You can make it, but it won't be very effective. Only SOME plants can absorb an appreciable amount of nutrients by way of a foliar pathway. The nutrients they DO absorb need to be in ionic form, and organic preparations like fish and seaweed emulsions are very heavy in organic molecules which cannot be absorbed and very weak in nutrients in ionic form. Also, cultural conditions on leaf surfaces are generally not conducive to further breakdown of organic molecules into ionic form. The good news is it won't hurt anything (as long as you don't mix it too strong) & the organic molecules will eventually be washed from leaf surfaces where they will end up in the soil to eventually be broken down by soil biota into nutrients the plant CAN use. Weak doses of soluble fertilizers are far more effective at providing nutrients via foliar pathways. Remember too, that there is no good reason to foliar feed unless there is a recognized nutritional deficiency and you're trying to temporarily alleviate it. The soil to root path Mother Nature designed is much more effective at supplying necessary nutrition for nearly ALL the plants we would be discussing on this forum. You can't force-feed a plant, and common hort sense says you shouldn't try. ;o) Al

House guests, so sorry for late reply: I've been foliar feeding with seaweed extract, and not watering (soil wet enough) and the leaves are greening up a bit, could be the soil was waterlogged, or iron in the seaweed or that it's been warmer-probably the last. I'll definately try the vinegar solution, but I know the soil itself is well buffered, so I don't expect much of a pH change from watering it, but I will try (when I next water). A nursuryman told me that we could pour pure muratic acid on our soils and the pH would bounce right back. But maybe it'll help long enough to get nutrients into the roots. I don't think our water is alkaline, I did pH test it a while ago. Username_5 Don't you figure that an acidic shock with 'iron and soil acidifier' would kill a good bit of the current alkaline-lovin microherd leaving the survivors to repopulate and in the meantime the soil depleated in microorganisms and so less able to provide nutrients to the plant? I agree in the long term that's gotta be the way to go though, just that I want a few tomatoes this year. Good to know it won't hurt worms-I like those guys and they all just moved in. Albert, I based my determination on a couple things, course I could be wrong: --Chlorosis is in new leaves and not on old growth. --This is the best site I've found which shows pictures of each different deficiency. Plant Physiology Online: Visual Symptoms of Nutrient Deficiency In Plants --Based on the pics, it most looks like the iron pic (but not as severe), the youngest leaves are showing chlorosis, not the older ones, and mostly at the center of the leaf stem. --Manganese "They develop a light chlorosis along with gray specks which elongate and coalesce, and eventually the entire leaf withers and dies"-I'm not seeing any grey, and chlorosis not all over the leaves, not speckled looking either. --Magnesium: "show advanced interveinal chlorosis, with necrosis developing in the highly chlorotic tissue" I don't see any necrosis, and not all over the leaves. Epsom salts (Magnesium sulfate) doesn't help either soil or foliar fed. --It's really common in our area and TX in general Hmm, thats a shame, I thought foliar feeding would work well. Article about iron chlorosis in texas that recommends foliar feeding I read about some sort of iron chelated in sugar or something like that, instead of a synthetic (H)EDTA complex, but I don't know what the product is called or if its even on the market. Maybe I can just mix copperas-I can't find this though--with molasses + heat? Username_5: My personal goal with organics is to grow my home vegies, without synthetic or toxic pesticides, without causing a runoff problem or fish kills(I grew up on a lake in FL that had at least biannual fish kills resulting from runnoff and algal blooms that infected an entire lake chain whenever they fertilized/or whatever-I can't be even a small part of this if I can prevent it), while encouraging beneficials and soil health--all this to my best ability. I understand the chemical deffinition of organic/inorganic I ment organic with respect to the above.

History: Seed was sown January~ish. I got the seeds from the last seed swap that was held here from pepperdave. Went into the greenhouse early-mid March. What is it: The seeds were labeled as chocolate ghost but it is producing red pods for me, so maybe some sort of cross or a different phenotype that decided to show itself. The pods are also a whole lot gnarlier than your normal ghost. Honestly to me they look like a choco ghost but red. Definitely no complaints though!! I mean... Look at that thing! Why I think it became a beast: Good soil, dirt is the name of our game, whether we grow organically or not, we talk about it for months and try to improve it every year. I used a few applications of worm tea (no foliar feeding, just around the base, and brewed, not drippings from the worm bin). Before planting I amended the soil with compost and a good bit of rabbit manure (my dad raises them so I have a nearly endless supply of it). Fruit production: I've been pulling 10-15 every week or two, but with last weeks slightly cooler temps, I noticed a huge pod set that I will have to figure out what to do with in a bit. Training and athletics: Really good grow lights and strong legs

I foliar feed all the time. I have a 55 gallon barrel I keep in my backyard just for the purpose . I alternate several times a week what fertilizer I use. Maybe one time I will put half a cup of potasium nitrate in 55 gallons of water and water my plants with a regular watering can I just dip into the barrel to fill it up. Next time I will use just regular water from a hose to water my plants. Then after that I will use something else like zinc chelate. then regular water again. Then I will use half a cup of epsom salts in 55 gallons of water. Then alternate with regular plain water the next watering. Then a half a cup of ammonium phosphate in 55 gallons of water. I will now be switching to mostly urea as my plants already have enough phosphorus and potassium. The California master gardeners handbook says for most California soils the only nutrients you really need to add are nitrogen and zinc. You should see the plants take off when you give them a dose of zinc. I also have a two inch layer of horse manure/wood shavings compost surrounding all my plants and a six inch layer surrounding all my fruit trees, so I suppose when I water them the water filtering through the compost turns into compost tea. I also used to use Cal-Nitro which was a mixture of ammonium nitrate, magnesium nitrate, and dolomite lime in my solutions, but I ran out of it. You can't buy pure ammonium nitrate anymore because they are afraid you will make a bomb out of it. But they still sell potassium nitrate which you can make gun powder out of. Go figure.