My advice, and I've seeded a lot of KBG and other mixes, is this: don't put too much down. It's tough to tell when that is, but I'll try to give you a guideline or two: 1. Go get your toothbrush, and set it on the windowsill, with the bristles sticking upward. Imagine that that's your grass, three weeks after seeding. If your seed comes up that dense, every last grass plant will die, except for the ones on the outside edge, about fifty of them, that can actually get some sunlight. The rest will die. No sun. Too closely packed together. Too much seed got put down, too close together. You even got germination, eh? Too bad. They'll all die, except for the ones that are able to get some sun. So in this example, that's TOO CLOSE TOGETHER, or too much seed in one place. That's obviously one extreme. Let's go to the other extreme. If you plant just a handful of seed, to where the ground is barely speckled with some seed, but you can see all the dirt, with a few white flecks (the grass seed), it's too thin. Each plant will likely come up, and be healthy. But you'll have bare spots, even after the grass sprouts, and the fact that KBG spreads out (over a year) won't make up for the fact that you've got a thin lawn there, and could have done better. That's the other extreme. Here's how to find the middle, that successful middle ground. Keep in mind that this is an APPROACH, a way to get started. Bestlawn's advice, just above, is correct: if the seed maker wants 5lbs of seed to cover about 2000 sq feet, you should measure out 2000 sq ft, and decide that that package will be fully used, in that staked out area. But here's how to get started. You, or somebody in your family, enjoys fried eggs. More than that, you or they enjoy pepper on those eggs. Not scrambled, but fried, over easy. When you put pepper on those eggs, you don't DUMP the pepper, you sprinkle it, moving the pepper shaker, so that a nice, evenly distributed amount of pepper is all over the eggs. You look at it. If there isn't enough pepper, you sprinkle it again, very evenly, perhaps even more lightly, but you're adding more pepper, and when you're done (with that application), you'll look at it. Again. If you moved too fast, you'll even more lightly sprinkle the pepper, evenly, and then you'll look at those eggs, until the pepper is JUST RIGHT, as Goldilocks said. Here's the deal. Don't tell me you don't like pepper on eggs. Somebody does, in your family, or circle of friends. Fix the eggs. I want you to, with the pepper eater at your side, lightly, lightly, sprinkle the pepper on those eggs, evenly, to the VERY POINT, that the pepper eater says "NO. No. That's too much, and I'm not eating those eggs. I could have lived with it, last time, but this last bit you put on there, hey, it's just too much, and I wouldn't eat the eggs. I'm not going to do it. Gimme some new eggs, or take these away." That's it. Take a very good look at those eggs. With evenly distributed black spots, the pepper, and now imagine that that's your dirt, with a bunch of evenly distributed white spots (your KBG seed), at about the same density. Nicely, evenly spaced, but you're only going to apply it up to a certain point. That's it. YOu're there. You're done. Move along, and seed somewhere else.

Sarracenias take several years to grow noticably larger after the first year. If they are still alive, your doing a great job. I have had some Sarracenia hybrids that I germinated this January/February and they are still tiny too. The first year, dont expect them to grow more than an inch tall if that. Next year, they will grow maybe a couple inches in size at most. The third year, they will about double their size again. You should have adult plants in about 4-5 years if all goes as planned. You might not even be able to tell what species they are for a couple years if they are surprise seeds like I got. Sarracenia purpurea are one of the slowest growing Sarracenias, so patience is key.

It sounds like you did almost everything right, except possibly storing seeds in the refridgerator in paper envelopes. Once upon a time it would not have been a problem, but with todays self defrosting models you have dried the seeds to death in the paper envelopes. You can dehydrate things quite nicely and in a hurry in todays models. In the future put them in plastic before putting them into cold storage. You mention them drying for 3 to 6 seeks, this is a good thing in my opinion because the seeds are well dried that way. I made the mistake of transfering fresh seeds to plastic ziplocs on years and the results were not very pretty. I had quite a few sprout, mould, and die because I skipped the drying process. On the other hand dry seeds will take longer to germinate since they need to rehydrate. I don't soak seeds, but I plant them in pots and keep them moist until I have germination. DO NOT use peat pots they dry out too fast, every surface of the acts as a wick. Fresh seed will normaly germinate faster than seed that has been dried well and stored. I have had good germination in seed that was 5 years old, but it did not germinate quickly. I plant between 1500 and 3000 seeds each year, and I see a wide margin in germination. I have had seed germinate in as few as 7 days, and in more than 60! Both of those numbers are extremes, normally 14 to 21 days is more the norm. I have noticed that older seeds take longer to germinate, I think it is because they are drier, even if they are stored in ziploc bags, they still continue to lose moisture. Patience is the key, I once left some pots where no germination had occured sit over the winter, and the following spring I was rewarded with a few seedlings. Another time I planted a second group of seeds in a pot I had already used and was convinced that nothing was going to grow in the first seeds were Tets, the second Dips, in about 2 weeks I had 8 seedlings in a pot that I had planted 5 seeds in. I am just guessing but that post might not have been getting enough water the first time around. 63 degrees is a little cold, I do think heat and/or more time would have made a difference. I guess the key is to not give up too quickly

I read this thread and kind of marvel. The effort people expend to grow plants in a hostile climate. I bought a $5 sago 40 years ago when I bought my house, it is over six feet tall The male flower is (like) two feet long, every year for at least the past 15 years. A flush consists of at least two dozen fronds , (or leaves) if you prefer. I have successfully raised and given away probably three dozen pups broken off from the parent plant. Most survive, maybe 80% but some don't. It gets cold here, we are at 1700 ft. elevation and freezes some years but I have never had a sago show damage from frost. Plumaria, that's another crap shoot, but the sagos do very well here. I have managed to keep twenty pups that are well established and in the ground. In other words, this climate is very agreeable for sagos and they are common all around here, seems like everybody has at least one? I'm not rubbing your nose in it here; I salute the effort to grow (what is almost a tropical), in a climate which is not suitable. Good luck. LB PS no coconut palms here, lots of King Palms but by far the most popular and numerous palm in this area is the Queen.