how long should I wait to use hydroban after sealing joints with mesh and thin set? I am a little worried that putting the hydroban on too quickly after thin setting the joints and niche that it may stop the thin set from curing. I thin setted one joint between the durock, the corners around the bottom and sides of a window, my niche and where the tops/sides of the durock meets the green board (above and in front of my shower). I thin setted in the afternoon and then went home to eat and shower. I then went back to my other house and started to apply the hydro ban above these areas except for the ones that had not dried totally (mainly the gaps between the durock and green board). Can I apply another coat to these area and then the field tomorrow? I read this on the Laticrete web site...does this apply to the thin set mortar being used to seal the corners/joints/niche etc. ? I am thinking this is talking about a floor application and hoping not thin set. 9. Allow wet mortars/plasters (deck mud consistency) to cure for 72 hours at 70°F (21°C) prior to installing LATICRETE Wateright Floor N Wall Waterproofing & Crack Isolation. BTW my niche came out great so far...It is huge because one of my walls along the shower is 6" deep. Thanks, Steve

Amen, Glenn. I started when I was 12 helping Dad on weekends and evenings when Mom worked. At 15, I helped during evening weekends, and summer vacations (and getting paid!) when he went out on his own. At 17, I went to the Armstong School of Resilient Installation to learn all that I could, which was before certifications. They confirmed shool completions back then but didnt "certify" as they do now. All my life I have been taught on the job and Dad pulled me aside when other co-workers and his bosses did things inappropriately to save time and cut corners, telling me this isnt the way you should do this, but we do what we have to when we work for someone else. Every facet from pattern scribing inlaid resilient sheet in a room full of pipes and old radiators, all the way down to professionally and expertly installing vinyl/rubber cover base corners. Nothing was too big or too small to do right. At 21, me and Dad had a falling out in business. He had his own busienss now doign commercial and residential subcontract work and was becomming like so many others we laughed at and despised for doing shoddy work to make a buck, then I went out on my own. I am not maligning my Father. I love Him and he taught me pretty much evrything I know, but I couldnt do the work he was asking me to do anylonger when I knew it wasnt right. He had changed. Business had changed him. Money and time was becomming more important that job quality. Business certainly isnt easy, but a time comes when it's either right or its wrong, with little middle ground. Whhen professionals hit that crossroad, then take the wrong path, it changes them, and each time they elect that improper path, it makes the next crossroads easier and easier to take the wrong path, until the day comes that money and time means more than giving people who trust use with their work a professional job. I am an advocate of installer and buiness educataion no matter how they go about obtaining it, whether that be on the job, through a mentorship, union apprentiship, manufacturer or distributor training session, or certification. If certifications are the only way they can get proper training, they shoud go get it. Consumers need to step up and make a fuss when anything isnt exactly how they want it to be. We live in a low cost wallmart and home depot world, where as long as the price is right, they can live with almost anything. As an employer, I instill in my men and women the same installation and customer service values my Dad originally instilled in me, and I demand that on every job. I believe much of the talent has moved to the commercial spectrum too. Its where the money is at. Interesting you should say that (about commercial work getting the good men). When I left Dad, I went all commercial for about 10-11 years before we started opening up stores. Did alot of traveling and made alot of money. Now we bring those values and quality to the residential sector. In the end if something isnt done right, it doesnt matter why.

Thank you, Scott N!!! The culprit of my problem was the dislodged housing. Threaded or set screw? I was racking my brain because I could not find the screw using my phone in selfie mode to get a good view. With no screw in sight, I assumed my spout was threaded, so I gave it a twist, but I could rotate it only about an 1/8 turn. Luckily I didn't force it further. It was firm past the 1/8 rotation, and I didn't want to risk snapping the copper pipe, so I figured cutting off the housing was a safe experiment since I planned on replacing the spout anyhow. I cut around the circumference of the housing about 3 inches from the wall using a hack saw, being careful not to cut too deeply as not to touch the copper pipe inside. Once that was done, I used some metal snips to cut the housing (the portion closest to the wall) before peeling it off with some pliers. And low and behold, I found the set screw. As you can see in my second image, the screw was far misaligned from the space under the spout. Removal of the remaining parts was simple since I was then able to use an allen wrench to loosen the screw.

It only needs to be protected enough from water for you to be able to use it. Get some sheet vinyl. That’s about it. You can’t do anything else and not be over improving. A 1983 mobile home has depreciated to virtual nothingness, and whomever buys this will have expectations of either hunting camp use, or is buying it for the chassis and completely redoing everything.