Why does no one plant native Stewartia?
10 years ago
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- 10 years agolast modified: 10 years ago
- 10 years ago
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Why native plants matter
Comments (11)Many so-called "exotics" attract just as much wildlife and beneficials as do native plants. Quite a few of these are merely cultivated forms of indigenous or native plants that have been developed for enhanced attributes - disease resistance may be only one of these aspects. While there are many benefits to using natives in the landscape - greater adaptability to specific locations/climates being one - native plants can also be less than ideally attractive, often appearing somewhat weedy or unkempt. In certain neighborhoods governed by HOA's or covenants, the use of only natives may be discouraged or outright prohibited. It would probably make more sense to shoot for some sort of balance between natives and more exotic ornamentals. The exotics are not by definition considered bad or less desirable, provided one stays away from those that require excessive chemicals to maintain or that pose invasive potential. You will get the greatest benefit from any significant biodiversity in your plant selection regardless of origin and as rhodium has so astutely pointed out, avoiding all use of pesticides and other garden chemicals. And remember, if you restrict yourself to planting ONLY natives, you can pretty much kiss off much of anything in the way of common edibles or basic kitchen garden produce....See MoreStewartia,... planted in stone, tree-ring
Comments (8)garp1: .... Thanks for getting back to me with the somewhat disheartening advice against planting the Stewartia in a mostly, full-sun location. Yes, the patio is in full-sun, but only in early-morning, however, it does get some shade from late-morning until about 3:00PM. The roof-line of my house throws a shadow onto the porch, and then, as the sun swings around in late afternoon, the porch gets hit with sun again, until dusk. I should have been a little more specific, regarding the lighting conditions on my front porch, in my earlier post. However, I doubt that this changes anything ... or, does it? Well, I asked for some practical advice, and, I got it ... and, I'm glad. What fooled me was that this tree was growing in a full-sun exposure at the nursery, so I figured that this will grow just as well on my front porch. Now, I know better. You're right when you guessed that this tree didn't come cheap. It lightened my wallet, big time!!!!!! I'd rather take a chance at growing the tree in a less than ideal location, than, give it away. Most people who see the tree, ask me what kind of "Rose-of-Sharon" is it? Maybe I'll carefully remove the tree, without disturbing the roots, repot it into a larger, 20-gallon container, and grow it at the intended location, just to see how it does. If it doesn't decline, maybe I'll take a chance and plant it into the tree-ring. I calculated the volume of soil which will be contained on this tree-ring that I'm building, and it comes close to 225 gallons of soil. The Acer griseum that you mentioned, was actually, my first choice for this spot, but any, decent size tree, was far too expensive for my budget. Besides, most of the A. griseums that I've seen in nurseries, were either, too small, or more often, so hideous, and, poorly grown, that I would've had to prune half the tree away just to correct all the defects. I can't understand how nurseries get away with selling such poorly-grown crap!!! Most of what I see being sold, and, at such high prices, belongs in the compost piles, but some poor suckers still buy this garbage. It's all too common to see bad crotches, weak, double-leaders, - that will eventually split, - crossing branches rubbing away bark, rotting, branch stubs - from improper pruning, - and the list goes on, and on. Absolute crap for sale !!!!!!!!!!!! Anyway, thanks again for helping me out, with what may be, a very costly mistake. I'll do more homework before my next purchase. I'll let you know if this saga has a happy ending. Cordially, Frank...See MoreReplacing thirsty plants, one native at a time
Comments (20)my vague sense is that grafted roses may lose their graft, but selfrooted cv can't. I've seen roses grown dry. they flower in spring, then dry back. drip. streamside/watercourse plants should like drip. (grapes, brambles, bermuda grass, aesculus c., iirc oleander. poplar would like drip so much, it would soon clog your water meter :-) ) ca natives have brief history of cultivation (nursery, hort abuse and hybridization, selection), so non-watercourse natives (diplacus?) likely lack hort-flexibility of non-watercourse ancient hort plants (perhaps olive is good example?). soil. suburbs are usually clay. most aesthetically popular dry plants are native to coarser soils (or are large) Reading years ago, I decided that all major Mediterranean climates differ significantly from each other. We grow plants without their native fauna and flora. so much is different... so, nothing beats (somebody's) hands-on research :-)...See Moreone year of native plant gardening in the Sacramento Valley
