Jim, I purchased the "ribbon lighting" for the inside of two kitchen cabinets with glass fronts. I have it partially hooked up and I can see that it will work well and will not be seen when I place it around the inside edge of the cabinet opening. I don't know about other commercial options, but I think your idea would work just fine. I would guess that other commercial options would also be more expensive than the method you are thinking of using. Placing the ribbon on conduit so you could adjust the aim by moving the conduit seems like a very good idea to me, and I assume that you plan on placing the conduit on either side of the 36" wide stained glass, behind the "frame" that will be built so that you do not see the beams of LED light unless you are at an extreme angle to the stained glass. The question is whether you want it to be dimmable or not. Sounds like you are going to get the super bright ribbon, which is probably what you need for stained glass. If the light ended up being too bright, the ability to dim would solve this issue. However, being able to dim the light will cost you more (because dimmable transformers cost more and you need to add the cost of the dimmer), but give you more flexibility in how the stained glass looks. If you decide to dim, be careful to find a dimmer that mates perfectly with your transformer and lights so that you do not get any flickering, like I have experienced with my project. Good luck and let everyone know (post photo) of how it turns out.

That's a beautiful paint color and I can see why you want to use it. I do not think it will clash with your pretty stained glass pieces, but will harmonize with the brown tones nicely. The walls don't need to "match" the glass pieces anyway. Now you've got me thinking about this color for my powder room! I really like it. By the way, you didn't ask, but have you considered hanging your lovely stained glass pieces by attaching hooks to the inside of the upper window frame? Looks like the pieces have rings attached that could then just go right over the hooks, creating a cleaner, more streamlined look to the arrangement. Just a thought.

@Beth, it only takes one slip, to make the case. I have worked for years as a nurse. I have worked in the OR years ago. Many freak accidents would come through. Very difficult injuries. When you say "how did our ancestors survive the 20th century??", my response is that many survived with debilitating injuries, like missing fingers, arms, legs, hearing lose, etc. Old farm machinery is the worst for safety. I live in farm country. When you redo the shower, put a grab bar of 2 in there if you can. If you open the walls, block it for grab bars. If the tile is staying in place, find the studs to mount the grab bars. Grab bars should be in all bathrooms IMO.

Hi there, I installed this metal rail and I think I made a mistake. It has to be replaced because it’s too short but now that I see it, I’m wondering if I should switch to a glass rail. or switch to a rail with no center post, like this one? Unfortunately I already have 12 holes in the floor so a 3rd option is to keep the 3 floor plates and to remove the center post in the new design. This would allow the b rail to be closer to the ground. Sorta like this; since this rail is shorter than code requirements, I still have option to change my mind for the next day or so I would love to have any feednack that you have... also, If you like the rail as is, please let me know ASAP. this is also an option! Thanks!!