small%20part You have taken a statement to an extreme. In debating, there is a name for such a practice. https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#newwindow=1&q=trying+to+take+an+argument+to+the+extreme I am reproducing your conclusion here. " Kimm, you should not lie about organic gardening benefits: they are substantial, and can stand on their own. There is no need to make unsubstantiated fantastic clams." A breakdown in logic: at first you bring up the possibility of someone lying: "is a remark that either is a total lie, or indicates that you have just not tried many things. " Then you make the above conclusion statement. ==================================================== In my rose growing years, I (Henry Kuska) grew 1000 roses and I could make the same statement that Kimm made....See Morewhat use in exchange for diseased leaves in compost
Comments (6)organic_gordie - Do not be alarmed (yet). Very good chance that what you may be seeing above ground is not a bad issue for compost or soil. Blight refers to a specific symptom affecting plants in response to infection by a pathogenic organism. It is simply a rapid and complete CHLOROSIS (yellowing of leaves) browning, then death of plant tissues such as leaves, branches, twigs, or floral organs. So you are saying that there are plants DYING in your yard? And the answer to your compost process question is: Depends on how good of a composter you are. IF you can get the pile up to at least 131F, then turn the outside material into the inside of the next pile - and get that 2nd pile to heat up to at least 131F - then 'yes'. Otherwise, my opinion is 'no'. But then, depending on what pathogen it is, it is very likely that you could get a few shovels full of very healthy soil from a local nursery (that makes its own compost), which will likely have the 'good' bacteria in it that will kill the bad blight bacteria or fungus. If you don't kill the 'good guys' with compost heat. So add a few shovels full of the 'good dirt' into the compost AFTER it has heated also. There is ONLY one best way to tell that I know of: Take a sample of what you call "blight" AND each of the fungi - (no larger than the palm of your hand); put each sample into a separate ziplock bag, write your name, phone number and date on each bag. Do not take 'things' into an agricultural office that are not enclosed safely in ziplocks. Then take all the bags with you and drop them off at your County Agricultural Extention Agent's office for identification by a certified Master Gardener. You will need to fill out a form that goes with each ziplock. Fill out one form and have copies made. This service is FREE. Should only take a few days to get QUALIFIED answers. MOST fungus is a GOOD thing in the compost pile. Fungi and bacteria are what break compost down. You need them. They are your FRIENDS. The question to ask the Master Gardener: Does this fungus belong in my compost pile, and/or soil, and if not, why not? You should be provided with the SCIENTIFIC names of each of the ziplocked samples, which you can then look up on the Internet for more information, and bring that information back to this forum and let us share your new knowledge. I'm a Certified Master Gardener also, but I cannot see the growths to which you refer, so cannot help you. But MG's in your 'neck of the woods' can. I would be surprised for there to be fugus growths you can see with the 'naked eye', that would be bad to compost, or be bad in your soil. Don't get me wrong. There ARE some - and they kill even mature trees and other plants. Blight is a bad thing too. However, I'm not sure that what you generically call "blight" - actually is - but you should have answers soon...Let us know. Robert...See MoreDiseased?
Comments (95)Here's my two cents... After obsessing over the possibility that some of my beloved plants have the MV, I have decided to keep them. I'm fortunate (thanks to the Great Recession) to have bought a property that has loads of room and therefore, the suspected plants will live far away from the rest. Many of those I suspect are virused are special to me. I will attempt to pollinate the ones that I can, but knowing genetics, its a crapshoot! Regarding pots and sanitizing.... I can't say whether or not what Josh says what he heard is true or not; however, I can tell you of my experience. I grow all of my hippies hydroponically... same with my orchids. The medium is called hydroton and is essentially expanded clay-- same stuff as the clay pots we use. The pots and the hydroton are porous and porous enough to absorb sanitizers and even bleach. In fact, its difficult to rinse these things out! However, the key is time. When I sanitize hydroton, it goes into a bucket with a bleach solution for a month plus. Having spoken with master gardeners who grow their orchids the same way as I, I can tell you them do the same and never passed any illnesses. Take this with a grain of salt-- but it has worked for me....See MoreDoes anyone do a regular spray programme to prevent bugs and fungal is
Comments (17)Veletta, I would never paint the leaves with sulfur for PM. I just set a small container of it in my plant tray. It always does the trick. And Lysol has never worked for me. Horticulturists these days use something called Integrated Pest Management (IPM). Basically, it is a system that only treats when a problem has occurred and only treats to keep the problem at a level the plant can tolerate. For example-some powdery mildew can be tolerated but no number of thrips should ever be allowed on your plants. There is a lot of info on the inter-net if you are interested in learning more. The whole system was set up as an answer to all of the indiscriminate pesticides and such that were going into the environment....See MoreLaurel Zito
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoLaurel Zito
8 years agojim1961 / Central Pennsylvania / Zone 6
8 years agoLaurel Zito
8 years agoLaurel Zito
7 years agofduk_gw UK zone 3 (US zone 8)
7 years agoLaurel Zito
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoUser
7 years agoLaurel Zito
7 years agoLaurel Zito
7 years agoLaurel Zito
7 years agoSheila z8a Rogue Valley OR
7 years ago
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