First Moro Blood Oranges
PKG
8 years ago
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PKG
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Moro Blood Orange
Comments (24)Woodrok; I have a different take. If you had a real cold winter, lower teens, I would not be at all surprised if Moro does not bloom. Blood oranges have had more freeze damage in the Harris County (Houston) Master Gardeners orchard than regular oranges. If your tree has been in a pot for a long time it is not unusual for it to skip bearing and have rank growth for several years after being put into the ground. Souf; I think this business about phosphorous on citrus trees generally does more harm than good. Most of the best citrus fertilizers have 3-1-2 proportions for N-P-K. The scion variety seldom determins how you fertilize. That is more a function of the rootstock. If you have trifoliate or one of its hybrids for a rootstock, high phosphorous is usually harmeful in that it often makes minor and micronutrients highly insoluble and you get chlorotic trees in anything but ideal pH soils. Example: Iron phosphate is almost inert. Meaning it just lays there. That also goes for manganese and zinc and especially for moly. Citrus trees are not tomato plants. A. They don't need high phosphate. Mulching with a good non-wood or non-bark mulch will provide more P and micros than you need. Best use mulch from twigs and a little pine needles. B. If your pH isn't correct work on that. It will release the nutrients already in the soil. C. Check your water too! If you have an old farmed out or deep sandy soil you may need a little extra phosphorous, but just a tiny bit more. If you have heavy clay, you probably have more than enough....See MoreThinned my Moro blood orange...
Comments (3)Josh..lol.....I thought of the same thing..Did you pull off the good fruit that was going to hang on? Ha! Looking real good pal....I remember when you first purchased that tree and trying to decide what you were going to get. Then thinking it was never going to flower, let alone fruit. then the heat, rains, winds, and animals,...That is just awesome that it has come this far in a pot! It seems John had some encouraging words for you! That is good to hear. I am really excited for you. Please let us see when they mature and ripen for you. How about a pic of the finished product, whether you used it in a drink or just peel and eat it? Have a great day guys. The mid 90's here today with dew point into the 70's..Very muggy! Mike...See Moremoro blood orange - all leaves are yellow
Comments (31)Patty, the nitrogen in fertilizers can make the growing medium become either more acidic (lower the pH) or less acidic/more basic (raise the pH). There are three types of nitrogen used in fertilizers: ammoniacal nitrogen (NH4+), nitrate nitrogen (NO3-) and urea. Fertilizing with ammoniacal nitrogen causes the medium-pH to DECREASE (become MORE acid) because H+ (acidic protons) are secreted from the tree's roots. Urea is converted into ammoniacal nitrogen in the growing medium, and therefore can be thought of as another source of ammoniacal nitrogen. In contrast, fertilizing with a nitrate nitrogen fertilizer INCREASES medium-pH (becomes LESS acid/more caustic) because the tree's roots secrete bases (OH-). Stressbaby is correct in stating that 7 is a neutral pH. Numbers lower than 7 denotes an acid solution, and numbers grater than 7 denotes a basic solution. The pH scale is also logrithmic. So a potting soil with a pH of 6 is ten times more acidic than a potting soil of pH 7. A potting soil with a pH of 5 is ten times more acid than a potting soil of pH 6, and 100 times more acidic than a potting soil of pH 7. A potting soil with a pH of 4 is ten times more acid than a potting soil with a pH of 5, and a 100 times more acid than a pH of 6 and 1000 times more acidic than a potting soil with a PH of 7. An so no and so on. Citrus will ALWAYS take up nutrients in a 5-1-3 ratio no matter what formulation you give them. Much more important than what type of fertilze to use for flower fruit set is an ample supply of water. Water is the prerequisite for ALL STAGES of fruit development. Water stress is particularly dangerous during fruit set, leading to a massive drop of fruitlets. Increase in size and juice content are also largely dependent upon the availability of water. So at bloom and fruit set, keep the moisture level of the growing medium up. This is where a well draining, lite aerable "soil" that at the same time retains a higher amount of water, such as CHC's, becomes important. Nutrition from fertilizing is important as well. Potassium plays a special role in fruit development. I would recomend a fertilization with a fertilizer formula higher in nitrogen and potassium, such as a fertilizer with a 5-1-3 ratio, or something more or less close. I also give my trees a nitrogen/potassium foliar spray, using Potassium Nitrate, a month before bloom and again a month after fruit set. Take care. - Millet...See MoreMoro blood orange planted 1/8/2017
Comments (58)Annual update on my Moro Blood Orange. For some reason last year I posted it had only been in ground for 2 years but in fact I planted this tree in January 2017 so it’s actually been in ground for 4 years this year. It’s bearing a lot of fruit this season, maybe 50-60 fruit in clusters. I’ve been pulling one fruit every couple weeks to taste them, they're getting progressively sweeter as the season goes on. I’ll take a pic of one of the fruit cut open the next time I pull one to taste test, but here is an overall photo of the tree holding fruit. Sideways pic of one of the clusters of fruit Evan...See MoreBarbJP 15-16/9B CA Bay Area
8 years agoPKG
8 years agoPKG
8 years agoBarbJP 15-16/9B CA Bay Area
8 years agoRyan
8 years agoPKG
8 years agoBarbJP 15-16/9B CA Bay Area
8 years agoPKG
8 years ago
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