Between the Yoshino and Kwanzan Cherry tree, which one will get larger
tlbean2004
8 years ago
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Comments (10)
NHBabs z4b-5a NH
8 years ago
Androidmom |ZN7-VA|
7 years agoRelated Discussions
yoshino cherry Tree Bug / Fungus problem
Comments (10)Woody plants are very much larger below ground than above... that mirror image stuff is a myth. Field grown trees are harvested with the full knowledge that most of the root system WILL be left in the ground. It's estimated that as much as 90% of the roots remain behind. And yet, we still reasonably aim for a 100% success rate for the consumer. A good tree grower will be confidant that his/her trees leave the property in excellent condition. It's what happens afterwards that causes the problems. (Of course, not all growers are good growers!) Properly harvested trees and shrubs will be removed with equipment like a commercial tree spade or sharpened hand tools so that roots are cleanly cut and not smashed and torn. The ball should be either wrapped OR planted immediately so that those root ends don't desiccate. Once properly planted, the roots will begin to regrow by leaps and bounds. Just as with the top part of a woody plant, pruning can be a rejuvenation process....those small root tips will branch out behind the cut, creating more and more initials. Though it will be difficult for any of us to determine what the problem is with this tree without seeing the 'patient', I usually want to point a finger at planting and after care methods. Could excess mulch have been an issue? Is an irrigation head pointed directly at the trunk? Mis-handling of the tree can cause problems, too. I've seen valuable trees get rolled off the back of a pick-up to crash on the ground....See MoreYoshino Cherry Fiasco Lowe's
Comments (6)We are landscaping a newly purchased home. I have noticed an alarming trend in some of the big box stores, (But not Lowes). We have been buying azaleas, and some of the stores are not even aware that there are different varieties. In fact some like Home Depot only label their azaleas as when it blooms. We were in the other day since they had a good price. We looked at the azeleas and could not even tell from the labels it they were the Formosa type, or Encore. We asked the clerk, he is the one that didnt not know there were different varieties of azaleas. I saw the same situation at Walmart. I guess we should not be considering Walmart but we are looking to put in a couple of dozen plants this spring so price is a consideration....See MorePlanting a Yoshino Cherry Tree. Are the roots deep?
Comments (26)Sandy, I can uderstand how you came to your idea, but have to reiterate that I think it isn't ideal. Again, I would put a shrub, or several shrubs there in the corner, because a tree is going to grow into/over the sidewalk, blocking it with branches, and gnerally getting in the way. If it's a BIG tree, then it may well also grow long enough branches that it needs to be trimmed away from the side of the garage. A shrub in that location will maybe get wide enough to run up against the sidewalk or possibly the driveway, but the right one won't. With a shrub, you can know beforehand about how wide it will get, but most trees aren't so obliging - there are exceptions, but... If you want an evergreen shrub, do you want a tall one (4-8') or will a couple of shorter ones (2-5') do, or do you want both heights? Either, coupled with an tallish evergreen tree by itself in the middle of the lawn, would give enough visual mass to balance the addition. Me, I think I might go for a mix, maybe a small or medium evergreen to provide winter mass, and something like a butterfly bush to give summer interest. You can keep Buddleias trimmed to the size you want, and in fact, should trim them in summer after a bloom flush to get better reblooming. If you don't want to cut a shrub back hard in the spring, and a couple of times in the summer, then a crepe myrtle could be very nice. Since you can chose cultivars that range in height from 3' to 40', and colors from white, red, purple and pink, you have a wide variety to select from. A rhododendron or a camellia would also give you an evergreen, with flowers in winter/spring, with azaleas at the base for lower fill-in. Selecting for height and color could give a very nice effect with either or both. The camellia can be trimmed, if you really want a formal effect at the corner. For a taller evergreen tree, out in the lawn, I might go with a conifer - NOT a Leyland or something that will get 40-60' - but an interesting one with a good form or maybe a variegated or color selection. I would LOVE to have a weeping Atlas or Alaskan blue cedar growing in my lawn! You could also go with another magnolia, or with a holly - some of them can get pretty tall. There is certainly enough room for a tree in the lawn, unless, of course, you like the expanse of it and don't WANT another tree out there.......See Moreyoshino cherry tree, what should I do?
Comments (10)To determine the proper depth at planting, I'd gently dig down/flake the soil off of the top of the rootball until I got to the first root. Trees should be planted so that the highest root is approximately at ground level (in some cases with poorly draining soil, just slightly above that). Often trees and shrubs come planted at the wrong depths from the nursery. Unfortunately you can't assume that the top of the rootball is the correct planting depth. With some growers, as long as there is dirt and a plant in the pot, it's ready to sell. I will provide a link to my planting instructions below. If read carefully, I think/hope they will answer most of your planting questions. Weed barriers (the plastic and fiber stuff) will usually kill preexisting weeds and grass by cutting off their light, but they do nothing, or next to nothing, to stop seeds from germinating and growing roots down through the material. They also do nothing to control spreaders (like Bermuda grass), which also sends roots down through the material. When weeds and grass anchor themselves through the weed barrier, they can become impossible to remove without removing the entire weed barrier. I've actually done jobs where we had to remove the entire weed barrier by either cutting it into small sections and digging the whole mass of weeds, roots, and weed barrier out or use a skidsteer to scoop the mess out. Talking about a disaster! The second reason that root barriers are bad is because the repel water and nutrients and decrease soil gas exchange. All of them do this to some degree; some are worse than others. The ones that do the best job of blocking weed growth are probably the worst for blocking water, nutrient, and gasses. Another reason they are bad is because they block decomposing mulch from being mixed into the soil. Mulch can really benefit the tilth and fertilization of your soil if allowed to break down and mix into the soil. Here is a link that might be useful: Planting a Tree or Shrub...See More
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
7 years ago
Embothrium
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agosocalnolympia
4 years agoEmbothrium
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agorasabaka
3 years agokitasei2
3 years ago
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tlbean2004Original Author