There is repeated balderdash about transplanting snowdrops 'in the green', e.g. page 8 of the February 2013 of Gardeners' World; 'Like most snowdrops, best planted in the green... Three people with more direct experience than any of article writers for that mag are adamant that snowdrops should be transplanted and/or sold much later in the year. Chris Brickell, John Grimshaw and Paul Christain have all published on this topic. Although some progress has been made, their research continues to be widely ignored. A few years ago, I heard Chris Brickell say that the only benefit of transplanting snowdrops 'in the green' is that you know where they are when you dig them up and you know where they are when you have replanted them so that you do not put more in the same place! With some good friends in Cheltenham (England) we have visited Colesbourne Park, where Dr John Grimshaw is gardens manager for Henry Elwes (G. elwesii). John was a little more reserved because he said a few varieties of snowdrop do not suffer much when transplanted 'in the green', but he did advise strongly against it. In his current catalogue (Spring 2013), Dr Paul Christian is more outspoken: "Our Galanthus are only supplied in summer. We do not sell them "In The Green" as moving them in that way, in leaf and root, in Spring, damages them and sets them back. It is an old-fashioned, outmoded idea and times have changed. Hands-on experience proves it is highly detrimental in the long term. I stress that what we send will NOT be dry bulbs, they are our own, damp-packed bulbs produced here and dug for despatch at the right time. The period from July-Oct. is, without a doubt, the best time to move them (as damp bulbs). If someone tells you otherwise then, quite simply, they are wrong!" 'Gardening World' has lagged behind 'The Garden'(RHS)and 'Which? Gardening' on this issue. The Garden has now changed advice. The article on page 22 of the January 2013 reflects more or less exactly the assertion of Paul Christian, including the minor caveat of John Grimshaw. Which? Gardening Jan/Feb 2102), however, on pages 42-43 messes up a very reasonable article - giving the same advice as Paul Christian - by including a photo of the author dividing snowdrops (in the green)! This is clearly an example of an error being repeated so often that it becomes the "truth". It is time this one is put to rest.

They should be fine. I put mine on the east side of the house by the garage where they are shaded most of the day and protected from the west winds. A long hardening off period makes for tough plants come planting time.

I would recommend keeping the seed dry and at room temperatures until giving them a moist cold treatment for about 90-110 days before sowing them. This timing should be set so that you plant them out after any danger of frost has passed or if you have a greenhouse at anytime. One method of cold moist stratification is to place the seed in moist paper towels in a ziploc or better yet by putting the seed in moist sphagnum(soak the sphagnum in warm water for about an hour and then squeeze out the excess water) and place the seed in the sphagnum in a ziploc. I prefer to use milled(chopped-up) sphagnum as it is much easier to handle. If you have any further questions please feel free to contact me. Hope this helps. Mark

Kathleeen, No need to panic. Where are you located? We can better help you if we know what growing zone you are in. You can start hardening off your plants by putting them outside in a shady spot for a while each day, gradually letting them have a little more sun over a period of about a week to 10 days. When they can take full sun without damage, you can plant them in their permanent spot or container. Personally, I would use 1/4 strength MG or even hold off on it until planting time, so as not to burn the plants or cause too much tender growth too quickly. Please post back with your location information.