New growth is suffering-repotted in new soil before buds broke
highlift
8 years ago
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
8 years agohighlift
8 years agoRelated Discussions
new to ficus bonsai...asking about repotting and soil make up
Comments (14)If you look closely at the photo I've attached you'll see the new bud growth (4) at the bases of two of the three remaining branches. Because of a lack of proper sun light I've acquired a grow lamp that could be contributing to this new bud growth but I alse have to thank moochinka for the advise to cut back on some of the branches.These are the three remaining branches. They seem to be getting longer and longer, but on a positive note though there is the (4) new bud growth. Is there a safe way to control the growth length of these three remaining branches without damaging the tree? It just seems so stringly and spindly at this stage! Is there any way I can promote more new budding at the bases of the limbs? The orphan and its companions are thriving thanks to the knowledge I've acquired on the forum. Thanks bonsaiprice...See MoreTwo new trees/too late for full repot & 1 year pot options
Comments (23)A couple of full tree shots. The more I look at this Fireglow the more the ultimate shape solidifies in my mind. I'm very glad that Al (tapla) encouraged me to remove the main trunk on this tree. The lower limb is going to turn into a beautiful 2-3' tall tree. The basic shape of this tree is there. There are multiple plains (vertically) and multiple clusters (in the round). Now, over the next couple of years, I need to put into practice what I've been reading about judicious pruning, bud pinching (to reduce internode length and finish each limb), and partial defoliation (to reduce leaf size). Probably my favorite tree at this point. The Corallinum (due mostly to Al's help in pruning) is developing its top on on side. This tree certainly has shown resilience after loosing alot of it's root mass when dug out of the ground this spring. Now to keep the top in check so the bottom back buds and begins to fill in. Some back budding is already beginning low on this tree. Yay! Thanks for the encouragement and guidance Al. Blake...See MoreNew Fiddle Leaf Fig, should I repot/root prune???
Comments (5)NO plant likes root congestion. There are times when root congestion might serve the grower because it has an effect on the plant the grower likes, but that isn't a clear indicator the plant will like it. Tight roots cause stress and all sorts of physiological problems for all plants. It reduces growth, branch extension, and leaf size. It limits vitality and caused the shedding of older leaves proximal (closer to the trunk) to growing branch tips (apices). If anyone tells you that a particular plant prefers to be root bound w/o explaining what they really mean is some growers like to maintain a particular plant in root bound conditions, they're wrong. If "some plants" really did prefer root bound conditions, Mother Nature would surely have arranged the plant's genetics so it grew tight little masses of roots right under the stem ..... but we know there are no plants that naturally occur that way. That said, your plant probably isn't in any immediate danger that pertains to root congestion. You're better to suffer the limitations the plant is now growing under for a while in exchange for a more opportune time to repot, which for you would be next June. Plants have natural rhythms, during which their energy levels wax and wane. For major work, like repotting (which includes root pruning), it's best to ask the plant to endure the added stress of repotting or rejuvenation pruning when its energy levels are at peak - not now when they are at or approaching their lowest levels of the entire growth cycle. If you haven't read it, the link below should be very helpful. If you are wondering about repotting and how to maintain trees in containers for the long haul, this link offers lots of guidance. Al Here is a link that might be useful: Lots more info...See MoreShould I Repot These New Dendrobiums?
Comments (20)While it's true that for some orchids you should wait for growth to repot, these types of dends grow and bloom throughout the year. Spring really is the best time to repot these...wait until summer and it'll have to battle the intense heat while recuperating its roots. I know everyone here just wants what's best for the orchids and its flowers but please put yourselves in Meghanize's place. Imagine this is your first time trying to grow dends. The only other orchids you've grown so far are phals whose cultural requirements are so much wetter and darker than that of dends. When others tell you to keep it dry, you would think "dry" in terms of phals which would still be too wet for dends. The dends are grown indoors right now in Pro-mix. There is almost no ventilation indoors, light will be limited since the sun is moving more directly over-head now, and temps are not high enough to sponsor much evaporation. The medium is just gonna stay wet for much too long for a dend. Did y'all read what Meghanize wrote? "It doesn't seem to have dried out at all since it was watered three days ago." I wouldn't even grow my phals or cyms in that type of medium. Add this to the fact that Meghanize is probably gonna grow them closer to Phal conditions than cattleya conditions because that is what she's familiar with and it's gonna result in root rot. If it hasn't already started rotting. I'm from the same school as Bolero, I always repot after buying them and for the exact reasons Bolero already stated. Then again...Meghanize, you do have 2 of them....you could repot one and not the other. However, if you choose not to repot the other, follow Jane's advice....See Moregardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
8 years agohouzi
8 years agohighlift
8 years agoMike
8 years ago
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