Does a Quality Toaster Exist? Under $60?
10 years ago
last modified: 10 years ago
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Are there any reliable/decent quality gas ranges for under 3K?
Comments (7)Hoss feathers, Hollysprings. Many of us have ovens that have both convection and no convection, yet we don't use convection all the time, and stuff still comes out great, (without the convection). I've cooked things both ways, meatloafs, stuffed bell peppers, spaghetti pie, (No cookies thou)and I would be hard pressed to tell which was baked which way. In fact I have a hard time to get the wife to use the convection in the Elux oven, even thou we've had it over 5 years now, She was just used to her old oven in the range and things came out great and it didn't have convection. There does seem to be a particular problem with the GE ovens thou, especially without convection, did you Note Rhome's Psycadellic pizza that she cooked in her GE oven? I suspects she has no such problems with her Wolf now regardless of whether she chooses convection or not! Gary...See Moredoes quality furniture exist?
Comments (8)Yes, in a nice high end consignment shop! Ha!! Is there a RITZY town near you with a higher income bracket? If so, look for furniture consignment shops in that area for REAL wood furniture. There are two shops near me and both have some really nice all wood furniture. I seldom get any used furniture with fabric on it unless I know where it comes from. But with today's prices, it would be better to recover and put in new cushions if the wood furniture is in good condition. My neighbor bought a new bedroom set from a nice local furniture store and got into a jam on the delivery time. So I said I would help and be there when the delivery guy came. Well... the delivery guys dropped the head board in the driveway and a poster knob fell off the head board. It was WHITE PLASTIC under a thin coat of pecan color wood or something that looked like wood. I was shocked as it was a nice furniture store and she paid around $3,000. for the bedroom set. They also scratched one of the night stands and there was WHITE under that... and when I took a closer look, I made a list of each little thingy wrong. So this el cheapo PLASTIC is under some of that wood in the new stores. I thought about getting a new set as I want to go from a King to a Queen but I will NEVER give up my nice all wood bedroom set if PLASTIC wood is what they are selling now days. Old English scratch remover and I are best friends. I was the delivery guys worst nightmare. :) I had a long list of every tiny mark and insisted they mark it all on the receipt. Ha! Ha! I pick out every little mark, scratch, the loose ill fitting door and the two drawers and did not nicely slide. Then I saw he was not putting all the screws in the bed frame and asked WHY... so they got more screws from their truck. Duh! The set looks very nice... a pecan color... sort of a bamboo flavor design... King bed, 2 night stands, l long double dresser and one high boy with room to insert a med. size TV and a couple of drawers under that... all for around $3,100. including a 10% off sale. I have not bought furniture in a while, so I had no idea they were using PLASTIC under a lot of that new furniture. My neighbor said a new all WOOD set would be around $8,000. for the same type of pieces and that was out of their price range....See MoreNew radiant heat under existing wood floors?
Comments (4). If your flooring guy won't "bless" radiant heat with wood floors, find another guy to do it. Wood expansion / contraction is with humidity, very little expansion / contraction with temperature. Besides, if you think about it, the floor really doesn't get any warmer than it would on a hot summer day. Floor should never exceed MAYBE 85 deg F. I've got nothing BUT hardwood flooring and radiant heat throughout; and no problems of any kind after 9 years. Some of it's even maple; which tends to do more expansion / contraction with humidity than oak and others. I've got 3/4" plywood subfloor beneath it; and used aluminum plates under the subfloor. Works VERY well, I'm in central New York state where it gets COLD in winter . . . how well yours performs will depend greatly on how well insulated your place is. The rumor that radiant heat will "cook" and dry out hardwood flooring just won't die . . . . . . Bob...See MoreAdding 60 AMP breaker to existing box...
Comments (18)If you decide on a three-wire service, then I believe you'll need to run 2-2-2, not 2-2-4. A true equipment ground--not a neutral--can be a size lower (#4), but I don't believe that's the case when neutral and ground are combined. [Since you'll have more than six breakers, I'm guessing that a good number of the circuits will be 120V. As Brick noted, if you had only 240V loads, no neutral would be needed at all, but that doesn't seem to be the case here, and usually isn't with multiple-circuit outbuildings.] I know for certain that the three-wire service you're proposing would not fly in my county, but that is because local restrictions here (not necessarily the NEC) won't allow it. (My jursidiction doesn't buy into the "no other connections" exception for 240/120V service.) Perhaps they figure that sooner or later someone's going to run a phone line or intercom or water pipe, and anything like that--any other connection!--instantly puts the wiring out of code. I can't speak for your area, of course, but that begs the question of whether you plan to pull a permit and have this installation inspected. In any event, it might be a good idea to consult with your AHJ to verify that your plan meets local code. For a variety of reasons--not least the flexibility of adding things in the future--you really might be better off with four-wire service (2-2-2-4). As noted above, you'll probably need 2 ground rods driven at least 6' apart. While it is true that one will suffice if it can be demonstrated to have a resistance of 25 ohms or less, don't bank on that. I've put in three ground rods in the past six months in three different states (Virginia, Maine and California) and none of the three passed the 25 ohm test, but that depends upon local soil conditions, moisture etc. at any given time. Use #6 wire for the ground connection and avoid any splices! (That's one of the problems with adding a second rod "after the fact".) I've also run into the problem of not being able to find subpanel "main" breakers under 100amps with the code-required lockdown feature. Keep in mind that you can use a larger breaker there (i.e., 100amps) because it is serving simply as a disconnect rather than primary overcurrent protection for the wiring and your box is rated at 125A. With #2 wire coming in, it'll probably fit easier into a 100A breaker as well. The one slight disadvantage is that if the "main" does trip, it'll be the one in the house not the outbuilding. But this is not something that should be happening often. (We hope!) Just out of curiosity, how long will the service wiring run be? I ask that because you might want to price #4 (or possibly even #6) copper instead of #2/AL for the sake of comparison, if you haven't already. There's no question that #2/AL will do the job (unless it is an inordinately long run), but #4/CU (with #6/CU ground) would be a good bit easier to pull and work with. Still, I know that copper's gotten very expensive in recent years, so YMMV....See More- 10 years ago
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