To answer your basic question: No, there is no practical reason to replace an appliance that works. DWs are all standard size, so unless you're adding flooring that would change the height of the DW space, you can wait as long as you want. If, like olivertwist, you're afraid it would scar the floors, that's a good consideration, but there are plenty of materials to lay on a floor to prevent scuffs. If the new flooring actually is higher in front of the DW (boxing it in by a fraction of an inch), then yes, that can cause problems, which is why many people install flooring under the cabinets and DW so it's all one level. Also, some people want all appliances to match, which is a legitimate reason to switch them out, but not a "practical" one.

jennifereckle75, we sell a lot on Craigslist (furniture, large machinery, cars, you name it!) Might I suggest you visit your local area CL, look at the prices for cabinets such as the one you have (and keep an eye on what sells, what doesn't), consider the condition and age, and then you can make a more informed decision on what you might be able to sell it for. We are re-purposing our old laminate cabinets to use mostly in the garage (base cabinets, some uppers) and using a few uppers in the utility room as well - I intend to add wood trim around those, chalk paint (smooth with satin poly), and update the fixtures. After the reno, our neighbor wants our fridge, and we hope to pretty much give away our range and DW on CL here.

First off, I'm a function-over-form gal! So, keep this in mind as you read on... Since there is a possibility that you may stay longer than a couple of years, I would think about remodeling with what will please you...and, IMHO, I think a combination of function (#1) and form (#2) would please you best. Cabinets: Have you looked at IKEA cabinets? They are very affordable and many people here really like them and have found they're not too difficult to DIY the install. They're actually designed, I think, with DIY in mind. Even if you don't like the door styles, Scherr's has many different styles and now is able to drill for IKEA cabinets. Cost is a fraction of the cost of most stock & semi-custom cabinets. Style: I think if you use wood doors and a simple but classic door style (shaker or simple raised panel--similar to what you like in Harbor) you will find they will remain current enough for resale a few years down the road. Materials: Wood for doors. For Countertops, possibly granite (tiles, prefab, or a low-cost "pattern" like Uba Tuba) or a higher-end laminate would work in your area. Stay away from ceramic/porcelain tile. I think that's already dated and many people would look at it and think it would be hard to keep clean (I know I would) Appliances can be either stainless steel or white. I think both are acceptable in mid-to-high end kitchens. I'd probably stay away from black b/c they are more difficult to keep clean than SS, at least I think so (I have a black cooktop & it's the most difficult item in my kitchen to keep looking clean). For a sink I would stick with either stainless steel or Silgranit. I'd let cost & form drive that decision. (For SS, check out Galaxy Tool Supply's Ticor sinks w/the free sink grids (http://www.galaxytoolsupply.com/category_s/58.htm).) For faucet, I would go w/a pullout or pull down with or without a soap dispenser...I think a soap dispenser is a nice-to-have, but I don't think it will necessarily add to resale...but if you want one, go for it. As to finish, chrome is fine or go with a SS or brushed chrome or SS. I'm not sure if there's a price difference b/w brushed chrome and something like brushed nickel or oil rubbed bronze. Cabinet Hardware: Hardware doesn't have to be high-priced. Check out Home Depot or Lowes for lower priced but still very nice hardware. Look at finishes such as iron or pewter. Stay away from black if it's a painted finish...the paint will eventually chip on your most-used handles/pulls. Refrigerator: Your refrigerator will look best if it is cabinet depth and enclosed so it looks built-in. To achieve this look, install a 3/4" finished end panel on each side of the refrigerator, approx 27" deep--deep enough to cover the carcass (but not the door). Put a full-depth cabinet over the refrigerator to further make it look built in. If you cannot get a full-depth over-the-refrigerator cabinet, then get a regular...

Well the latest quote is in and it's the best so far. It's for two America Standard Freedom 95, two stage, variable speed furnaces. A 60k BTU system for the rental unit ( it gets a $600 rebate after installation) and a 100kBTU unit ($300 rebate) for the larger upstairs apartment. The quotes include everything; permits, thermostats, hard wired CO detectors, and removal of old oil tanks. 60k BTU cost $5500 100k BTU cost $5900 I will get $900 in rebates so the total cost for the install is $10500 I talked to the contractor as I believed that the units were oversized. The furnaces are purchased from the gas supplier and are the ones approved for rebates. He said a single stage 40k BTU unit will be fine for the rental apartment, but American Standard does not make a 40k BTU two stage unit and the 60k BTU unit will cost the same after the $600 rebate and it will be quieter, cheaper to run and will keep the tenants a bit more comfortable. I could get a 40k BTU Carrier Performance 96, there's a $300k rebate on that. He says an 80k BTU unit would be ok for the upstairs two floor apartment as far as heating goes, but from experience he feels that the larger fan capacity of the 100 kBTU unit is needed to get the air up from the basement to the top floor.