Mild winter, and yet my Forythias only bloomed on 1 branch each? Fail.
ilovemytrees
8 years ago
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Quince tree blooming 1 year from bench graft
Comments (0)I was amazed to discover that my quince tree, which I created as a bench graft last spring, has flower buds about to bloom at all of the terminal growth. Both the tip of the leader as well as all of the little 4" branches of new growth off of the main stem each have a flower forming. I'm not sure what to do. I didn't think there would be any chance of having flowers yet. The tree is only about 3' tall. At the end of last fall it was a bare whip which I headed this winter in hopes of inducing branching....See MoreMy Forsythias blooms are a huge fail this year. Why?
Comments (6)Good morning! I attached a picture of one of the shrubs, I don't know if it'll help or not, but it will show the bottom, where on one side, it bloomed. I fertilized twice, once at the time of planting, and then once a couple weeks later like the directions said, and that was it. I used Miracle-Gro Liquid Quick Start. I am so glad that if the flower buds are damaged that at least the leaf buds will be okay. These are Lynwood Gold Forsythias. I am dying to cut a small piece off to see if it will bloom, but if it's already under stress, I don't want to push it over the edge. P.S Please excuse all the rocks, the rocks outside the fence were for vole protection (which was useless for our Burning Bushes) and the rocks around the shrub were for mulch. We're going to be clearing out all the rocks and putting in cedar mulch, once we get a day warmer than 50 degrees on the weekend.....See MoreYet Another Wintering Dilema/Question
Comments (3)capish, your #1 question/statement is correct. I won't touch your #2 one because I feel it's a method not proper for brugmansia cuttings. Why, if you wrap a cutting in a paper towel to send within days you will have nubs and when that happens it's best for the plant to be put directly into dirt for a better root system. The longer you keep them in water, the less likely your will have a good root system. You want to do what is best for the plant and not keep them in water all winter. As for repotting, remember save your back first. To bump up to a larger pot wait until spring. I wouldn't prune roots until the plant out grows the pot you have selected to use. General rule once every 5 years you should prune but when you do do not push the plant, you should forcus on allowing them to grow their roots and not flower. You might want to look into using smaller pots with holes and sinking them into a larger pot. If you want more information contact me direct. Remember some brugmansia do not like to have their roots disturbed so keep that in mind also....See Morewinterization of fig failed...why?
Comments (19)I had limited success overwintering with my hardy Chicago fig I planted last summer. Most of the fig died except for the fastest part of the trunk. Basically I have a stump that is about 1.5" in diameter and maybe a foot tall. I have been thinking that instead of wrapping the plant vertically it might be better to keep it close to the ground and cover it with mulch. My question is how much of my fig can I cut back every year and still have it produce reliably? I want to encourage the fig to grow laterally main trunks just above the ground and cut off the new vertical growth after every season. Kind of like this http://figs4fun.com/fpix/FP739-01.jpg this way I can cover the tree in a deep pile of leaves and throw a tarp over it to winterize it. Do you think this will work and how much of the new growth should I leave?...See Moreilovemytrees
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoilovemytrees
8 years agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
8 years agoNHBabs z4b-5a NH
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoilovemytrees
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoilovemytrees
8 years ago
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