Hedging season - when we order small bare-root 'whips' or 1 year old maiden trees and shrubs for hedges - like spring flowering bulbs, we start to think about this in mid-summer ready for ordering in autumn. These little plants sell for as little as 28 pence each - not sure what that is in AU dollars but it truly is ridiculously cheap. We plant these when they have been lifted from the fields as soon as they are dormant (evergreens are usually sold in small containers, having been cell-grown and are usually more expensive....but still laughably cheap) Not all species roses are grown as hedge specimens but check out nurseries which sell hedge plants - the selections are astonishing and the planting is easy, often just requiring a single slender trench made by a spade being wiggled to and fro and inserting the small bare-root 'whip' into the cut. At the very least, expect to find canina, eglanteria, rugosas and pimpinellifolia species roses.

Samantha, Absolutely, lack of expansion joints could have also been the part of the problem, which is unrelated to grout joint size. When installing, manufacturer instructions comes first, then the standards second if there is missing or conflicting information and instruction. If there is a failure, an inspector (or a court) will first use manufacturer specs and instructions, because they are the liable responsible party in a claim, so their information takes presidence. Thats what installer must follow first if there is conflict, and if there is missing information, the TCNA/ANSI standards come in. Now, many manufacturers refer to the TCNA/ANSI standards. Additionally, some manufacturers do not offer all needed information which then the TCNA/ANSI standards kick in. Every installer should be well versed in both. There are many tile and stone manufacturers who still allow for ultra thin grout joints. In regards to the standards changes you mention in grout joint sizes, indeed the TCNA/ANSI has made recommendations for the first time concerning grout joint size and spacing. To completely understand the new changes you have to understand how recommendations are made. When they say "in general", these are not absolute standards. Simply guidance lacking any other source taking presidence. When they say "absolute", these are standards that are never to be strayed from. The new changes on grout joint width is an "in general recommendation" or situational recommendation. Ultimately, the project owner should choose the grout joint they desire. -from the TCNA website. Please view the TCNA link for more information. It explains it pretty well. If you have tile cut or manufactured to tight size tolerances, you can have any joint size you wish. Of course, as I stated before, not all tile is able to be installed with the ultra thin grout joints. Again this is situational. There is no absolute standard for tile joint width. Tile it is a finish topical product, relying on the subfloor/framing/substrate structure for rigidity and in-range deflection for its stability and structure. Now if you continue to believe otherwise, that the tile system itself aides in overall system stability and structural integrity and/or that grout joint size matters at all when tile sizing is withing parameters, I really dont know how else to convince you. Since this obviosuly matters a great deal to you, I would suggest you buy a copy of the standards. Its relatively inexpensive. Then you can read for yourself in context. Also I would suggest that you start reading up on tile manufacturers installation guidelines and instruction for various products you may be interested in, as they take presidence, although they usually are in line with the standards. Here is a link that might be useful: TCNA Standards For Grout

A friend of mine sent me this recipe, and she makes them. She's never baked them in the microwave. I doubt if I would either because I wouldn't bake just one, but it might be worth a try. It sure would be a handy dough to have on hand. Refrigerator Applesauce Wheat Muffins Favorite Recipes --The Muffin Cookbook Mix up this batter and refrigerate in a tightly covered plastic bowl. If you cook for one, you can scoop out batter for one muffin at a time. Bake in the microwave oven for 30 to 50 seconds, or in conventional oven. 3/4 cup All-purpose Flour 1/2 cup Whole Wheat Flour 1/2 tsp cinnamon 1/4 tsp Salt 1 cup Quick-cooking Rolled Oats 1/2 cup Packed Brown Sugar 1 tsp Baking Powder 1/2 tsp Baking Soda 3/4 cup Buttermilk 1/4 cup Applesauce 1/4 cup Vegetable Oil 1 egg, beaten 1/4 cup Raisins Directions: In large bowl, combine flours, oats, brown sugar, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon and salt. In small bowl, combine buttermilk, applesauce, oil and egg until blended. Stir into flour mixture just until moistened. Fold in raisins. Cover and refrigerate overnight or up to 10 days. Microwave: Line 6 microwavable muffin-pan cups with double paper liners. Spoon batter into each cup filling 1/2 full. Microwave at HIGH (100%) power, 3 to 3 1/2 minutes or until wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean. Rotate dish 1/2 turn halfway thru cooking. Let stand 5 minutes. Remove from pan. Repeat procedure. For last 3 muffins, line 3 muffin cups with double paper liners. Microwave at HIGH 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. Let stand 5 minutes. Remove from pan. Makes about 15 muffins. Conventional: Preheat oven to 400 F. Grease or paper-line 12 (2 1/2 inch) muffin cups. Spoon batter into cups. Bake 18 to 20 minutes or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean Makes 12 muffins. Note: Have never cooked in the Microwave

Thank you Marsha I will check out the web link you posted. I think I will not use an adhesive or a 2nd poly batting. Another good quilting friend on FB said if you use too much spray adhesive it can gum up your hand-quilting needle. And I really don't want the smell of glue in the middle of this quilt. And I think if I use 2 battings that it will be so thick that my bottom stitches won't look nice. I think if I use the 80/20 cot/poly batting that I bought yesterday on sale for $30 at Hancocks that it will be easy to quilt through. Spoke with my mom on the phone earlier in the week and she strongly said that she does not want a heavy quilt. Mom wants to be able to use the quilt in the summer too, all year round, so am thinking if I added flannel that it would be too warm and make it harder to dry. We live in Louisiana and is a very high humidity state, and I don't want a quilt that will still be damp when removed from the drier that could mold. I think I am talking myself into just using the 80/20 batting and dad will just have to love it for its colors and pattern. When I hand-quilt it, since it is already a busy pattern I think I may just be doing utilitarian hand stitching on it outlining the seams/colors in each block - I think that is kind of what ya'll are calling "stitch in the ditch" - I don't usually quilt directly on top of the seams, but rather about a 1/4" to the side of existing seams in the blocks. I know I have enough fabric 9 yards of forest green to do the backing. I think I will use the white floral print for the 6" border around all sides of the quilt, and then do a Leah Day binding in forest green or country blue - will have to see which one I have the most fabric of after I sew the backing together. Thank you all for your feedback and input, I really appreciate it bunches! Best to you and thanks bunches, Sandra This post was edited by quiltingfox on Thu, Apr 4, 13 at 14:18