Thanks. I found the instruction sheet and called the barn door hardware supplier. I have a 32" single barn door. The windows & door subcontractor who ordered the hardware should have ordered a 5'4" long track; instead they ordered a standard 6' length. I was unhappy about the aesthetics of the track extending beyond the door, but didn't realize that it affected the functionality. I thought that the bottom hardware would "stop" the door. They ordered black hardware without asking me if I would prefer stainless steel. The ss tracks have little screws for moving the door stop. The tracks in black finish require putting an extra hole and bolt through the track to move the stop. The barn door hardware supplier recommends the "T" guide over a "C" or "U" guide, as it's less visible. In order to use the "T" guide, I'll need my cabinet guy to put a groove in the bottom of the door he made and then I need to move the stop on the top track. Options for moving the door stop on the top track: 1) Replace the 6' black track with a 5'4" track in stainless steel and place the door stop in correct position at installation site. Stainless would match my decor better; I don't have anything else in ORB. 2) Replace the 6' black track with a similar 5'4" track and hope that the door stop ends up in the correct position 3) Keep the 6' track and cut a hole through it to install an extra bolt for the door stop. The company does not sell extra bolts - would need to find something that matches. 4) Wait for availability of a door stop that does not need a bolt to put it into place

The door slab can be used for the barn door, but you'll want to remove the hinges and patch/paint them. The knobs could be left on, but realize that they'll prevent the doors from opening the full width of the opening (may not matter to you). And you'll have the latch mechanism that will be extraneous. Here's a photo of a barn door setup we used between a bedroom and bath. We still had normal molding (casing and baseboard), so that wouldn't need to be removed. Your doors will just cover the opening (like they do now) without any overlap. Also, the door jamb will have mortises to full in (where hinges were), an extra piece of wood in the center of the door jamb (don't know the name) that doesn't exist for wall openings without doors. Those could be removed. As long as the above don't bother you, it can certainly be done.

"I went to work in an office that had a pocket door that never worked right because someone had driven nails into it at some point and it was never the same after" (palimpsest) Yes. This happened to us when DH nailed the baseboard on the wall between the laundry and kitchen. The door came off track. When we renovate I will replace or remove. However, this was builder grade. On our extension I added three pocket doors. The one I had put in for the powder room is a solid core door, not thinner than most doors, as I wanted as much sound-dampening as possible with such a device. We used Johnson Hardware - not the home depot variety which runs $ 40 or so, but commercial grade. Look at the Johnson site under 1500 Commercial Grade and you will also find non-standard size frames (door max thickness 1 3/4"). Use a good carpenter.

I purchased this Restoration Hardware 36" Hutton vanity and had it in a guest bathroom that was used mostly as a powder room on a fairly regular basis. The vanity was beautiful and the marble top was thick and gorgeous and honed instead of the typical polished. Unfortunately within a few months the doors warped even though we never showered in the room and maybe bathed in the tub once a week at most. Restoration Hardware was good about sending repair people and replacement doors, but even the replacement doors were warped. If I set the doors on a flat surface, they wouldn't lay flat. The repair people they sent (local companies) were frustratingly incompetent. The frame was constructed nicely but the doors were a big problem. For another bathroom we purchased this Water Creation Madison 60" vanity but we only used it for a few months before we sold the house. It seemed only slight less well constructed and was significantly less expensive than the 72" RH version. We could only fit a 60" so the RH option was out anyway. The marble was a nice solid piece and equally thick, but it was polished which I liked less. Overall I felt like the Restoration Hardware vanity was only slightly better quality than the Water Creation vanity. When I've looked at Pottery Barn vanities in the stores, I have been less impressed with their marble tops which seemed to be thin. Hope that helps some.