Comments (18)Sorry if I came off as so negative with my advice, certainly you have gained a wealth of personal experience that has now elevated you from a "newbie" gardenener to one more experienced with the trials and tribulations of invasive weeds, and poor winter drainage. A bit more about using Roundup in case you didn't know: 1. Works best when bermuda grass has not been cut back, but is full and lots of surface foliage 2. Apply when bermuda grass is in active growth(usually once it has hit 75F temps for a couple of weeks 3. Roundup works best when you have consistent warm weather so that it actively gets translocated to the roots 4. When bermuda grass is invading from the neighbors gardens, you need to do regular weed patrol to keep on top of runners that spring up from under the fence, probably at least every couple of weeks About the annual bluegrass: 1. If you are planting out small seedlings that can't effectively compete with weeds, try cutting an 18 square of weed fabric and pinning down at the edges around any new seedlings, this is what is typically done with revegeatation seedlings/trees planted out in grasslands, they need help creating a clear zone so that they can get large enough to compete with the weeds/grasses 2. Mulching deeply to keep bare soil from being exposed greatly helps with inhibiting weed seeds that need light to germinate, such as the annual blue grass 3. If you are trying to reseed poppies and other wildflowers, you can keep smaller areas weedfree and scatter saved seed, but will need to be vigilant about weeding seedlings of weeds as they come up Watering new plantings; 1. Standing with the hose and giving things a splash of water just isn't enough with valley heat and small seedlings with their limited roots 2. Better to give things a really good soak twice a day if starting seedlings when the weather is still hot, and use mulch to minimize soil evaporation 3. You might consider creating temporary shade structures using bamboo stakes and shade cloth if you can't resist starting seedlings outside the ideal fall planting window 4. Ideal time to plant out small sized native species is in the fall, once it starts to cool off enough in your area that you won't be getting any more 75F and above days, this makes a huge difference in heat and water stress for small plants Drainage issues 1. You are absolutely right that if you didn't know how poorly drained your intended garden was going to be, you wouldn't have known that it would be a problem. 2. You now know that it may be worth investigating first before you start planting; ie, look to see if there are rain gutters or downspouts off the roof, where they drain, if there is enough slope to the ground that water can drain away, etc. It may also be helpful to ask the neighbors, landlord, former tenants, when you have a chance to do so, if there are any drainage problems with the site Weeds; 1. You now have the experience to be a better judge of whether your intended garden area is surrounded by weeds, and if so, you now also know that it is always a good idea to try and get rid of the stored seed bank before you start planting 2. Getting rid of entrenched weeds may mean using Roundup at the right time of year to effectively kill them(and use the full strength applications and repeat usage after clearing away killed weeds, watering for at least a couple of weeks to initiate new growth, wait until weed regrowth is at least a couple of inches and spray again. You may need to do this 3 or 4 times over 3 to 4 months to get rid of all the weeds. 3. It may be useful to cultivate/disturb the soil several times to expose weed seeds to light, hoe them off or spray with herbicide, and repeat several times if you suspect you have a real weed problem. This could even mean that you don't plant your garden until 3 to 4 months of weed treatment. Dogs and new plants 1. it may be preaching to the choir, but small plants and dogs who aren't trained to be careful around small plants, or don't get enough walks/excercise to keep from being bored when left alone all day, are not a good mix with new plantings, especially at small vulnerable sizes. It only makes sense to give the plants some protection from dogs if you can't mitigate their behavior, dogs will do what dogs want to do without work on your part. Maybe I have just been lucky with the dogs I have owned, but I started training them very young to be careful around the garden, and not destroy young or old plants. I also had the time to take them on long walks every day, and burn off all that excess energy, which is important when you have a labrador retriever. Now if I could just train the raccoons not to damage plants in my garden.. You have gotten some valuable experience in gardening by the "trial by fire" method, but it can also be useful to ask questions when you aren't clear on the methods, take classes, and keep reading up. Obviously there isn't just one way to garden, and I certainly don't claim to know all the answers, but over 40 years of gardening, over 30 years of them professionally, mean that I do have a very good handle on how to handle weeds, drainage, soil amendmending, etc to fit within the budgets and efforts of my clients, and can tailor solutions that will work within different circumstances. It is always about tradeoffs, and I am not against using weedcloth as a first line of defense to be set underneath deep mulch when I can't eliminate the weeds in the first place, it has been my only workable method to minimize bermuda grass and Oxalis pes-capri infestations when I didn't have the time or budgets necessary to really control them before new landscape plantings....See More- 10 years ago
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